suggestions for high efficient amp for obsidian 15 D2.

[CAT MAN 5,000+ posts]

im telling you now stay away from AP .... the mini amps are OK but only for 750w....same goes for the 1500. they are cheap trash and deserve to be treated like it

 

[pro-rabbit 5,000+ posts]

nope

Yes, adding a battery is only putting a band aid on the real issue.

 

[ThatChevyGuy 5,000+ posts]

maybe. its a battery tho. and isn't adding another battery just like putting a band aid on? doesn't rele solve the problem just solves it for a while? because my alt will still only be putting out 80a and then it needs to charge 2 batts. isn't that just more stress on it?

Fast charge/discharge. They really work well man. I had stock everything no big 3 with 4 gauge on 2400 rms. Voltage dropped, dimming like crazy, truck shut OFF once. Got a kinetic 1400 and hardly any dimming 13.8 was as low as my voltage dropped. Now you can't go hammer on it for hours straight.

 

[pro-rabbit 5,000+ posts]

I'm going to try that with the eld. but a little help from a more efficient amp, and the big 3 and doing the eld upgrade stuff like that will help a little at a time. so idk. will switching out the amp rele help? ik u just said it prbly won't solve the issue, but will it help towards solving my problems?

No, in this case swapping amps will not change the situation. You will need a new alt to keep up with your system. Not much else can be done. You can use a better battery up front and a second in back, but that really is only covering up the real issue you have, which is the alt.

 

[CAT MAN 5,000+ posts]

Yes, adding a battery is only putting a band aid on the real issue.

oh ok i get it. i dont need a battery bank to store my alts power.

it is in no way just a ''band aid''

 

[pro-rabbit 5,000+ posts]

oh ok i get it. i dont need a battery bank to store my alts power.
it is in no way just a ''band aid''

It is in this case. If your alt can not keep up with you have now, adding a battery only works until that battery dies off from the same original issue.

Trying to use sarcasm helps no one. Please take that to the dome where it belongs.

 

[CAT MAN 5,000+ posts]

It is in this case. If your alt can not keep up with you have now, adding a battery only works until that battery dies off from the same original issue.
Trying to use sarcasm helps no one. Please take that to the dome where it belongs.

that amp is only drawing 100a max. he has an 80 amp alt if its a civic. thats 40a available to the amp(not including the batt). upgrading would be worthless for this kind of setup.

 

[Mr.meyhem 10+ year member]

so it "covers up the problem" it for a daily driver running no more than 1500w it will basically solve my problem right? ill prbly stick with the apsm 1300. so upgrade my batt in front and in back. do the eld bypass, and imma redo my grounds on my big 3. this should help keep voltage up, reduce dimming, and help me get more power outta my system?

 

[IonRL205 10+ year member]

Need a bigger alternator. Swapping amps will just lead you back to where you began, minus the emptyness it gave your pockets. Your electrical cannot support your system and with a new amp your electrical still won't be able to support your system unless you drop in power which I'm sure you don't want.

Get a new alt and then you should be fine, but honestly you don't really have any other options. As much as you wanna try, there really isn't a way around this.

 

[CAT MAN 5,000+ posts]

so it "covers up the problem" it for a daily driver running no more than 1500w it will basically solve my problem right? ill prbly stick with the apsm 1300. so upgrade my batt in front and in back. do the eld bypass, and imma redo my grounds on my big 3. this should help keep voltage up, reduce dimming, and help me get more power outta my system?

anything 1500rms and under usually only needs a second batt.. now if you were going all out i would start yelling alt . but not yet. a simple cheap shuriken bt20 might even hold you

 

[CAT MAN 5,000+ posts]

Ok what is your voltage drop in the first place. ? also what year/model civic do you have.

 

[Mr.meyhem 10+ year member]

plus i have a cadence 250.2 so they are getting prbly 30a and 10a... I've heard getting an h/o alt can mess up ur electrical tho... and idk how to install unless its just taking the screws out belt off and un hooking the plugs then doing in reverse with the new one. and a h/o alt messes with ur fuel efficiency right? takes more horses to run it. out of the like 5 hp my lil 4 cylinder does lol

 

[Fi_ 10+ year member]

that amp is only drawing 100a max. he has an 80 amp alt if its a civic. thats 40a available to the amp(not including the batt). upgrading would be worthless for this kind of setup.

Yeah but the AP requires 14.4v just to run properly without clipping and if it's ****** as you claim that makes matters even worse... Chances are hes clipping like crazy if he drops anywhere below 14v and is tuned for the amplifiers full power You also didn't factor that he is PROBABLY running a 4 channel as well. A battery IS a bandaid and I can vouch this considering I have a similar setup with an EFFICIENT amplifier and I still have killed alternators. If this guy tried running at .5 ohm hes just asking for trouble and dimming will be the least of his problems.

Dude simply invest in a battery I ran the aP1500.1D and while it's not the greatest amplifier it gets the job done. No 1200w amplifier is going to stop dimming now matter how efficient if you don't have decent electrical to back it. Like I said I run big 3 a good batt and 0 gauge with a good amplifier and I still get drop and dimming, before the battery it was way worse.

 

[Mr.meyhem 10+ year member]

i figure ill get my tax return and get a new box. double baffled, 27hertz. 3.5 cubes. carpeted and lettering on it. so that'll eat up the tax return. $150-$200 then I'm getting $110 for my old sub. plus maybe putting $40 bucks a month towards it. so it'll take me like 11 months to have the money for a mechman... **** lol... other alt companies are cheaper tho? and also make an exact fit model?

 

[CAT MAN 5,000+ posts]

Yeah but the AP requires 14.4v just to run properly without clipping and if it's ****** as you claim that makes matters even worse... Chances are hes clipping like crazy if he drops anywhere below 14v and is tuned for the amplifiers full power You also didn't factor that he is PROBABLY running a 4 channel as well. A battery IS a bandaid and I can vouch this considering I have a similar setup with an EFFICIENT amplifier and I still have killed alternators. If this guy tried running at .5 ohm hes just asking for trouble and dimming will be the least of his problems.
Dude simply invest in a battery I ran the aP1500.1D and while it's not the greatest amplifier it gets the job done. No 1200w amplifier is going to stop dimming now matter how efficient if you don't have decent electrical to back it. Like I said I run big 3 a good batt and 0 gauge with a good amplifier and I still get drop and dimming, before the battery it was way worse.

no one yet has explained how its a bandaid? i hold 14.4 full tilt on my mb quart EASY with a redtop starter and hc2000 in the rear with a 105a alt and i dont have my eld bypass active....its a hell of a bandaid

dont forget im also running a 120x4 4 channel