Switching choice from W7's to Brahmas- AMP CONFIG etc.

[crispy highs 10+ year member]

what's up......

what a great set up. IMO, I would leave the MB quarts and just back off on the tweets if you have to and keep playing'em until they go....then upgrade. That will save you $ right there, Mb quarts are really nice and I wouldn't get rid of them unless I had to. Also, forget about the caps and get a deep cycle battery and a H.O. alternator just like the guys have said. Definitely stick with the orion amp.

Remember.....70 amps of alternator power per 1000 watts:

Check these sights out.....http://www.alternator.com , http://www.ampman.com , http://www.mralternator.com

 

[///M3bumping 10+ year member]

Originally posted by crispy highs what's up......

what a great set up. IMO, I would leave the MB quarts and just back off on the tweets if you have to and keep playing'em until they go....then upgrade. That will save you $ right there, Mb quarts are really nice and I wouldn't get rid of them unless I had to. Also, forget about the caps and get a deep cycle battery and a H.O. alternator just like the guys have said. Definitely stick with the orion amp.

Remember.....70 amps of alternator power per 1000 watts:

Check these sights out.....http://www.alternator.com , http://www.ampman.com , http://www.mralternator.com

Would this be RMS watts or max watts.

 

[jlaine 10+ year member]

Originally posted by Mark_ab 3cuft yeilds a Qtc of 0.707

I believe he is speaking of per driver. You're providing net airspace for the pair, which is where the confusion lies.

1.5 cubic feet PER 12" driver gives you a butterworth alignment.

The mention of adding a deep cycle battery to your system is bogus. Batteries are reserve power that only functions when the vehicle is not running, or is experiencing severe power instability. Skip the added lead weight to your precious vehicle, and focus the money on the alternator, and perhaps trimming down some of the boom. You may find one brahma 12" more than sufficient in such a car, there isn't a lot of airspace to pressurize there.

 

[///M3bumping 10+ year member]

Im pretty much set on the amp and sub set-up. IT really has to be huge, with components to boot. IM looking for an alternator that would support what my system is looking at. I cant find one at the level i need. What exactly do u think the level i would need is? Please check the system back at the first page. Thanks again guys, i really need to get this done. Addressing the issue of weight as well, I am 16 and when i turn 18 i get some money that ive been saving up and i will be super charging the m3. At 16, with the cold air intake, I am well satisfied with the power. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[Bumpin03 10+ year member]

I would go with atleast 160 amps. You will be running close to 3,000 watts. OUCH. My alternator is 105 amps stock and I blew it with a JBL 1200.1. So yeah...get as big of an alternator as you can. It won't hurt getting an alternator to big. Even though i dont think its possible to do that with close to 3,000 watts.

 

[///M3bumping 10+ year member]

Originally posted by Bumpin03 I would go with atleast 160 amps. You will be running close to 3,000 watts. OUCH. My alternator is 105 amps stock and I blew it with a JBL 1200.1. So yeah...get as big of an alternator as you can. It won't hurt getting an alternator to big. Even though i dont think its possible to do that with close to 3,000 watts.

The closes one that i have found is 140 amps. The stock is pretty shitty so i think i need something. Somebody pro , that knows where to go will help me out on this ! come on guys!

BRad

 

[GSteg 10+ year member]

also you gotta make sure if your engine is strong enough to turn those big alternators.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[drkodin 10+ year member]

Originally posted by jlaine The mention of adding a deep cycle battery to your system is bogus. Batteries are reserve power that only functions when the vehicle is not running, or is experiencing severe power instability. Skip the added lead weight to your precious vehicle, and focus the money on the alternator, and perhaps trimming down some of the boom. You may find one brahma 12" more than sufficient in such a car, there isn't a lot of airspace to pressurize there.

the alt can keep up if he did what i told him. the deep cycle is a must because system draw is at a minimum. bmw cars take what power they need for the electrical components and then let you use what is left over. the deep cycle wont do anything but help him due to the extra amperage on tap in the batt. i'm not saying add another batt, i'm saying replace the batt with a deep cycle.

note: i have personal experience with this. my car is basicly the same as his, his is just better. both are still the e36 platform.

