What am I doing wrong?

[gnet158 10+ year member]

So I finally decided to “properly” terminate power to my positive battery terminal and purchase the following. I currently just have bear wire being pinched by the POS battery terminal bolt.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5783274590&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&rd=1

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5783277406&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&rd=1

They both arrive on Friday but I didn’t have time to install them until yesterday (Sunday). I disconnect the negative first, then the positive. I remove the OEM positive bold, screw in the new replacement bolt, strip back some new 8 gauge wire and insert it into the ring terminal. Screw the ring terminal into the top of the replacement positive battery bolt and connect the negative. I then go turn on my system and everything works just fine, the H/U, speakers, amp, and sub. I thought cool, that was pretty easy. Then I go to start my truck and I hear a click, everything’s DEAD! I wasn’t expecting that, so I disconnect the NEG and POS, check the amp fuse by the battery and it’s fine. I checked my connections and connect everything step by step only to find out that my car dies when I connect the 8-gauage wire to the ring connector. What’s going on?

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[tRiGgEr 5,000+ posts]

Is the 8 guage ran to a fuse then directly to the amp???

 

[gnet158 10+ year member]

Yes, going from the battery have ‘6 of 8-gauage power cable connected to a 60 amp fuse, then it’s a straight shot to the amp.

 

[tRiGgEr 5,000+ posts]

Hmmm. That is the strangest thing I have heard. It only happens when you connect the 8g wire from the amp to the battery... Is your alt working? It might have went out and the car is drawing from the battery. With the amp turning on may not be enough to turn over???

But then the battery would not last very long... What type of battery do you have? It may also not have enough juice to start the car and have the radio on simultaneously. How many CCA and what vehicle do you drive?

This is a strange one.

 

[gnet158 10+ year member]

Vehicle

2002 GMC Sierra with stock battery and alt.

I must have gotten a defective ring connector or something because everything works in it’s original configuration and I haven’t noticed the battery volts drop (always at 14 volts). So now it’s back to having the 8-gauage power wire sandwiched under the positive battery bolt.

If my alt wasn’t working I think my battery would be dead by now. But you may have a point, I remember my wife’s car doing the same thing and I had to replace the battery.

I’ve been running this setup for about a month now, I listen to my stereo for 30 minutes everyday during lunch and haven’t had a problem starting my truck.

If my battery is showing 14 volts when my truck is on do you think I should have my battery tested?

 

[tRiGgEr 5,000+ posts]

No need to test it if it remains a constant 14v. Only if you notice the voltage constantly droping.

At least switching back to the old way fixed the problem. Next time try to pick up a battery terminal with guage connectors. Somthing from stinger or the likes. They are 99.9% effective

 

[gnet158 10+ year member]

Isn’t that what I purchased? The battery terminal and ring connector are a set, the screw on the top of the battery terminal comes off and fits perfectly into the ring connector. Then all I do is tighten it. Can you show me what you’re talking about? Thanks again.

 

[tRiGgEr 5,000+ posts]

Never failed me

Good idea to upgrade your stock battery to a deep cycle or more powerfull starting battery. Like a redtop.

 

[gnet158 10+ year member]

Thanks again for all your help. I called Stinger and they couldn’t figure it out either. The guy I s/w told me to use a small RED terminal box next to the engine. He said that box is an accessory box that is before my trucks fuse box, he also said my ring connector will fit around the bold, I doubt it because I’ve seen that bold and it looks bigger. If not then all I’m out is about 1 1/2 hour and $20.