Surpassing limitations on sound quality.

[Eugenics 5,000+ posts]

I see. Well, thanks for trying. I guess.

Listen to hebrewhammer.

 

[Buffalohed 10+ year member]

Listen to hebrewhammer.

It's mildly amusing how you went from being a smartass to seemingly trying to be helpful, almost like you felt a little guilty because you thought I was taking you seriously. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif At least that little exchange was semi-entertaining. Sort of.

 

[WhoSayWho? 5,000+ posts]

almost like you felt a little guilty because you thought I was taking you seriously.

I think it is much more likely that he just got bored.

 

[Buffalohed 10+ year member]

I think it is much more likely that he just got bored.

Welcome back. I hope you didn't get bored too?

 

[Hebrew Hammer 10+ year member]

Interesting. Do you just stick the raamat to the top of the ensolite, or how do you do that? I have up to 4 layers of raamat in the weakly supported places on the floor, and 1-2 layers of ensolite everywhere. I have extra though so maybe I will just start loading it up and see if that helps. I'm still convinced that most of the noise is coming from the floor, and the rest from the engine and windows/wind.

I lay the 1st two layers or raamat...then spay glue down the ensolite...then lay to more layers of raamat down like normal.."making an ensolite sandwhich" then spray glue two more layers of ensolite, then 1 more layer or raamat like normal

keep in mind to...that once you lower the noise floor in the car...things like wind and engine noise seem louder, but in truth they were always there....just either masked by road noise or cancelled out acoustically...

 

[req 5,000+ posts]

btw, most of the noise comes through door\window seals and the windows themselves. so short of double paned windows, its virtually impossible.

not the panels.

so good luck //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/tongue.gif.6130eb82179565f6db8d26d6001dcd24.gif

 

[grouchy 10+ year member]

You can try adding some lamination to the inside of your windows. It might help reduce the wind noise a bit, plus help reduce reflections off the glass, plus add some extra security. That's what I plan to do.

 

[Buffalohed 10+ year member]

You can try adding some lamination to the inside of your windows. It might help reduce the wind noise a bit, plus help reduce reflections off the glass, plus add some extra security. That's what I plan to do.

Interesting. What kind of lamination exactly, and where would I get it?

I've gone crazy with the silicone a couple times trying to make sure the back windows are completely sealed, but they still whistle loudly when I am going over 40. It pisses me off, but I've almost given up on getting them to stop now. I think it might just be the shape of the outside of the window frame that makes the whistling, in which case no amount of sealer will stop it.

 

[grouchy 10+ year member]

Hi. You can see some more information here.

http://extremewindowsolutions.ca/automotive.htm

edit: It's not made to seal the spaces around the window though.

 

[Buffalohed 10+ year member]

I wonder, can that be applied on top of the tinting I currently have on my windows?

Oh, another thing I had been thinking about was somehow weighing down the windows by attaching/coating something to the bottom of them in the door. Or maybe even putting many layers of raamat on them, so the increased mass of the window would decrease wind noise.

 

[grouchy 10+ year member]

I wonder, can that be applied on top of the tinting I currently have on my windows?
Oh, another thing I had been thinking about was somehow weighing down the windows by attaching/coating something to the bottom of them in the door. Or maybe even putting many layers of raamat on them, so the increased mass of the window would decrease wind noise.

I see on their site it says "Automotive films can be applied over existing installed Security Laminates." so probably. Also they say"Choose from a variety of metallized high performance and conventional non-reflective automotive films, offered in a wide variety of light transmission levels designed to satisfy your local tint laws." So I guess you can get tinted laminate.

 

[Buffalohed 10+ year member]

I'm definitely going to look into this. After I do some more work on my floor and see how that helps.

I have a 30lb bucket of butyl flashing cement and I might just go at it with that on the floor over the raamat, then redo the layer of ensolite and another of raamat. It's much cheaper and should serve the same purpose.

 

[16.6V 10+ year member]

What cars are you driving? If you apply that much deadening the factory ventilation is completely screwed. It is likely that your cars are going to rust badly due to condensation and rain, or they will smell like *** after a while. Do you know that the water must flow freely inside of your doors?

To do the long term deadening, you have to keep open all ventilation holes, and apply fist layer of deadener on the hot metal so that condensation won't accumulate between two surfaces.

One layer of deadener goes on the deep inside surface of the door, second layer one on the outer surface of the door, and the third layer on the plastic upholstery.

It takes about 5-6 hours to correctly deaden 1 door by a pro!!! The pic is an example of how to deaden a door correctly. (Note: the third layer goes on the inside of upholstery, not on the top of the other layers!!!) After you apply these 3 layers, you start laying 4th,5th, and 6th layer of deadener if you want, but again, you MUST keep ventilation and drainage holes at the bottom of the door/body - 100% open.

Ex of 1st and 2nd layer of the CORRECT deadening job:

 

[16.6V 10+ year member]

When people say that they have deadened a door, they actually have 3 layers!!! and when they say they have double deadened a door, they actually have 6 layer of deadener!!! and when they say that they have tipple deadened a door, they actually have 9 layers!!! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/cool.gif.3bcaf8f141236c00f8044d07150e34f7.gif

 

[PremierAudio 10+ year member]

Are saying that people on here actually triple their efforts when they say they applied a layer of sound deadening? Or are you talking about a professional? Either the case, I have seen many installers put down exactly how many layers they say they would. Not sure why someone especially an installer would go the extra mile and give a customer 2 extra layer or even 4 extra layers (double deadend) for free. None the less, ventilation is good in our cars, allows you to shut your doors, keep condensation down, keeps mold down, etc.. But if you are try achieve a solid door or car for competition, SPL or SQ, you will want them completely sealed off. Its really a give and take situation.

Oh and if it takes a pro 5-6 hours per door, and they are only installing a few layers, they probably do not know what they are doing and they would most likely be fired. If they were even doing it leisurely, I still dont know what to think about that.

Back to the original poster, Like Hebrew said, I also Sandwhich my ensolite between my deadener. This is about the best approach I have come up with, without using acoustic foam. Foam is about the best bet for knocking down those unwanted noise. But you will only reach a certain reduction in different cars, until the windows and designs start to come into play. That of which you can usually do nothing about. Cars are just not the perfect enviroment for audio..I guess thats what pushes us to achieve better things in them?