Too much power for Germaniums?

[SuperBlack350z 10+ year member]

My girlfriend's got an Eclipse PA5422 (85x4 @4 ohm) that she's looking at using to run her new Germaniums. If this were bridged, would that be too much for the Germaniums to handle? I'm figuring leaving them not bridged wouldn't be enough. These are going in Tuesday, just making sure this will be an ok setup.

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[Beat_Dominator 5,000+ posts]

So what like 160+ bridged? They would handle that I think.

 

[6spdcoupe 5,000+ posts]

Definately not too much, but rasther than bridging why not Biamp em?

 

[SuperBlack350z 10+ year member]

And here's where I'm a noob . . . how does that work and what's the advantage?

 

[Starky 10+ year member]

6spd (^^^) tells me my 400 per side will be fine with my Germ 465.65's (2 speaker per side set)

 

[mtdewelf 10+ year member]

And here's where I'm a noob . . . how does that work and what's the advantage?

disadvantages are that you are going to spend some serious time making sure that each comp set sees the exact same signal

 

[chadillac3 10+ year member]

disadvantages are that you are going to spend some serious time making sure that each comp set sees the exact same signal

The original poster is only going to use one component set...which means only level matching the tweets to the mids when bi-amping.

 

[SuperBlack350z 10+ year member]

So . . . if I'm biamping with a four channel, I have FL, FR, RL, RR . . . obviously + and - on each. So . . . In a biamped setup, am I correct in saying that each tweeter and each woofer are its own channel? If so, on say the right side, would I run the tweeter off FR and the woofer off RR and so on a so forth for the left side? That's the only way I can see this working . . . thanks for the help!

 

[headless 10+ year member]

So . . . if I'm biamping with a four channel, I have FL, FR, RL, RR . . . obviously + and - on each. So . . . In a biamped setup, am I correct in saying that each tweeter and each woofer are its own channel? If so, on say the right side, would I run the tweeter off FR and the woofer off RR and so on a so forth for the left side? That's the only way I can see this working . . . thanks for the help!

You got it right, that's how you'd do it with a 4ch amp. You'll lose some power in doing so (bridged to 2channel operation pushes more power in general, and allows the speakers to split it as needed whereas the woofer can never get more than 85w in a 4ch setup 85wx4)

 

[AphexTwin 10+ year member]

Bi-amping in a car enviroment is so stupid. Honestly do you ever see any 1 in competitions bi-amp. And out of all the company's that make components like 2 offer bi-amping. Waste of speaker wire and amp chan's.

 

[spudracer326 10+ year member]

Bi-amping in a car enviroment is so stupid. Honestly do you ever see any 1 in competitions bi-amp. And out of all the company's that make components like 2 offer bi-amping. Waste of speaker wire and amp chan's.

you my friend are a moron.....

/story

on a side note just biamp, mine are very happy biamped off my 4150xxk

 

[AphexTwin 10+ year member]

And i quote from axiom audio

"Bi-amping, or biamplification, is used mainly in professional sound reinforcement applications, where extremely high levels of loudness are required. Here big, separate amplifiers powering the low frequencies, and smaller amps for the midrange will increase overall output. Sometimes they will use a separate outboard electronic crossover (the speaker's internal crossover is disabled or bypassed entirely) so the operator can vary and adjust individual crossover frequencies, tailor the “slope” of the crossover to match the strengths of each set of drivers, and also adjust the relative sonic balance of bass, midrange and treble to suit the environment. This is important for huge auditoriums or outdoor events where separate arrays of treble and midrange horns are operating with big “bass bins,” but such systems have no place in domestic home theater systems in normal rooms or in car audio enviroments. Additionally, it puts control of the relative smoothness and tonal balance into the hands of the sound system operator, a dangerous tool for all but the most experienced sound reinforcement experts. It also partly explains why the live sound at so many concert events (not all, mind you) is so awful."

On to the good stuff.

"Will it sound any different if you biwire? Some users think it does, but I've never heard any differences, nor have any of our laboratory measurements or scientifically controlled double blind listening tests ever demonstrated there are audible differences. Axiom includes the extra terminals as a nod to those enthusiasts who believe that biwiring results in audible benefits and for the bi-ampers."

STFU K-thx

 

[spudracer326 10+ year member]

What is described there is called running your components active, it and biamping passives are two diferent things....when running active you control the crossovr points and tonal balances with a seperate processor...when biamping passives you are simply running a channel into the tweeter input on the speakers passive crossover and a channel to the midwoofers input on the speakers passive crossover...then letting the passive crossover use its fixed points adjust where the speaker is crossed at....and it is not wortheless...go to a local competition and see how many people are running one input passives and how many are running active/biamped...you might be suprised that your so called waiste of wire is the most common as it gives the user greater control over what there speakers are doing....resulting in tonaly(sp) supperior performance....

now you can stfu and gtfo....noobx....

 

[SuperBlack350z 10+ year member]

Well, they're in. My girlfriend is out of town and I'm surprising her with the install when she comes back. My first impressions are pretty good. I went with the biamped configuration. The one thing I didn't even think about, since I'm biamping with a 4ch, is that when i fade it front to back it fades between the woofers and tweeters (and also the stock rears which are still running off the deck). They haven't really been tuned up since I'm waiting for my g/f to tune them to her ears, but I'm thinking the stock rears are really interfering with the sq of the Germs. She doesn't want to go without rear fill (we've had this discussion), but I think this may let me convince her to disconnect them. They're just 5 1/4's very low in the rear doors, so they don't add much in terms of volume, but I really think they're taking away in terms of sq. Any opinions? Also, how long is the typical break in period for these?

 

[MrSector9 10+ year member]

unhook the sotckers //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

dont tlel her

OR attenuate them down VERY low.