Stressing

yes dont get caught up in the hype of those Cl's, they are worth every penny of the $40-60 they go for around here-most people like them because they're cheap and the majority of them have them in an SPL set up

Mbasis- alot of the time the lil' things can change your staging drastically- you'd be surprised how some hard rubber speaker baffles can improve your mids on those Kappas

You'll definitly enjoy the response of the 10" better, but it sounds like you are missing a way to better fine tune, something another HU or an external crossover/Eq can give you more flexibility

 
As far as upgrading to the 10", right now I have my 8" in a ~0.34cuft (accounting for speaker displacement) truck-style box. If I make a big cut-out in the front of the box and add another MDF board I can mount the 10" out a little further and it will be in a volume of ~0.37cuft. The IDQs recommend 0.3-0.6 for volume with recommended RMS at 250W. As I understand it the smaller the box the more power handling they have.........so will I get sufficient output in 0.37cuft at 225W? I'd hate to build a whole new box.

Where can I get hard rubber baffles for my Kappas? And how do you run the wires? I'm using foam baffles now and they compress to allow the wires to pass by. I had to cut out the bottom of my foam baffles though because they vibrated and played their own little tune. I'd need dimensions because my windows pass behind the speaker when down too.

 
As far as upgrading to the 10", right now I have my 8" in a ~0.34cuft (accounting for speaker displacement) truck-style box. If I make a big cut-out in the front of the box and add another MDF board I can mount the 10" out a little further and it will be in a volume of ~0.37cuft. The IDQs recommend 0.3-0.6 for volume with recommended RMS at 250W. As I understand it the smaller the box the more power handling they have.........so will I get sufficient output in 0.37cuft at 225W? I'd hate to build a whole new box.
Where can I get hard rubber baffles for my Kappas? And how do you run the wires? I'm using foam baffles now and they compress to allow the wires to pass by. I had to cut out the bottom of my foam baffles though because they vibrated and played their own little tune. I'd need dimensions because my windows pass behind the speaker when down too.
The IDQ's are very efficient, that kind of power would be sufficient-

And as for the baffles, Stinger makes good ones, I'm actually waiting for my dealer to put in his Stinger order, when I go to add the baffle I have to touch up a few parts on my door i didn't get to dampen-

 
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mbacis

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