Struggling to find good entry level sub

tsaintw
10+ year member

Junior Member
hey guys,

currently I plan on getting a decent upgrade since all my speakers are blown in my 98 altima. Here is what I've come across so far as decent/cost efficient, but I'm stuck on what type of sub. Also would it be more appropriate to spend more on a sub, amp or less on 2 subs?

CTX65CS - Image Dynamics 6.5" Component Speakers

ONX4.60 - MB Quart 480W RMS, ONYX Series 4-Channel Amplifier OR Q4.80 - MB Quart 480W RMS 4-Channel Q-Series Amplifier

The first max's at 480 watts and the 2nd at 960 Watts. However I only want to spend like 100-150$ on the subs, to make my car sound normal/above average again. Any ideas?

 
First off, don't pay attention to max watt ratings. Only pay attention to RMS. Secondly, if you're getting the ID components, you'll want more than 60-80W RMS.

So, I went to a few online stores and looked around. As for an amp, here: Audio Savings | CADENCE F600-4 1400 WATT 4-CHANNEL CAR AMPLIFIER NEW

Use channels one and two for your speakers, then bridge channels three and four for your sub. You'll want a single 4 ohm voice coil sub so you don't blow up the amp(blow up being an over exaggeration).

As for sub(s), here. SSA Dcon, rated for 300W RMS. SSA Shop - SSA Dcon 12D4 subwoofer300rms

You have the option to choose between single or dual. You'd want single.

Or, you can go with something like a Dayton HF. Dayton Audio RSS315HF-4 12" Reference HF Subwoofer 4 Ohm High Fidelity Reference Series

 
^x2

Are you set on new? That is a good amp and if you look around you can find a very good, slightly used single 4 ohm or even a dual 4 and wire to each coil.

I have my Massive audio D4 CW10 I could do for 125 shipped. Handles 600rms.

 
thanks for the info, I was actually checking out that sub, so atleast I was in the right area. Do you guys think this will put out a crisp sounding system, wicked loud really isn't my intention, louder + nice+ more crisp than stock is. Sorry for all the questions lol, i've been doing research but i love getting actual insight from experienced individuals. - I plan on getting the Clarion CZ500 HU since I have an iphone, I think this is a pretty good one for the price? Also someone said i should look into sound deadening material, i saw prices, will it be worth the expense to use it(not really sure how its used).

As far as the used product. I looked it up and thats a really good deal and I still have a few weeks until ill be investing in all this, but just a few questions how worked in is it, and what are expectations on how long it will function for. I don't mind buying used things by any means, I just get cautious on items like this that could break a few months in, but again i'm a novice so i'm not sure about life expectancy on things like this.

by the way your guys' help will basically influence my purchases. so thanks

 
I would deaden your doors at least and depending on what vehicle you have your trunk. You will get better sound by deadening your doors though.

I'm the 2nd owner of the sub and its only been powered by no more than 500rms clean power. I'm running it in my 66 GTO, which isn't a daily driver, off my 400rms kicker, could easily handle more. Subs got plenty of years of life left in it powered correctly.

 
i'll get back to you on the sub, you guys know like a rough estimate of prices for wires etc to install all of this. My dad an electrician and a few of my buddies who installed their cars will be helping (98 altima by the way). Also is sound deadening material somewhat overkill versus how much my system is worth, I feel like that is for like elite/legit systems- unless you guys feel think i'll have a solid build/foundation with this gear.

 
Deadening will always help and you can probably find some here that has some for $30 to cover your doors. Check audio technix in the dealer section, one roll will be plenty but about 70 shipped. I'll be running only 1500rms off one amp pushing 2 8's and 2 sets of comps and will be deadening my doors and rear.

For wiring, check out if anyone here has any 4ga power for that amp mentioned above, probably 20' to be safe($20-30). A couple feet for ground, fuse holder($5-7) and fuse, 4channel RCAs($15-30) and remote wire(pick up 20' of 18ga or so from local store). You can probably look anywhere from $45-70 for all the wiring mentioned above. I actually have a 4ga fuse holder and fuse I can throw in if you buy my sub.

 
Oh no. Dayton HF require very big boxes. The 12 inch needs 2.7cu ft for perfect q. The 10 inch version requires around 1.7cuft. Clearly, they're not car audio subs. The Dayton HO line could work much better. They had been proven to work well in 0.7cu ft sealed boxes. The only problem is that they're extremely low efficiency subwoofers. You'd have to have a healthy amplifier and/or run two of them. A much better middle ground is Peerless XXLS 12" (not XLS) sold by parts express for about $190. It's has been proven to work in 1 to 1.7cu ft sealed box with SQ comparable to I.D. IDQ and Dayton Reference subs. Efficiency is superb. It will run with a relatively modest amplifier, though its RMS wattage and xmax had been proven to be highly under rated. I'd just buy one of these and forget about finding a perfect sub for years to come.

 
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tsaintw

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