The acoustics of my vehicle (small SUV) ****!!

i've heard that camaros have one of the best acoustics of all cars........(just what i heard from a camaro forum)
Audio discussions on car forums tend to be 20 ingnorant ****tards with one actual knowledgable person getting flamed contantly trying to put sense into the ****tards = hilarity.

 
It is a 2003 Mits Montero Sport LTD. The doors don't seem different from the majority of what's out there. I have Dynamat Xtreme, both levels, plus acoustic damping pads throughout. Doesn't sound like I'm getting much resonation from the inside or outside skin. Did perform the ritualistic phase shifting on every speaker for optimization.
I think the midbass I'm after is going to require enclosed midbass drivers up front (probably on the floor at the front of the seats, firing forward or up). The stage, I'll try raising with a pair of tweets crossed over pretty high and positioned with a higher/forward focal, to draw it up.
you dont need to necessarily be right on axis what are the speakers? if im familiar with them there are a few tricks i know about if not you can still try . i would aim the tweet up and in front almost or as close to being aimed at the rear view mirrior on the windshield (only diff is you want to be in front of it slightly) factory door locations are a ***** though in 8 outa ten cars the mid bass mid range gets WELL into cancelation well before it gets to EITHER listener. as a drop in set none active cdt puts out a decent set up for the doors if you are going active (i know you already have the speakers) i would try 18 db cross over slopes on the mids and what ever works well with the tweet. biggest problem you are gonna have is a projected pressence with the set. this might sound dumb but if you have room try an offset mdf baffle aimed up slightly as well. even if its just a few degrees it should negate some cancelation. once you get that done phase hop then do your eqing but only after you create some order, 24 db slopes in my experiences work best in 180- +90 degree speaker placements 18db or 36db for everything else.....12 isnt steep enough to clarify too many things either unless everything is phase correct which in YOUR case i dont see how it could be without time alignment........

 
That's a good idea about running AP membrane for a couple MB drivers. Keeps the housing simple and small.

My deck provides DSP and time alignment (Alpine CDA-7878 ($800)). It's several years old, but does a nice job and last of its generation of single high-strength-laser CD pickup.

Front mids include Phoenix Gold 6.5" Ti6Comp Elite (morel) and a pair of Alpine Type X 4". Rear midbass only comes from Alpine Type X 6.5" 17MB pair. The Ti's can handle a crap load of power but they're too overwhelming, for me, at over 100 W RMS, so that's their meal.

Thoughts?

 
are these run active or passive? if the are passive get some excedrine and **** the rear fill untill you get the fronts right. reason i say this is in your time alignment if you are passive you are dealing with SETS that by location are very different because the tweet and mid are seperate. best case scenario is measure the distances between the side average in the off set due to tweeter placement then adjust. the x over slopes will be a none factor as well if they are passive as unless you "make some" it will be constant. advantage to this is at least it is constant but could be a bad variable. still measure then off set the driverside a bit. note doing it this way will only make YOUR side sound better will mess up the passenger side on note brb im going to the store lol

 
Who cares about the passengers! *hehe*

Hey, audiolife, I really appreciate your time weighing in on this. At first I was only barfing my frustrations, but you have sparked some ideas that I haven't yet tried. Turns out it wasn't a fruitless post after all.

BTW, I just noticed you're sporting a Mobile ES deck (rare!). That's OG goodness. It still pains me to this day, letting go of my ol xr-C900.

 
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