Taramps! Unreliable Garbage or Good Amps?

From my findings and actual experiences is....they CAN NOT sustain their 1ohm rms ratings for very long with out burning up I don’t care what anyone says....they rely on impedance rise and voltage drop...they don’t have the internals or heat sinks to sustain the heat from making rated power for long....Koreans are built to run their rated power all day hence why they're the size they are
Nuthuggers: "Buh buh baseless claims"
 
From my findings and actual experiences is....they CAN NOT sustain their 1ohm rms ratings for very long with out burning up I don’t care what anyone says....they rely on impedance rise and voltage drop...they don’t have the internals or heat sinks to sustain the heat from making rated power for long....Koreans are built to run their rated power all day hence why they're the size they are

Yes for sure the old ts, hd and md models are like that, their internals are programmed to run at almost max capacity so trying to get more power out of them with higher charging voltages or wiring low made the TS series blow and the new hd and md series go into protect. Which is why people were specifically told not to do any of that. That's why people just buy double the power.

With the Bass series you can wire to the dirt like koreans but actual clamped power still falls short but dollar for watt is still a deal vs the more expensive korean counterparts aka a bass 30k for the same price as a korean 8k new, even if only comes close to hitting rated, you are still getting a lot more power for your money.

The newer Models are getting better though. For example you can watch the smart 3k dyno video which survives all the low impedance tests and does not rely on any impedance rise for safety. you can also and look up some clamp tests on it one facebook audio groups, They do fairly well all around. Hopefully they make larger sized ones for that series. Its still a work in progress but Full bridge is definitely where the industry is moving when deaf bounce and sundown are trying to get their hands on the full bridge cookie jar.
 
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I installed my MD 1200.1. Not too impressed. Knobs feel cheap and wobbly. The manual says use 5 gauge power/ground. My 4 gauge fit with ferrules I use them anyway but I don't see a quality 4 gauge fitting without them unless you are good at twisting wire tight or shave some strands. I had to crank my sub control from +3 to +8 and the gain near half just to appear as loud as my JBL GTR amp. The amp is twice the rms as my sub so wasn't cranking it and the fan turned on I can hear it over the music which is annoying.. Likely will put my JBL back in and save for a better amp that has a high pass/subsonic.
you have the misconception that the gain setting is the same on every amp, The potentiometer sensitivity could vary greatly. You need to set the gains properly first before writing things off. the high pass is the subsonic filter btw Thats what subsonic filters are... high pass filters.
 
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The ds has more power...it's rated at 12.6v and the ts at 13.8v... I had the the ts400x4 though and it a good little amp
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