Switching choice from W7's to Brahmas- AMP CONFIG etc.

[drkodin 10+ year member]

Originally posted by ///M3bumping U ARE ON TOP OF THIS BRO, ONE STEP AHEAD EVERY TIME LOL!

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif i asked all these questions about 3months ago. it is amazing how much i have learned in such a small amount of time. i promise you, if you do your own install, your knowledge will grow in leaps and bounds.

 

[///M3bumping 10+ year member]

I just searched sound domain and found this beaut for 200 bones and the other for 279 or something. IS it worth throwing down the extra 70 between this and this? 1) http://www.sounddomain.com/sku/STISP1700 279...... 2) http://www.sounddomain.com/sku/STISP1000 200......

BTW, i wanna try second skin i hear its a real performer and it should be making a quick rise very soon once proven in real world applications.

 

[drkodin 10+ year member]

$700-800 for 2 brahmas

$800 for amp

$80ish for sound deadening (after shipping)

$200 for batt

$150 for wires/wood/etc

**** man. that is a big *** budget. wish i had over 2K to spend on my system.

 

[///M3bumping 10+ year member]

Originally posted by drkodin $700-800 for 2 brahmas

$800 for amp

$80ish for sound deadening (after shipping)

$200 for batt

$150 for wires/wood/etc

 

**** man. that is a big *** budget. wish i had over 2K to spend on my system.

300 Alpine 7894

750 shipped for brahmas Ampman.com

700 for xtr pro 2400 orion (sub amp)

50 Shipped for 50ft of second skin (special)

200 for batt

150 wood wires etc.

320 S500 5.25 components

250 us amp component amp.

GOD IM FRIGHTENED JSUT TO ADD IT UP.

 

[drkodin 10+ year member]

i'd take the cheaper one. i dont know a whole ot about batts, but i do know dry cell is the best way to go. plus, Stinger is a good company and both of those batts are dry cell. so either way you look good.

 

[drkodin 10+ year member]

HEY I JUST REMEMBERED THIS!!! did you get the second roll of 50sq ft for $25? it was also part of the special through Nov. you probably need to contact him today. i would stroungly recomend it if you can spare the extra $25 (i hope so //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif ). this way you can do your doors and such too.

 

[///M3bumping 10+ year member]

Originally posted by drkodin i'd take the cheaper one. i dont know a whole ot about batts, but i do know dry cell is the best way to go. plus, Stinger is a good company and both of those batts are dry cell. so either way you look good.

Alright, well .. Im going to initiate buying plans. Dr kodin, im sure we will be in touch for those tips u have for me. I really do hope this turns out the way im thinking it should. Should be pretty intense in my M3. Has to live up to standard of M3, so best w/ best. IMO of course. ANy other comments appreciated still. Again, thanks to all.

 

[drkodin 10+ year member]

Looks like we are thinking the same thing right now....

ZZZZzzzzzzzzz........

 

[///M3bumping 10+ year member]

Phew, just added it up and looks to equal around 2760 right now. Trying to keep it under 3 g's. Any other costs i should factor in or try to work in? In regards to the second roll, if need be i will simply wait a week for another paycheck and get another roll, as i cant get the other 25 as of now and will soon enough have more to spend. Again, not to much more to spend, but i am willing to take to limit. So dont hold back. thanks brad //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 

[///M3bumping 10+ year member]

I just saw this on the sound domain site. http://www.sounddomain.com/shop/item.pl?sku=LITS200 . Looks to be something that would allow me to add my extra deep cycle to my current for even more power. Is this a way to go and spend 70 more bucks? worth it?

 

[drkodin 10+ year member]

Originally posted by ///M3bumping I just saw this on the sound domain site. http://www.sounddomain.com/shop/item.pl?sku=LITS200 . Looks to be something that would allow me to add my extra deep cycle to my current for even more power. Is this a way to go and spend 70 more bucks? worth it?

no. you only need one batt. adding more is just another strain on your alt (i dont car what that thing says). people use multiple batts if they run their system with the car off. if the car is on you will have no problems.

 

[///M3bumping 10+ year member]

Originally posted by drkodin no. you only need one batt. adding more is just another strain on your alt (i dont car what that thing says). people use multiple batts if they run their system with the car off. if the car is on you will have no problems.

Grandmaster clears that one up yet again.

 

[drkodin 10+ year member]

LOL. alright man, i need to get some sleep and you need to stop spending money //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif .

if you have anymore questions i will answer them in the morning.

 

[///M3bumping 10+ year member]

again to kodin and everyone , thanks alot. THis is just the planning part real money spending is where i start weeping.. this itself is easy . gnights all.

 

[jlaine 10+ year member]

Originally posted by drkodin the alt can keep up if he did what i told him. the deep cycle is a must because system draw is at a minimum. bmw cars take what power they need for the electrical components and then let you use what is left over. the deep cycle wont do anything but help him due to the extra amperage on tap in the batt. i'm not saying add another batt, i'm saying replace the batt with a deep cycle.

 

note: i have personal experience with this. my car is basicly the same as his, his is just better. both are still the e36 platform.

The deep cycle is not a must, where do you get this flawed logic that because system draw is at a minimum that you need a deep cycle?

You tap into a vehicle's power supply, you tap into it. The current demand from the amps is going to effect the entire vehicle, there is no point blank way of isolating it as the supply is tied into the source. Supply and demand still applies, and you will still have a voltage drop situation if you have to fall back on the battery(ies).

Do you understand what a deep cycle's properties are?

Do you realize what the primary intent of the deep cycle battery is, and why it is NOT ideal for starting and maintaining a vehicle as the primary power source?

You do realize that a deep cycle battery by itself does not offer more amperage than a starting battery? In fact a starting battery on average can displace more current over a shorter period of time than a deep cycle. The deep cycle can recover from a deep cycle discharge state to a complete state of charge many many many more times than a starting battery, hence it's name. But it also as a rule cannot provide as fast of a recharge/discharge state as a starting battery can. There are gives and takes to the various types.

I have plenty of firsthand experience with charging systems also, and what you are saying about batteries (saying deep cycle is a must) rings incorrect at this point. The only reason to go with the yellow top is because optima will not provide warranty on the red top if you have a car audio system installed in your vehicle, and this is because kids liked to deep cycle them too often and damaged the internals which caused them to no longer be able to maintain a charge. You can do that with any standard starting battery if you like to use your system for extended periods of time with the engine off. Several repetitive severe discharge states on any starting battery can destroy it.

A standard deep cycle battery is fine under most conditions, but you move out of california to the arctic tundra once and you'll find that the slower recharge rate may leave you stranded with a dead vehicle. It takes you longer to bring a deep cycle battery back to full charge, and that can lead to issues if you don't have your car running for extended periods of time.