Trying to install new JVC deck no power.

[ColterDC 10+ year member]

I have this deck wired in and working now it was that small little blown fuse that i had to replace.

Awesome, glad to hear it //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

now I just have to find a place for the power wire to go through from the batt to the inside of the cab any ideas? and then a spot for the ground.

Not sure what kind of car you have, but typically the driver's side is better than passenger due to the heater being there. Worst case you might just need to drill a hole. Obviously triple check to make sure you're not drilling into anything.

In order to make a proper ground, check the stickied thread at the top of the General Discussion forum.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Thats some good news!! Happy to hear that the deck is working now,and after 2 weeks!! I bet your Ipod got some use??LOL.Well,in my 93 acura/honda,I ran my power wire on pass side just under the windshield wiper motor on the fire wall..I did a 97 honda in May..seems to be a good spot and it was same as my 93??Go figure??But its a rubber boot,and I cut an x and fed with my electrical fishtape..May need another person to help you do this..due to the carpet,and insulation.Its a tight spot under the dash of those cars,but seems to be almost the only spot.it will feed down under the fan blower,and it seems to seal fair without any moisture penetrating that I have noticed.I ran 4g and it took alot of ##***** to get it.yet, that firewall is cluttered with who knows what??My 90 Nissan 240 was the hardest car I have ever wired up..Ill never do another!!!Thats where I have ran power through.Someonelse may have a better location???Just be prepared to throw things,and #####** say things..Lol.. Good luck girl

 

[ColterDC 10+ year member]

My 90 Nissan 240 was the hardest car I have ever wired up

Must be a Nissan thing cause my wife had an 06 Altima and it took me forever and I finally ended up just running it under the car (That's the only time I've ever run a power line under a car, obviously very well strapped and protected)

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I also used the location of the spare tire bolt down to utilize a good grounding point as well.Seems to have worked just fine with a nut washer ring terminal and washer ,and nut with 4 or 8g wiring.8g should be just fine though:thumbupw:

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

ColterDC..It took me nearly 7hrs to run power,speaker,and 3sets of rcas,and remote,and by myself.My hands were chopped up all to hell,and i was screaming every nasty name known to man/women.To say..Ill never do another one brother..ROLL ON as they may??NEXT!! Straight up!!

 

[ColterDC 10+ year member]

Ah, the joy of car audio installs //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Yeah some cars are cake....others are exactly as you described.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Right??LOL:wallbash://content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wallbash.gif.1310150c49dd52e0fbe1813a0681e5c3.gif:wallbash://content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wallbash.gif.1310150c49dd52e0fbe1813a0681e5c3.gif I still have the car..Runs and look great.Sits in the drive way,and everytime i just look at it..brings me back man..Glad I ran the 4g and not the 8 though??//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/boink.gif.91933e72f927f2cefc79aff02573090c.gif

 

[ColterDC 10+ year member]

I should walk out and take a picture of the power wire in my mustang, talk about easy. Definately the easiest power run I've ever seen or done myself.

There was a unused stock grommet in a half inch round hole in almost the perfect place to run the power wire. I don't know why it's there, but it doesn't get easier than that.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Man..lucky you brother!!:applause:Nice man.Ya ..dont take a pic though ..something may end up at my 55inch???LOL!!

Yet Rachelle130..I would recommend to run a minimum of 4g supply wiring,and a fused dist block as well..for adds.Just a recommendation.

 

[Rachelle130 10+ year member]

hey ok i have a 99 honda civic dx coupe 2 dr. unfortunalty not standard //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif anyway i have 4 or 8guage (not entirely sure but its thick and red) running the power wire with a stinger inline fuse about 12 inc or less along the line from the batt (or will be eventually). I am almost wondering if i should go out there right now with a flashlight to see if i can see any light coming through from the inside while its shining at the firwall under the hood. On to one of the easiest installs had to be my 93 ford explorer there was a rubber knob i poked a hole through with a knife on the drivers side took about 5 mins to get it through..

 

[Rachelle130 10+ year member]

the amp is dual 600watt and each 12 inc is 850 watt sorry i dont know the RMS atm but should i get a cap? i talked to this guy at this audio place in the city he said i shouldnt i have to just try it out with what i have. or should i get a yellow top battery or just see how the car takes to it?

 

[Louisiana_CRX 5,000+ posts]

the amp is dual 600watt and each 12 inc is 850 watt sorry i dont know the RMS atm but should i get a cap? i talked to this guy at this audio place in the city he said i shouldnt i have to just try it out with what i have. or should i get a yellow top battery or just see how the car takes to it?

no don't buy a cap...those are gimmicks and don't work......

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Caps are useless,and are a waste of money..Utilize what you have now,and later on you will be able to make the decision of upgrading the battery/supply.I use redtop on my Acura plenty of supply,but there are other batteries less expensive,and yellowtops are deep cycle.The wire you have should have the rating of 8g,or 4g on it some where..It has to be printed on the sleeve by electrical code in order to market.Id check the package that the wiring came out of should tell you of course,and or a # colored in like 2,4,8,or 10.I recommend the 4g..Yet,it should have a # on the wiring/red sleeve for the gauge size.I am running 2-100rms 10in subs on dvc2ohmon an oldschool Autotek BTS 7150-150watt amp at 2ohms,and a USA US Acoustics Series II 4060 on my mids and highs,and 4g supply with an old Eclipse 3000 HU,with a Kicker KQ9 preamp eqon a pair of Infinity 6.5 seperates kappas,and Kicker KS25 tweeters,and a pair of Kappa 5.25 in the rear pillars.Subs are Audiobahn AW1008t dvc 2ohm 10s-1000rms each in a ported enclosure at 32hz/1.6cu ft each chamber,1 stinger cooling roll fan. 150amp ANL in line fuse to a fused dist block with 60 amp on the Autotek,and 40 on the US. no issues,and sounds just fine!!!!93 2-door Acura hatch

 

[Worlddre 5,000+ posts]

If your car is an automatic there will be a diamond shaped area on the firewall to the left of the brake pedal. That is where the clutch would be and where there is a guaranteed empty spot to fit as much power wire as you want through.

 

[ColterDC 10+ year member]

the amp is dual 600watt and each 12 inc is 850 watt sorry i dont know the RMS atm but should i get a cap? i talked to this guy at this audio place in the city he said i shouldnt i have to just try it out with what i have. or should i get a yellow top battery or just see how the car takes to it?

No cap... they're crap.

Just hook it up and if you get any dimming, then you can look into a HO Alt, Battery and doing the Big 3.