T-Line Powered Subwoofer

[ThxOne Premium Member]

Because it is hot outside I want to do an inside project. I want to build a subwoofer for my computer. I have decided to build something silly. A T-Line powered subwoofer. Powered by a Dayton Audio Class D 100w plate amplifier and using a single 6.5" subwoofer. This is just to amuse myself but will be fully functional and used daily.

I have the amp picked out and narrowed it down to 3 - 6.5" subwoofers. Which one would you use?

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[Buck 5,000+ posts]

I would look for a brand that’s designed for IB

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

I would look for a brand that’s designed for IB

Not the easiest thing to find in a 6.5" subwoofer.

I don't think a normal sub will sound bad. Using the specs of the Tropo... cause it's cheap, If the inside of the T-Line is 8" wide it would have to be 8" x 2.8" x 59" apprx. I think I could make that work.

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

I added a sub to the poll. The Tang Band W6

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

You can pick up a pair on Ebay for under $100 bucks
Id would run these or try a VFL

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08H5SDR3X/?tag=caraudiocom-20

Thats me though.

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

You can pick up a pair on Ebay for under $100 bucks
Id would run these or try a VFL

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08H5SDR3X/?tag=caraudiocom-20

Thats me though.

I'm just gonna run a single 6.5" and I am trying to keep the power requirements low. I am only going to be putting 100w rms to it. It's going to be on when my computer is on so I don't want a big power draw either. I was just going to slap a 500w plate amp on my Ultimax 10 that is holding up my 55" 4K but I don't want to shake the house down lol. This T-Line is going to be paired with a set of Creative T20 II speakers.

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

I came up with this for the Tang Band, if I go that route:

Tang Band - Port width 6.5in x 6.5in x 67in straight wall port
50hz tuned 1/4 wave putting the low octave at 25hz and the upper octave at 100hz
Speaker rating - 50w rms @ 4ohms 100w max @ 4ohms

Power amp rating - 100w rms @ 4ohms
200w max @ 4ohms

The sub and port would share the same mounting surface and the sub would be mid mounted on the baffle with the port at the lowest portion of the baffle. The length of the port would be lined with material. Here is a rough sketch.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I'm just gonna run a single 6.5" and I am trying to keep the power requirements low. I am only going to be putting 100w rms to it. It's going to be on when my computer is on so I don't want a big power draw either. I was just going to slap a 500w plate amp on my Ultimax 10 that is holding up my 55" 4K but I don't want to shake the house down lol. This T-Line is going to be paired with a set of Creative T20 II speakers.

If you plan on keeping the cost down,and looking for a simple sub. This may be ideal for the $ and for what you may need. I ran a pair of 10s a few years back in sperate enclosures in a 1990 240 SX on an Old school Mean Machine 99, and they hit so hard that my ears actually hurt.(takes a bit for my ears to do that). While driving down the highway at 75mph something hit me in the left cheek.. It was the dust cover. eventually they both blew off, but those subs kept taking a beating and sounded pretty good while doing so.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QW4JNQL/?tag=caraudiocom-20

 

[SlugButter]

With only 100 watts of amplifier power, for sure do the Tang Band. 12 mm of xmax on 50 watts is about as good as it gets for a small wattage subwoofer. The TB sub will not handle more than it’s 50 watt rating. I have mine on a 50 watt rms amp and it pushes it to its limits. I’ve ran it in outside the enclosure, and it handles all 50 watts in free air very well. I’m quite impressed with how much bass comes out of this little subwoofer.

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

I would look for a brand that’s designed for IB

Since 6.5s go in door cavities or shelf mount, I assumed they are designed for IB.

 

[SlugButter]

Since 6.5s go in door cavities or shelf mount, I assumed they are designed for IB.

Finding a 6.5 subwoofer for IB is actually hard. I did this same search. I bought 2 Goldwood 6.5 inch woofers that are decent For IB with a .QTS of .71, but they aren’t very good for a t-line. It’s more of a woofer that plays from 35-40 HZ all the way up to 4000 HZ in a bookshelf speaker or in wall speaker. You wouldn’t want that range coming from under a desk.

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

Finding a 6.5 subwoofer for IB is actually hard. I did this same search. I bought 2 Goldwood 6.5 inch woofers that are decent For IB with a .QTS of .71, but they aren’t very good for a t-line. It’s more of a woofer that plays from 35-40 HZ all the way up to 4000 HZ in a bookshelf speaker or in wall speaker. You wouldn’t want that range coming from under a desk.

My T20's roll off around 70hz. This thing should fill the bottom end pretty good. I plan on adding a 1/3rd octave stereo EQ as well. I have an Alesis M-EQ 230. My dad is looking for it in my storage unit in NC. How silly is it to EQ computer speakers?

 

[SlugButter]

My T20's roll off around 70hz. This thing should fill the bottom end pretty good. I plan on adding a 1/3rd octave stereo EQ as well. I have an Alesis M-EQ 230. My dad is looking for it in my storage unit in NC. How silly is it to EQ computer speakers?

You are likely going to EQ anything you build at home. The only way around it really is to give sub, tweeters and midbass their own amp channel and a passive crossover and kind of EQ it with the gain/volume function on the amps to tune sub, mid and tweeter into a decent alignment with each other.

 

[SlugButter]

Are you stuffing your t-line?

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

Are you stuffing your t-line?

Yes, not sure what materials yet.