truck cant handle system

lilrich
10+ year member

Member
Hi. How is everyone. I have a 2005 gmc sierra 1500 ex cab.

Im running a re audio 1000 wat amp at 1ohm (800 rms) to 2

Powerbass 12s. If I cut my cd player past 18 on the volume my lights flicker.

I've been through all over the web looking what I could do.

I don't wanna shell out for a hi amp alternator. I've heard alot about

the big 3 but I keep getting told if my regulator on my alternator doesn't

allow more voltage im peeing in the wind. Any advice?

 
Your not looking for more volts from your alt with the big three, your looking for more/better flow of amperage. And more amps x the volts you already have= more watts available. Do the big 3 or at least do a big ground from the batt to the frame.

 
I thought the truck was falling apart (like mine). Then I read 1000w and about fell out of the chair.

OP, GM trucks utilize the vast majority of their alternator current just running the truck.

In order to solve your dimming issue, you at least need a second battery as close to the amp as you can get it and the big 3 upgrade. You might still run into problems, which is where a high output alternator, or a second stock alternator specifically for the stereo would come into play.

Also, on the regulator thing: Somewhere in that neighborhood, GM started doing a fuel saving technique that actually kills the alternator and runs the truck strictly on the battery. Voltage will go from 14.5>12.5 when ever you aren't putting a load on the motor. If yours has this, the only way to make your alt charge the entire time is to get an external regulator to override GM's fuel saver attempt. I know older trucks didn't have this, I know newer trucks do. I am unaware which of those two categories yours fits into.

 
big 3 and run of ground to the back, and a battery.
So I just tie the new battery into my stock alternator?

Do I need to do the big 3 only on the new battery or both?

What would be a good value battery for the 800watts my amp is wanting

 
You need to put a 0 awg wire from your batt pos to your alt. Then 2 runs of 0 awg from batt neg, one to your body and one to your engine ground.. then get a batt to put right by the amp. Just hook that batt up to the neg and pos that was going into your amp then just go from that batt to the amp...... make sure you do really really good grounds(sand down to bare metal and make sure terminals are on really good)

And another thing. You don't just turn down the ssf and lpf. They are there to control frequencies that will go to the subs... keep lpf around 80 and ssf 25-30 or so.....turning down the ssf is doing the opposite of what you were trying to do

 
Issues with the dts 1000.1? Crazy, I'm running the 1500.1 and not issues, single run 2/0awg wire and big three in the same.[/
I run my power/ground with 4 and I haven't done the big 3.

Ima try it this weekend maybe it might fix my issues
 
I thought the truck was falling apart (like mine). Then I read 1000w and about fell out of the chair.
OP, GM trucks utilize the vast majority of their alternator current just running the truck.

In order to solve your dimming issue, you at least need a second battery as close to the amp as you can get it and the big 3 upgrade. You might still run into problems, which is where a high output alternator, or a second stock alternator specifically for the stereo would come into play.

Also, on the regulator thing: Somewhere in that neighborhood, GM started doing a fuel saving technique that actually kills the alternator and runs the truck strictly on the battery. Voltage will go from 14.5>12.5 when ever you aren't putting a load on the motor. If yours has this, the only way to make your alt charge the entire time is to get an external regulator to override GM's fuel saver attempt. I know older trucks didn't have this, I know newer trucks do. I am unaware which of those two categories yours fits into.
Dont listen to this guy ^

He runs kicker which is a walmart brand

 
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