A ca.com member requested I do a short write-up about Sonotube use in subwoofer builds. Firstly, I do not claim to be the end all, know all of Sonosubs so if there is something I missed, please feel free to add it to this thread.
A very brief history on Sonotube usage:
Sonotube builds really began to blossom when Dr. Hsu made a splash with his commercial Sonotube-based subs for home audio back in the late 80's. He took an otherwise simple design/build method and literally made a ton of money off it. The tubes were cheap, the assembly was fast and the result was a low-cost, extremely good sounding product that was aesthetically pleasing.
Fast forward to now and you will find many DIYers using Sonotubes in the construction of home theater subs. The advantages that Sonotubes have over the square box counterparts are:
- They are light weight
- They simplify a "box" design and build; Sonosub projects can be banged off in an afternoon
- Sonotube is widely available and comes in sizes 6 - 24" (may even be larger sizes but the biggest I've had is 24")
- Vibrations are dispersed evenly around the tube so internal bracing is not needed
- Finishing the tube is simple using coloured fabric or carpet of choice
Of course, there are downsides to using Sonotubes in sub building as well:
- You are limited to where you can place your driver
- Mounting of a port becomes problematic if you are not placing it at the end (but not impossible)
- Depending on the size/length, they can be quite clunky
- Length of port may be restricted because of overall tube length
- Placement in a vehicle can be an issue
- You may not like the looks of it
Constructing your Sonosub:
Sonotubes come in even number diameters, so if you have a 10" driver look into getting a 12" Sonotube; 12" driver, get a 14" tube, etc. Calculations for Sonotube volume are simple:
Cubic Foot Area = 3.14 x Tube Radius^2 x Tube Length in Inches / 1728
You can apply the same calculations if you intend on using a round port as well.
End Caps:
Many folks like to use two 3/4" (glued) layers of MDF for their end caps. They cut the first layer to fit inside the tube, and the second layer to cover the outside "lip" of the tube. The result is an end cap that provides sufficient baffle strength and inside area for gluing and sealing. The outside lip of the MDF can then be routed to provide a nice rounded finish if desired.
Remove the Wax Coating!
The inside of the Sonotube is covered with a thin plastic waxy film. Make sure to peal this film off prior to gluing your end caps. Don't make the mistake I did - the end cap popped off my first build because the glue couldn't adhere to the coating.
Ports:
Depending on your design requirements, you can make use of the smaller Sonotubes for ports. This too is a good cheap alternative to ABS or PVC piping. As mentioned there are various sizes available - the smaller ones usually come in a "6+" and "6 -" diameter; 6+ is usually about 6 1/4" while 6- is about 5 7/8". Make sure you verify these diameters when designing your ported Sonosub.
Further Reading and Sonosub Program:
Collo has an excellent website dedicated to all sorts of geeky stuff including Sonosubs. I recommend you check it out:
http://www.subwoofer-builder.com/index.htm
He has also created a program that will calculate everything for you. It is simple to understand and worth the download. You can pull it off his site or click the link below:
http://www.mach5audio.com/download/sonosub.exe
Hope this sheds some light on the subject.
Mark
A very brief history on Sonotube usage:
Sonotube builds really began to blossom when Dr. Hsu made a splash with his commercial Sonotube-based subs for home audio back in the late 80's. He took an otherwise simple design/build method and literally made a ton of money off it. The tubes were cheap, the assembly was fast and the result was a low-cost, extremely good sounding product that was aesthetically pleasing.
Fast forward to now and you will find many DIYers using Sonotubes in the construction of home theater subs. The advantages that Sonotubes have over the square box counterparts are:
- They are light weight
- They simplify a "box" design and build; Sonosub projects can be banged off in an afternoon
- Sonotube is widely available and comes in sizes 6 - 24" (may even be larger sizes but the biggest I've had is 24")
- Vibrations are dispersed evenly around the tube so internal bracing is not needed
- Finishing the tube is simple using coloured fabric or carpet of choice
Of course, there are downsides to using Sonotubes in sub building as well:
- You are limited to where you can place your driver
- Mounting of a port becomes problematic if you are not placing it at the end (but not impossible)
- Depending on the size/length, they can be quite clunky
- Length of port may be restricted because of overall tube length
- Placement in a vehicle can be an issue
- You may not like the looks of it
Constructing your Sonosub:
Sonotubes come in even number diameters, so if you have a 10" driver look into getting a 12" Sonotube; 12" driver, get a 14" tube, etc. Calculations for Sonotube volume are simple:
Cubic Foot Area = 3.14 x Tube Radius^2 x Tube Length in Inches / 1728
You can apply the same calculations if you intend on using a round port as well.
End Caps:
Many folks like to use two 3/4" (glued) layers of MDF for their end caps. They cut the first layer to fit inside the tube, and the second layer to cover the outside "lip" of the tube. The result is an end cap that provides sufficient baffle strength and inside area for gluing and sealing. The outside lip of the MDF can then be routed to provide a nice rounded finish if desired.
Remove the Wax Coating!
The inside of the Sonotube is covered with a thin plastic waxy film. Make sure to peal this film off prior to gluing your end caps. Don't make the mistake I did - the end cap popped off my first build because the glue couldn't adhere to the coating.
Ports:
Depending on your design requirements, you can make use of the smaller Sonotubes for ports. This too is a good cheap alternative to ABS or PVC piping. As mentioned there are various sizes available - the smaller ones usually come in a "6+" and "6 -" diameter; 6+ is usually about 6 1/4" while 6- is about 5 7/8". Make sure you verify these diameters when designing your ported Sonosub.
Further Reading and Sonosub Program:
Collo has an excellent website dedicated to all sorts of geeky stuff including Sonosubs. I recommend you check it out:
http://www.subwoofer-builder.com/index.htm
He has also created a program that will calculate everything for you. It is simple to understand and worth the download. You can pull it off his site or click the link below:
http://www.mach5audio.com/download/sonosub.exe
Hope this sheds some light on the subject.
Mark
