Subs running hot with new amp. Advice?

[NIHL8ION]

So you think maybe it would be safe for me to crank these subs back up to 1600W where I had them? Cuz that's what I was running them at before I felt them that hot, then I was like "uh oh, too much". But if it's normal for the SA line to get that outrageously hot and still perform fine then alright.....also if the subs continue to get considerably louder with each bump of the volume does that mean they are still NOT clipping or at risk of burning up? Or is that just a myth? Cuz when I was running them hard the other night they just kept getting louder and I kept playin em till I felt how hot they were and it scared the be-jesus out of me haha.

- Turn your bass boost all the way off, turn your remote gain all the way up and your HU sub level all the way up, if you have the LPF set on your HU run that around 63 or 80 and turn the LPF on the amp all the way up, if no LPF is set on the HU then set it to about 80hz on your amp, zero out your EQ, loud off, 3/4 volume and then set your gain, you shouldn't need more than 1200 - 1500 for a daily setup though //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif Try that and check again, they are normal to bui;ld up some heat and get warm / hot after hard use, but not to the point they are going to melt lol

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

try to up both your amp's gains up a bit and back down the volume on the head unit to where you only need to go to 20-24 for full listening volume out of 35 and see if there's a change in heat.

 

[gamehawk55 10+ year member]

- Turn your bass boost all the way off, turn your remote gain all the way up and your HU sub level all the way up, if you have the LPF set on your HU run that around 63 or 80 and turn the LPF on the amp all the way up, if no LPF is set on the HU then set it to about 80hz on your amp, zero out your EQ, loud off, 3/4 volume and then set your gain, you shouldn't need more than 1200 - 1500 for a daily setup though //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif Try that and check again, they are normal to bui;ld up some heat and get warm / hot after hard use, but not to the point they are going to melt lol

EQ is usually always run flat on the bass on the HU. Except sometimes I will tune the parametric EQ down a couple notches at 100hz with a Width of 1.00. I never use BB (I know better). Crossed at 80hz on HU. Loud off (Again I know better). Amp is tuned with sub level at 0 on HU. It goes from -50 to +10 (silly kenwood). I like to have a little room to play with the sub level for different music.

Everything is tuned as properly as it could possibly be without the use of an O-scope. I'm still a little curious why my amp gets hot on one side but not the other though.

 

[NIHL8ION]

EQ is usually always run flat on the bass on the HU. Except sometimes I will tune the parametric EQ down a couple notches at 100hz with a Width of 1.00. I never use BB (I know better). Crossed at 80hz on HU. Loud off (Again I know better). Amp is tuned with sub level at 0 on HU. It goes from -50 to +10 (silly kenwood). I like to have a little room to play with the sub level for different music.
Everything is tuned as properly as it could possibly be without the use of an O-scope. I'm still a little curious why my amp gets hot on one side but not the other though.

- Not sure about that, but it does seem to be that your electrical is straining under the load that amp demands when you crank on it, and that will definitely cause more heat...

 

[gamehawk55 10+ year member]

- Not sure about that, but it does seem to be that your electrical is straining under the load that amp demands when you crank on it, and that will definitely cause more heat...

Will 13v cause THAT much more heat?

 

[NIHL8ION]

Will 13v cause THAT much more heat?

I'd be willing to bet your are dropping well into the mid to low 12's at full tilt with low rpm and/or idling...

 

[gamehawk55 10+ year member]

I'd be willing to bet your are dropping well into the mid to low 12's at full tilt with low rpm and/or idling...

Not according to my DMM and the battery gauge on the T2500 amp.

 

[NIHL8ION]

Not according to my DMM and the battery gauge on the T2500 amp.

That's always good, but if you are still running a stock alt, that amp is pulling all that alt can put out and then some (Remember the car uses a considerable amount of the stock alt's output in addition to your added amps / accessories)

 

[gamehawk55 10+ year member]

That's always good, but if you are still running a stock alt, that amp is pulling all that alt can put out and then some (Remember the car uses a considerable amount of the stock alt's output in addition to your added amps / accessories)

So if I was running at a solid 14.4v would everything run considerably cooler? Or would it be not that big of a difference?

 

[NIHL8ION]

So if I was running at a solid 14.4v would everything run considerably cooler? Or would it be not that big of a difference?

I'm pretty confident it would, main thing is having a supply of what it's demanding, otherwise you're just going to drop voltage & drain down your battery //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 

[DRS0105]

Are you using a bass knob? From what I've read the knobs available for that amp aren't gain knobs but bass boost knobs. If you got that cranked it can definitely cause some issues

 

[RoYALbLUE08 10+ year member]

my voltage always drops below 13 lol its like on 11.8-12.2 is the lowest it goes while driving. oddly while idling and playing music on level 28-30/40 it stays around 12.8-13+ volts i need to get a second battery

 

[gamehawk55 10+ year member]

Are you using a bass knob? From what I've read the knobs available for that amp aren't gain knobs but bass boost knobs. If you got that cranked it can definitely cause some issues

No I don't use a knob with specifically for that reason because I know its just a boost knob and I NEVER use any kind of boost or add any bass via the EQ or anything that would introduce a dirty signal. I've done my homework fairly well.

 

[gamehawk55 10+ year member]

I'm pretty confident it would, main thing is having a supply of what it's demanding, otherwise you're just going to drop voltage & drain down your battery //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

Well maybe I'll have to see if I can get an external regulator installed to crank up my charging voltage a bit. Do you know specifically where I could go to get that done? I don't know if I would be confident enough to install it myself.

 

[gamehawk55 10+ year member]

Does anybody have experience with changing an ECM controlled/internally regulated electrical system to external regulation? Is it generally fairly safe or is there a lot of danger of running into major problems? My vehicle is a 2007 Pontiac G6 GT. I talked to an auto electric shop and they said they could do it but could end up fuc*ing up my whole car by doing it.