CarAudio.com - Hal
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This seems to be more of a discussion topic rather than a specific technical question. However, if you have any specific issues or questions about car audio setup, feel free to ask!
- Thread Starter
- #3
Bot response? Allrighty then... it is an actual user technical question based on subjective results Hal. Sometimes users can interpret the question as posed far better than a standard response. Biased it may be but subjective opinions are what op is after.
Since the Koreans can handle lower voltages fine, the electrical upgrade would be cheaper (if you're talking 8k there's no point skimping on that though). Honestly on a well tuned thought out system...I doubt your could hear any difference at all.
I was pretty hard on my smart3k and it sounded great with my sql 15's...never got overly warm or any other issues. If you were talking about an a amp for mids and tweets I could see not going Brazilian but for a sub I don't think it matters unless you have a very specific need imo
I was pretty hard on my smart3k and it sounded great with my sql 15's...never got overly warm or any other issues. If you were talking about an a amp for mids and tweets I could see not going Brazilian but for a sub I don't think it matters unless you have a very specific need imo
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metalheadjoe
10+ year member
Unapologetic prick
I switched from Hcca5000.1dv2 to smart5bass, because I thought the pops were from the amp. I prefer hcca. Tarmps sounds "dry". Sorry i don't know a better term.
Popwarhomie
5,000+ posts
RIP CA.com.
Tough one.
Ruthless 7500.1 $1400. Fantastic amps and a 0.5 ohm warranty.
Taramps big boss 8000. $700 They are cheap and make power but could possibly pop at any time.
If I were planning on having this amp for a long time I would "buy once cry once" and go Ruthless.
But that $700 you save on the Taramps could buy another Taramps 8k.
Ruthless 7500.1 $1400. Fantastic amps and a 0.5 ohm warranty.
Taramps big boss 8000. $700 They are cheap and make power but could possibly pop at any time.
If I were planning on having this amp for a long time I would "buy once cry once" and go Ruthless.
But that $700 you save on the Taramps could buy another Taramps 8k.
Okay, let's try apples to a full bridge that's not a Taramps.
I'd run with these all day long - and still save serious coin, without compromising a thing.
He's got one left, and these guys are rated, and exceed rated at 12v!
I'd run with these all day long - and still save serious coin, without compromising a thing.
He's got one left, and these guys are rated, and exceed rated at 12v!
- Thread Starter
- #9
Opinions have been stated, include mine while you're at it. I'd not try to play with my amplification while saving a buck. Of course you can double your power, even order new replacements and stay under budget while rocking the made-pop amps but those who paid for a solid board know the difference... am I right?
If longevity and abuse are part of your future plans I'd just eat the cost when amps come into the budget. $500 for 8K is what it is, $1200 for 8K is probably a deal with user abuse. User abuse is NOT limited to new users... some of us like to find the limits continuously. That's the spice of having a system, finding those limits. I hear those "other" amplifiers can't support the usage under heavy use without failing with the sound being off before even getting to failure levels.
I've been top of the garbage heap once upon a time in my org for about 2yr and experienced the same firsthand... some amps deliver and others well... you get what you pay for.
Thank you all for the responses... really
If longevity and abuse are part of your future plans I'd just eat the cost when amps come into the budget. $500 for 8K is what it is, $1200 for 8K is probably a deal with user abuse. User abuse is NOT limited to new users... some of us like to find the limits continuously. That's the spice of having a system, finding those limits. I hear those "other" amplifiers can't support the usage under heavy use without failing with the sound being off before even getting to failure levels.
I've been top of the garbage heap once upon a time in my org for about 2yr and experienced the same firsthand... some amps deliver and others well... you get what you pay for.
Thank you all for the responses... really
Old_Slapper
CarAudio.com VIP
My experience is Korean amps are more reliable and built better than Brazilian amps. For a daily user, 8k is a lot of power. How does your hearing handle that?
- Thread Starter
- #11
The real question is how well does the cabin hold up? I typically wire down and try to clamp within 10-15% of rated in the lanes. I've tried loud and low, demo classes but my 1st love is Spl. I like the reactions I get with wiper slappin', firewall flexin' big numbers. I try to design for cabin peak enclosure-wise and that tuning happens to be close to my music type... rock.
My hearing is fine, its those screaming highs like a stunt wall that'll really damage your ears. I've had to re-park my vehicle several times at shows because of others with their stunt walls. Imagine being 40ft away with one of those monstrosities pointed at you.
I'd rather wet my hair in the toilet.
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People really need to get out of the habit of refering to full-bridge amps as "Brazilian", full bridge is no more a Brazilian topolgy than class "D" from everywhere else is or isn't a Korean half bridge, it was just popularized by Brazillian manufacturers.
Even the earlier models that didn't handle votage fluctuations had issues more to do with poor installations and poor eletrical support than the designs were bad.
JL, RF, DD Audio, Doen4Sound, Orioin, SoundQubed, and other companies make full-bridge boards AND RF, JL have been doing it for longer than Taramps, PRV, Bravo, or Banda!
One topology is not better than the other. PowerUS, Soundigital GanFET, examples of full-bridge desings that are every bit as good and robust as their Korean board counterparts.
There are far more cheap, poor quality half bridge designs out there than poor quality full bridge designs.
It simply comes down to the design of either topology and what your willing to pay for it.
Simple truth is that you can use half the componants in a full bridge design which even when yyou use the same or better quality componants, cost is less.
Full-bridge amps utizing smart efficient power supplies and GANfet's are the way of the future. you watch, as the price on GANfets drop, you'll see more and more compnies moving towards using them in full bridge designs as half bridge designs start to fade away.
It's only a few years away, if that.
- Thread Starter
- #13
No shade thrown your way so don't respond like Rob please. I've ran solid boards on less than optimal electrical lower than impedance and in Az heat. Last one was 4K @ .5 with AGM support/250A alt for a daily. Trust me I was VERY abusive... so much so that I gave up trying to make the thing fail. To solidify everything I reinstalled everything with 35ah of lithium and did a battery delete. Everything was going perfect till I connected something reversed at the amp so once I insatlled that 300A fuse up front something started sizzling in the cabin. I did not notice till I sat in the drivers seat and smelled trouble. It must have took me another 30sec to rip the power off the lithium while everything (especially the amp) was smoking, Pucker factor for sure, I saw what I did and basically wrote off the amp at that point. But I had to try... once it was fixed everything fired up and lasted another year of my abuse till I sold it.
Quality costs
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You gots to pay to "really" play.
No worries, I don't get "at" people in here, or in other forums either, at least not in a personal way.
I recall the days when if you had a class "D amp, that was $hitsville stuff, nobody who wants true quality sound would use class "D", to much noise, not dynamic, a cheap man's amp.
From a long line of EE's here, kind of in the blood.
It comes down to quality in/quality out.
No worries, I don't get "at" people in here, or in other forums either, at least not in a personal way.
I recall the days when if you had a class "D amp, that was $hitsville stuff, nobody who wants true quality sound would use class "D", to much noise, not dynamic, a cheap man's amp.
From a long line of EE's here, kind of in the blood.
It comes down to quality in/quality out.
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