Sundown Audio X12 V2 - Enclosure Feedback Request

[Cashdollar2009]

Hey everyone,

I am planning a build in my 2010 Honda Crosstour and have worked up a design using the max dimensions that I'd like to try to stick to. I am looking at picking up one of the D4S JP23's and running at 1-ohm. Stock alternator - Big 3, Deka 9a34 underhood and Deka 9a31 in the rear for reserve. With stock alternator, I do not see the benefit of trying to drop to 0.5-ohm. Would love the extra power, but hoping this will be enough at 1-ohm in this space for this subwoofer.

With space constraints, I'd like to steer towards an aeroport. In doing research I was having a bit of trouble finding suggestions on using an aeroport in regards to port area for this subwoofer. It seems with slot port designs, the consensus was around running port area on the higher side. Example: 40in^2 for 2.5ft^2 --> 16in^2 per ft^3. I'm aware that calculating per ft^3 isn't a rule, but I tried to translate that to basic aeroport rules I'm familiar with and using a 6" aeroport in 2.5ft^3, I came up with around 11in^2 per ft^3 which in the past for me has seemed to be the upper end of general aeroport port ratio on recommendations.

I do not have much experience with the Sundown X-Series specifically, so I am wide open to feedback or suggestions.

Net Volume: 2.54ft^3
Tuning Frequency: 32.21Hz
Port Area: 28.26in^2
Port Area Per Foot: 11.13in^2

 

[shredder2]

Interesting build, with 2 x-12s I'd plan on 4-5k to power it right... That said I'd shoot for closer to 16in2/ft3 if you want output.
Capable subs and big power lead to compromise.
Otherwise you'll clip them and trying to get loud.
Understand what you're dealing with.

 

[Cashdollar2009]

Just focusing on a single sub for this build, I'm leaning towards the JP23 V2 so hopefully it has me in the ballpark for the right power - the dyno numbers look great doing about 900 watts over the older versions. The older versions included a 12.4V rating of 2k which I'd like to try to hold my voltage to with the Deka batteries and big 3 even on my stock alternator.

Now for port area, the recommendations for a slot port appear to be around 16in^2 per ft^3. With an aeroport being more efficient, shouldn't I be looking at a little less port area? My brain tells me increasing my aeroport port area to 16^2 would be comparable to like 23in^2 with a typical slot port.

 

[Bobbytwonames]

Hey everyone,

I am planning a build in my 2010 Honda Crosstour and have worked up a design using the max dimensions that I'd like to try to stick to. I am looking at picking up one of the D4S JP23's and running at 1-ohm. Stock alternator - Big 3, Deka 9a34 underhood and Deka 9a31 in the rear for reserve. With stock alternator, I do not see the benefit of trying to drop to 0.5-ohm. Would love the extra power, but hoping this will be enough at 1-ohm in this space for this subwoofer.

With space constraints, I'd like to steer towards an aeroport. In doing research I was having a bit of trouble finding suggestions on using an aeroport in regards to port area for this subwoofer. It seems with slot port designs, the consensus was around running port area on the higher side. Example: 40in^2 for 2.5ft^2 --> 16in^2 per ft^3. I'm aware that calculating per ft^3 isn't a rule, but I tried to translate that to basic aeroport rules I'm familiar with and using a 6" aeroport in 2.5ft^3, I came up with around 11in^2 per ft^3 which in the past for me has seemed to be the upper end of general aeroport port ratio on recommendations.

I do not have much experience with the Sundown X-Series specifically, so I am wide open to feedback or suggestions.

Net Volume: 2.54ft^3
Tuning Frequency: 32.21Hz
Port Area: 28.26in^2
Port Area Per Foot: 11.13in^2

When I see the World record holders running aeroports then I will run them.

 

[shredder2]

AJP23h

Just focusing on a single sub for this build, I'm leaning towards the JP23 V2 so hopefully it has me in the ballpark for the right power - the dyno numbers look great doing about 900 watts over the older versions. The older versions included a 12.4V rating of 2k which I'd like to try to hold my voltage to with the Deka batteries and big 3 even on my stock alternator.

Now for port area, the recommendations for a slot port appear to be around 16in^2 per ft^3. With an aeroport being more efficient, shouldn't I be looking at a little less port area? My brain tells me increasing my aeroport port area to 16^2 would be comparable to like 23in^2 with a typical slot port.

That size aero should be fine on your power in that airspace. I love aeros but they come in fixed sizes and can be either a touch under what's needed or excessively oversized.

 

[Cashdollar2009]

Exploring the fixed size challenge of aeroports, I played around with an 8" port to see what I'd be looking at.

If I increase my enclosure size to net ~ 2.5ft^3 with an 8" aeroport, that gives me ~ 50in^2 of port area/19.24in^2 per ft^3. I'd have to bend the port twice to fit it in the enclosure, which would be it's own battle.

I'm only questioning this route because that's more port area than the suggested slot port. And with aeroports being more efficient than slot ports, I'm concerned with that much port area I may run into unloading issues and an incredibly narrow frequency response. (My past experience with that much port area on my DC Audio XL's, also understanding that those are completely different subs than the Sundown X's.)

Side note, that big tub was just me dragging the cutout down in Sketchup to make sure I had motor clearance above the port. I wouldn't be putting a tube around the sub in the box. That was a concern somewhere else that I posted this question so figured I'd address it here.

 

[TheRadio]

Since aeroports are more efficient you don't need as much port area. 8-12sq inches of port area per square ft of volume is a general rule of thumb you can use for areoport area.

Always be sure sure to model port velocity before building, especially with high excursion high power subs.

 

[Cashdollar2009]

Okay update...

After using Triticum's Port Calculator to find min/optimal port area, I then played around in Torres Calc to see how close I could both actually fit the length needed and then have my total port length below the 44" suggestion, then modeled it into WinISD to check port velocity.

Net Volume: 2.60 ft^3
Tuning Frequency: 32.34 Hz
Port Area: 48.75 in^2
Port Area/Ft^3: 18.74 in^2 (Did not base target off of this, focused on total port area for the space, leaving for reference if anyone cares.)

I have just under 1" of clearance below the pole vent and the top of the port.

 

[audiobaun]

Interesting thread.

 

[shredder2]

Just me, but I'd just do it like this in that vehicle. That hatch will help a ton.
I'm not saying what you have come up with is a fail or anything but for me the simplicity of the build leaves me more energy for other things. Like electrical, deadening and maybe trimming it out.

I already have this design sold and built so if you can fit the width and you don't want to fight generating cutsheets and mechanical drawings I'll gladly send it to you for a song... Hmu