Very Unhappy Person

[Ridley 10+ year member]

Okay well... I was wrong this whole time. The protect light DOES come on.

How can it be overheating? It did it at night time with my air on. Could it be a faulty amp? Should I take it back and get a different brand? If so, can someone direct me to a different amp that can power my Pioneers on the http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/ website for around 200ish.

I know my sub amp overheats but thats only if I REALLY crank it and its 90 degrees outside.

Black car, raammat triple layer, 90 degrees = hotbox

Can't explain the comp amp tho...

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

He is running 800 watts rms TOTAL. His lights do not dim when he is playing full tilt. Only one of his amps is shutting off at a time, and it varies between the sub and highs amp.
Has to be a ground or short problem.

If the alternator were the problem, both amps would be shutting off.

800 watts not including efficiency losses. That alone would be about the entire output of his
So your logic tells you if its a short or a ground problem, it makes sense it would shut off one amp or the other, altering which one? How exactly would a short in a circuit cause this? A common ground... maybe, but not as likely here due to the time frame. A low voltage problem that would exist from an inadequate charging system would likely push the subwoofer amp into protection mode first, as it would be the largest draw on the system. But as system voltage continued to decrease, which ever amp hit a peak demand first could draw the system voltage down to an unacceptable level. Viola, one or the other amp could shut off, starting with the subwoofer amp showing the first signs. Sound familiar? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

A quick check with a DMM should give a good idea if my theory is correct. The batt, with the engine off, should be sitting around 13-13.5 volts. Can someone loan this guy a DMM? *shrug*

 

[Ridley 10+ year member]

I do have a DMM. I checked the battery. With it off, I'm hitting around 13-14. When I turn my car on and idle it with my system blasting, it stays at 13-14 and doesn't get any lower.

Also...

I noticed that I do get the protect light. I just couldn't notice it when it was light out.

I've been reading the instructions... They state this...

The system will shut down the amp and turn on the protect led until resetting the headunit because of two reasons-

1. A short circuit on the loudspeaker leads.

2. An internal amp fault that causes a DC offset on the loudspeaker output.

It says that if my amp overheats, it will shut down completely until cooled. The amp never completely shut off... just turned off the speakers.

 

[jfink 10+ year member]

ridley needs to take it up to the shop that installed it and let them fix it or get some money back for a screwed install. doesn't matter what the problem is "professionals"(

 

[Ridley 10+ year member]

150A alt

If I decided to get this if power is really my issue, would this be all I need?

 

[Fiercetimbo17 10+ year member]

You need to find out why your amp is in protect, get you dmm and measure the voltage on the power and remote wire while the amp is in protect.

Also measure the voltage between your amp ground and the neg battery terminal and report back please

 

[tonyroc14 10+ year member]

is it 14 guage power wire for the amp? or running to the speakers? If your getting a protect it could mean alot of things, over heating, short, running too much power through the system, putting too much strain on it(can be caused by bad gain setting, and wrong power wire size.) what do you mean the amp doesnt shut off only the speakers do?

and what the fuk are you waiting for? Why havent you brought it back and told them to fix it?

Also, your grounding seems to be an issue as well. Tell them to check everything. They built you a system to work, not to give you problems, and if it does give you problems they are obligated to fix it. Sounds like a really shody shop to me. **** i could have done a better install.

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/needpics.gif.edd6d28e76618c28c46f343991bcced5.gif

 

[SRim23 5,000+ posts]

i hate hearing stories about these "professional shops" ive got a honda civic, 80amp alt, running 1500rms with stinger batt and have no voltage drop problems or amps shutting off..... 800 rms and without trying to fix their screwup they want to sell him extra batts. what a joke.

if all that equip you posted on page one is correct why did they sell you an amp that does 150rms for 50rms speakers. doesnt seem safe to me.

the one time i had an amp that would get really hot, then go into protect it was cause i had a grounding issue. i had a common ground for 2 amps and a cap so i took advice from a friend i have that installs alot and shortened my grounds and had separate grounds per amp and never had the problem again.

did they even set the crossovers and gains on the amp? maybe his gains are set too high and hes overdriving the amp? maybe a combination of issues.

 

[Ridley 10+ year member]

They set all my stuff so I have no idea about that. I know that nothing is connect to the neg on the battery. Is that bad? I bought all of my parts online from items you guys recommended, Nutz just did the install.

 

[Ridley 10+ year member]

I thought the amp was okay if it was overpowering the speakers as long as the gain is turned down.

 

[x1le 10+ year member]

They set all my stuff so I have no idea about that. I know that nothing is connect to the neg on the battery. Is that bad?

Nothing should be connected to the negative battery terminal. It sounds to me like your gain setting on the amp is most likely too high. Look on the amp and find where it sais Gain or Input Sensitivity and try turning down that setting about a quarter of a turn and see if you still have the problem. Also make sure the Bass Boost setting is also turned all the way down.

 

[Ridley 10+ year member]

I have the DMM in front of me. What do I do to test the amp wires? DCV, ACV, DCA, Ohm, 10A, hFE or 2 other weird symbols? There are a few settings for each and I don't know what to look for. Is this with the car on or off and what numbers am I looking for.

 

[x1le 10+ year member]

is there anyway you could take a pic of the amp? It should plainly say Gain or Input Sensitivity and have a knob to turn with a screwdriver.

***Actually, give me one second.

** here is a pic -

One of those should say Input Sensitivity (the one farthest to the left I believe). Make sure it is not turned up all the way, and if it is turn it down about a quarter of a turn with a flathead screwdriver.

And if it turns out not to be the case I would not mess around with any of the wiring. Take it back to the shop and have them correct their mistakes.

 

[Ridley 10+ year member]

That is the sub amp. I am not having any issues with my sub amp at all. My comp amp, the Hifonics, is the one giving me the issue.

No, the sens is turned down a lot and same with the gain.

I checked the comp amp and nothing is cranked on there as well.

I'm taking it into the shop tomorrow at 3 so I'll see what's up.

Are you guys sure I'm only putting out 800w? The guy on the phone said they recommend a battery every 1000w.

 

[x1le 10+ year member]

Most likely a wiring issue then if the amps protect light is coming on.

Be sure to report back what happens when you take it back to the shop //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/thumbsup.gif.3287b36ca96645a13a43aff531f37f02.gif