 

[///M3bumping 10+ year member]

Originally posted by drkodin the alt can keep up if he did what i told him. the deep cycle is a must because system draw is at a minimum. bmw cars take what power they need for the electrical components and then let you use what is left over. the deep cycle wont do anything but help him due to the extra amperage on tap in the batt. i'm not saying add another batt, i'm saying replace the batt with a deep cycle.

 

note: i have personal experience with this. my car is basicly the same as his, his is just better. both are still the e36 platform.

Dr Kodin, thanks alot for all the help u have given me with my lil project. Gotten a little out hand but im trying to keep up. How do u like ur systems sound in the e36. Where can i get a deep cycle battery than u recommend man. again, thanks again

BRAD

 

[///M3bumping 10+ year member]

Hey, u say get the Deep cycle at see how it is. IS this like what u are talking about? I figure, i should get the yellow deep cycle accesory battery to complement my stock as well correct? (**http://www.thezeb.com/caraudio/optima.html**) How much would this help me...? I also want to make sure, other than weight, that this setup no matter how intense will not be hurting the performance side of my m3. Thanks alot for everyone contribution.

BRAD

 

[drkodin 10+ year member]

i got a Rockford Fosgate one (950 amps) but you can get cheaper ones on http://www.sounddomain.com or any other car audio store cheaper than i paid (i paid like $200. didn't really want to but my stock batt died so i needed a new one as soon as possible).

i like the sound in the e36 except for two things. one, your trunk lid is a ***** to sounddeaden. i can give you some tips that will get rid of a lot of the rattle, but it is almost impossible to get rid of all of it. the second also involves the trunk. there are two vents in the trunk, one on each side. they allow any pressurized air to escape from the trunk. this doesn't change the sound at all, but there are little rubber flaps on the vents that smack against plactic when your sub hits. it just sounds like a bad rattle. put sound deadening over the vent or towels in front of em and the problem is fixed though.

the rest of the car is pretty solid. a few spots you might wanna deaden, but nothing major.

 

[///M3bumping 10+ year member]

Originally posted by ///M3bumping Hey, u say get the Deep cycle at see how it is. IS this like what u are talking about? I figure, i should get the yellow deep cycle accesory battery to complement my stock as well correct? (**http://www.thezeb.com/caraudio/optima.html**) How much would this help me...? I also want to make sure, other than weight, that this setup no matter how intense will not be hurting the performance side of my m3. Thanks alot for everyone contribution.

 

BRAD

disregard ^^^

 

[drkodin 10+ year member]

Originally posted by ///M3bumping Hey, u say get the Deep cycle at see how it is. IS this like what u are talking about? I figure, i should get the yellow deep cycle accesory battery to complement my stock as well correct? (**http://www.thezeb.com/caraudio/optima.html**) How much would this help me...? I also want to make sure, other than weight, that this setup no matter how intense will not be hurting the performance side of my m3. Thanks alot for everyone contribution.

 

BRAD

do not add it to your current batt. replace the old one with the new one. and yes, that yellow top will work just fine.

the deep cycle is designed to run a electrical system that demands a lot of current, so it has a little extra on tap. the stock batt is like 300amps if i remember correctly, so ther really isn't much extra after all the car's components use up the current they need.

batts will not affect engine/car performance at all.

 

[///M3bumping 10+ year member]

Lemme get this straight, i add the deep cycle to my existing battery to run 2? or simply run the deep cycle. I will look into the biggest i can get... or close to the RF one. Regarding deadening, I am going to purchase 50 sq. ft. of second skin deadening material. Any other tips and tricks to make this go smoothly would be great.

U ARE ON TOP OF THIS BRO, ONE STEP AHEAD EVERY TIME LOL!

 

[drkodin 10+ year member]

only run one batt. not two. run the deep cycle. the yellow top will do just fine. the RF will run about $250 just because of the name and the few extra amps, i just got it for 200 cause i knew the shop owner.

50sq ft should be fine. i'll let you know the trouble spots and such, so just be sure to pm me when you start the sound deadening. you can either get second skin or edead or fatmat. i used fatmat, but you might want to consider one of the others. i was very happy, but i would like to see how the others perform on a similar car. edead (http://www.edesignaudio.com) is really cheap and a great product from what i have heard. second Skin is supposed to be pretty dense, but costs a bit more.