Sronger ground my Vic

[alsa2009 10+ year member]

if you ground to the frame, you need it to be the same capability on both ends. there is usually not a very strong connection to the frame itself, raather to the firewall, via ground-strap from the engine. i think using the floorboard/firewall to pass current is usually the way to go, but that is my opinion. however, i did use the frame on my Toyota to carry the current between all batteries and alternators, but that was an easy access, and 2-part body scenario.

So you're saying that the frame isnt always a good source of ground. Is that why you ground to the frame more than 1 run. Also does it matter how long the ground is to the frame cause i thought the ground suppose to be short.

 

[bhsdriller 10+ year member]

not necessarily for a battery, for the amp you don't want a very long ground.

I have my back batteries grounded to the front one's...that's what 12-13ft

 

[alsa2009 10+ year member]

not necessarily for a battery, for the amp you don't want a very long ground.
I have my back batteries grounded to the front one's...that's what 12-13ft

Thanks dude. Okay this is what my system consist of 2 Kicker zx1500.1's 2 Kicker zx850.2's and a kicker zx350.4, so thats roughly 5000wrms. My question is would the 1 run of 0ga be enough.

The reason I think it would is because my mechman alt is 270Amps. 1 run of 0ga can carry 300Amps of current and alt is 270. Eventhough i have a 5000wrms system its not going to get but the 270amps from the alt right. No need for another run of 0ga right......this is just my theory.

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

So you're saying that the frame isnt always a good source of ground. Is that why you ground to the frame more than 1 run. Also does it matter how long the ground is to the frame cause i thought the ground suppose to be short.

A bad ground will have more resistance than a good ground with longer wire of the right size by far. In many newer cars even if you ground to the frame the resisance is about the same as a 4 ga wire which is worse than running 0 ga back up front.

 

[akheathen Premium Member]

one more factor to look at between fram/floorboard is the elements. the frame is always exposed to moisture and electrolysis, depending on the environment. it can be harder to access, etc. imho, the floor/bulkhead assy can carry more than enough current, and there is no absolute need( in a car/suv) to use the frame. the body of the car only contacts the frame, and has small factory ground straps to the body. it's up to you, really which you want to use. as for the '0 positive run- yes, it can carry the load, but i would personally upgrade it. your car is pretty long. a paired run can work, or flat cable. honestly, i don't know anything about the real-world performance of the flat cable. rule of thumb for me- use cable that is 2x sustained load to keep resistance down. i see cables cooked all the time operating within their rating....

 

[alsa2009 10+ year member]

Okay here we go: see in the first pic where my meter is I had the ground going just behind the

grey carpet down on the frame (about 2ft of ground/1 run)

So what are my options: Run 2 grounds of 0ga from each battery to the frame

Run more grounds to the sheet metal

Run a ground from front batt to the back batts

"akheathen you're suggesting what"

Couple pics of the system

My ground that i have now that i want to change

Some kicker amps thats going to replace some of the other amps. just want my grounds to be stronger first tho

 

[akheathen Premium Member]

what i'm saying, is that if you want to get the current from the alternator to the batteries better, and increase the lifespan of the cables, i would increase the cable size. (positive, and ground should be the same) since the main instantaneous draw will be from the batteries in the rear, the short ground rule applies between the amp and batteries. the alternator will just maintain the batteries, so a longer ground to the batteries isn't as big of deal. now, what i am suggesting is decide for yourself whether you want to use the frame, or floorboard, just remember that you need to beef it up the same in the engine compartment...

 

[akheathen Premium Member]

..... and look at the contact points of what you are grounding to, in relation to the floorpanel. for example, how many little tacks hold that brace on?

 

[alsa2009 10+ year member]

Just talk with my audio guy couple days back. He told me that my big 3 wasnt right. Eventhough my back batts were grounded to the frame the front batt wasnt.....so it was like a open circuit. Thats why i had a low voltage reading of 13.52 because my front batt was still ground to the body. So when i touch the power wire to the rear batts it couldnt hold the load of the amps. Now that i understand a lil better....when i ground my front batt back to the frame along with the rear batts its gone be like 1 big ground loop. Kinda feel better bout the matter now cant wait to see if that works....but any input you guys have would be greatly apprecciated thx

 

[Crownvicon28s 10+ year member]

I have my front battery grounded to the frame, front batt neg. to back battery neg., back batts grounded to the frame. I don't drop below 13v full tilt. Sounds like you got it covered. Where you at in SC?

 

[akheathen Premium Member]

yes, that is what i was trying to say. you need to have it even on both ends. the alternator and all 3 batteries need to carry power(ground) between each-other... so, if you have the rear batteries grouded to the frame, the front battery and alternator needs to get the same amount of ground to the frame....factory grounds to the frame and body just don't cut it...

 

[alsa2009 10+ year member]

yes, that is what i was trying to say. you need to have it even on both ends. the alternator and all 3 batteries need to carry power(ground) between each-other... so, if you have the rear batteries grouded to the frame, the front battery and alternator needs to get the same amount of ground to the frame....factory grounds to the frame and body just don't cut it...

So then I know I must ground the front battery to the frame but....do I ground the alternator to the frame also or can I just ground alt to the neg batt post since the batt is being grounded to the frame.

Or is the alt already grounded to the engine block!!!!

 

[Crownvicon28s 10+ year member]

So then I know I must ground the front battery to the frame but....do I ground the alternator to the frame also or can I just ground alt to the neg batt post since the batt is being grounded to the frame.Or is the alt already grounded to the engine block!!!!

Its already grounded to the engine block, but I grounded mine to the frame anyway at the same spot my front battery is grounded at. Then did a run off of the front batt neg to back batt neg and grounded back batts to frame with amps grounded to back batts.

 

[Louisiana_CRX 5,000+ posts]

probably mentioned I'm not reading though...drop ground from rear to frame same side as battery...front drop extra ground to frame from battery and ground to engine block...with two 1500 watt amps at least a good solid copper 1/0 not that pansy aluminum chinese 4g in a 1/0 cover....

 

[Louisiana_CRX 5,000+ posts]

Its already grounded to the engine block' date=' but I grounded mine to the frame anyway at the same spot my front battery is grounded at. Then did a run off of the front batt neg to back batt neg and grounded back batts to frame with amps grounded to back batts.[/quote']
should be fine if you used quality wire