system not working!!! help :(

[unknown00 10+ year member]

TXA-1502 Cadence 2 Channel High Power 300 Watt Amplifier

8W3V3-4 - JL Audio 8" 150 Watt RMS 4 Ohm Subwoofer

wired everything up, checked power and ground with volt meter everything is fine. when it turns on the amp has a green light that turns on, wait 5 seconds and a red light turns on too. no power goes to sub so nothing works. one time i unplugged the speaker wire from amp and red light disappeared...plug subs back in works...couple minutes later red light back on and stops working. already turned down gain and bass on amp and headunit nothing works. suggestions? what in the world does red light mean anyways? manual has nothing about it. help!!!

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[Fusion_FREAK 10+ year member]

Your amp is going into protection. Re-check your wiring configurations on the sub. Are you running the amp bridged? You may have the sub wired at 2 ohms, and the amp may not be able to handle 2 ohm when bridged.

 

[blackbonnie 5,000+ posts]

red light means your amp is going into protect mode. it sound like you wired the sub to a to low of an impedence. i cant recall but is your sub a dvc, if so and you are running it bridged at 2 ohm, your amp isnt stable there and it is causing it to go into protec mode (red light)

 

[unknown00 10+ year member]

the sub is suppose to be at 4ohms...yes the amp is bridged but bridged is 4ohms too so it should be fine. what is a dvc?

 

[Fusion_FREAK 10+ year member]

the sub is suppose to be at 4ohms...yes the amp is bridged but bridged is 4ohms too so it should be fine. what is a dvc?

How many terminals/posts are on the sub? How did you wire it?

I'm willing to put money on it that you wired the sub to 2 ohms.

A DVC is Dual Voice Coil.

 

[unknown00 10+ year member]

it's a SVC no dual. there are only 2 terminals on the sub one + and one - so i don't believe wiring on sub can be wrong

 

[lil_italy773 10+ year member]

i would agree with them 2. u have a dmm unplug the speaker wires and test the ohm load.

 

[unknown00 10+ year member]

i would agree with them 2. u have a dmm unplug the speaker wires and test the ohm load.

what's a dmm?

i don't understand though...the sub is rated at 4ohms and only have 2 terminals one + and one -

the sub is attached through the amp in the bridged way one left one right at 4ohms i don't see what's wrong

 

[kross 10+ year member]

How do you have the amp wired? Is your subwoofer output from the headunit split into both RCA inputs on the amp, using a Y splitter? How are the speaker wires wired to the amp?

Also, in your first post, you said you "turned down gain and bass on amp". Leave the bass boost on the amp on zero. It just adds distortion to the output.

 

[unknown00 10+ year member]

i just wired how pple normally do with my car (mazda3)...

sub only goes to amp. it's wired in a bridged way as mentioned earlier

amp has power going to car battery, ground, signal wire tapped into ignition, and RCA going to headunit with LOC

 

[WKD TC]

the amp is a piece of garbage

 

[blackbonnie 5,000+ posts]

its not garbage dickhead. were trying to help him. a dmm is a digital multimeter and can be had for around 6-10 bucks for a cheap one. it measures voltage, current, resistance, and more as you get higher end. can you shoot us a link to your exact sub, or a pic of its magnet where it should say if it is 4 ohm or 2. my bet is that you have a 2 ohm sub, even though you may have order a 4 or bought a 4, it could be 2 and thats where your problems are

 

[unknown00 10+ year member]

my sub- http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_subs.php?series_id=27 - it only comes it 4 or 8ohms

my amp- http://www.cadencestore.com/ProductCart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=125&idproduct=381

i'm about to leave town for the entire weekend but i will take pictures and double check everything in couple days

 

[blackbonnie 5,000+ posts]

well that combo mathches up good. maybe you didnt bridge it correctly, can you get a pick or where your speaker wires connect to your amp?

 

[unknown00 10+ year member]

i too thought i connected the speaker wires from the sub to the amp incorrectly. this morning, before i left town, i double checked with the manual and everything seems correct with the bridging. plus, if i messed up the + with - the only difference is that the sub would hit backwards but it still should be on. the wires are indeed all secured and not messed up anywhere. i will try when i get back home to turn everything on low settings and try running non bridged...