Sub upgrade worthwhile ?

[Dttocs]

Been doing a little budget build in my suzuki swift sport.
Some parts were from previous vehicle.
The sub is a kicker comp s 10" that was in a compact kicker box that fitted behind the seat in my last vehicle.
To keep a bit of boot space ( not much to begin with) i made a sunken box/rack etc.
Its sealed around 0.8 cub ft.
Running a pioneer Gm D8701 mono block for power. Thinking of putting in a DD audio 510.
Current sub is 4 ohm ( amp 300w @ 4ohm)
A DD 510 dual 4 ohm would give me 500w rms running at 2ohn.
Been out of car audio for a long time, from memory to gain 3db you need double the power or double the subs.
Obviously not after a spl monster just a good sq setup.
Very limited space and depth to box ( the DD is correct depth)
But will I get a noticeable kick ?

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[djdilliodon!]

Been doing a little budget build in my suzuki swift sport.
Some parts were from previous vehicle.
The sub is a kicker comp s 10" that was in a compact kicker box that fitted behind the seat in my last vehicle.
To keep a bit of boot space ( not much to begin with) i made a sunken box/rack etc.
Its sealed around 0.8 cub ft.
Running a pioneer Gm D8701 mono block for power. Thinking of putting in a DD audio 510.
Current sub is 4 ohm ( amp 300w @ 4ohm)
A DD 510 dual 4 ohm would give me 500w rms running at 2ohn.
Been out of car audio for a long time, from memory to gain 3db you need double the power or double the subs.
Obviously not after a spl monster just a good sq setup.
Very limited space and depth to box ( the DD is correct depth)
But will I get a noticeable kick ?

the DD sub should have more noticeable output. What those subs going for these days price wise? Maybe depending on what they are selling for a better option is available.

 

[Slo_Ride 5,000+ posts]

I seriously doubt it.

 

[Dttocs]

Around the $300 Aus

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Not sure if just tossing a DD sub into a possibly too small prefab box is going to be your silver bullet. It may sound different and may be louder but it should be top priority to be sure you have the correct airspace for your woofers if you want good performance.

 

[Dttocs]

Not sure if just tossing a DD sub into a possibly too small prefab box is going to be your silver bullet. It may sound different and may be louder but it should be top priority to be sure you have the correct airspace for your woofers if you want good performance.

Just going off there recommendations my box is .8 sealed ?

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Just going off there recommendations my box is .8 sealed ?

I did not know DD made anything designed to run in sealed box. Still though, that box is the weak link I think, that's not optimum location for a sub in a trunk and ported box will always gain noticeable output over sealed provided the sub's parameters will work in that alignment.

 

[Dttocs]

I did not know DD made anything designed to run in sealed box. Still though, that box is the weak link I think, that's not optimum location for a sub in a trunk and ported box will always gain noticeable output over sealed provided the sub's parameters will work in that alignment.

To be honest I don't know what optimal would be in the back of my hatchback. But considering people put them everywhere from the spare tyre wheel to the corner of the boot I don't think most subs would be.
The box i built definitely puts out better than the ported box it came in from kicker. With the sub facing the rear of the hatch.
Not sure if I just got lucky or if there box just wasn't great. I'm pretty sure its way undersized for there own minimal ported box recommendations

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

sub facing the rear of the hatch.

Yes, that usually works well or sometimes firing up but as far back as you can get it.

Sorry I thought it was facing up and not all the way back.

Point stands that just switching subs without some sort of plan for doubling power or some major change in the box probably will not deliver any dramatic difference in output. Have very reasonable expectations if you go ahead with this and don't intend to change some other variables now or down the road.

 

[Dttocs]

Yes, that usually works well or sometimes firing up but as far back as you can get it.

Sorry I thought it was facing up and not all the way back.

Point stands that just switching subs without some sort of plan for doubling power or some major change in the box probably will not deliver any dramatic difference in output. Have very reasonable expectations if you go ahead with this and don't intend to change some other variables now or down the road.

Oh it is facing up. When it was in the original box it was facing the rear.
So yeah the main difference would be going from 4ohm (300w) to 2ohm (500w)
Unless I find a 10" sub thats not to deep, 2ohm load with 500w rms power handling that will work in a .8 box and I add a port.
Could be my answer right there. Maybe just leave it as it is as I generally prefer sealed over ported boxes.
Thanks for your help

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

So yeah the main difference would be going from 4ohm (300w) to 2ohm (500w)

This may give you about 2 clicks of the volume knob more output, no guarantees mind you, but should be audible. Weigh that vs whatever a DD sub costs over in your country.