speakers have no midbass

[timaishu 10+ year member]

I have mach 5 mli-65 mids paired with vc100 tweeters using the blaupunkt crossover. Crossed at 3k with 12 db slope and they are wired to receieved 120wRMS at 4 ohms.

I bought the mach 5's due to them being called mid bass monsters by some. Honestly though, they wont put out any more bass that my old infinitys did.

What should I do to trouble shoot this? My doors are pretty well sealed from the factory. There arent any gaping holes like most car doors are plagued with. I put some damplifer behind the speaker on the outer door panel.

The only thing I could think of is the fact tha I have the mdf baffles are sitting against the door skin with nothing in between?

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[ahole-ic]

I have mach 5 mli-65 mids paired with vc100 tweeters using the blaupunkt crossover. Crossed at 3k with 12 db slope and they are wired to receieved 120wRMS at 4 ohms.
I bought the mach 5's due to them being called mid bass monsters by some. Honestly though, they wont put out any more bass that my old infinitys did.

What should I do to trouble shoot this?

well first start with the basics. Even the most professional installers sometimes reverse the polarity on a single speaker causing massive cancellation. Next, if your connections are all fine and everything is wired properly then something is seriously wrong with your mounting location/enclosure.

 

[mobeious 10+ year member]

what is the highpass on the midbass set at

 

[timaishu 10+ year member]

It is high passed on the HU at 80hz. Ive had it set at 60 also and it made no difference. The crossover's crossover point is 3k.

 

[timaishu 10+ year member]

I will check the polarity. I did it originally with a 9v battery after it was all wired up to make sure the mids move in the same direction when I put + to + and - to - on the battery.

Could it be a sealing issue? I do not have any gasket tape or butyl rope between the baffle and the door skin. I realize that I should have, but would it really make all the midbass disappear doing so?

 

[Slammin666 10+ year member]

Your mid bass is crossed over to play up to 3000hz or down to 3000hz?If its down to 3000hz ding ding ding thats your problem to me mid bass is 60hz and up imo

 

[timaishu 10+ year member]

Its bandpassed at 80-3000hz.

 

[ahole-ic]

I will check the polarity. I did it originally with a 9v battery after it was all wired up to make sure the mids move in the same direction when I put + to + and - to - on the battery.
Could it be a sealing issue? I do not have any gasket tape or butyl rope between the baffle and the door skin. I realize that I should have, but would it really make all the midbass disappear doing so?

I'm with you... it shouldn't. Could you try bypassing the passive crossover for the midbass? I'm wondering if that crossover is the problem. Bandpassing is the perfect scenario for what you're trying to accomplish but, it could actually be the problem right now if it's not doing exactly what we think it should be doing.

 

[T3mpest 10+ year member]

phsycial polarity and acoustic polarity are two very different things. My car is about 4 decibels louder from 60-400hz if I have my midbass speakers wired OUT OF PHASE with one another. Try your mids both ways and it will be obvious which one is correct in your listening position.

 

[mlstrass 5,000+ posts]

Also try adding some EQ at 80Hz. I run the AA CF mids and HPF them at 63hz with some EQ boost there and they have very solid midbass. I'd expect the Mach5's to be no different...

 

[timaishu 10+ year member]

So I would only reverse the polarity on my side I assume. Like the drivers side ofr example? So one woofer is pushing out while the other is going in? Do I reverse only the woofer or do I do it before the crossover so both tweeter and woofer are reversed? Ill also double check to make sure everything is wired correctly in the first place..

Il add some gasket tape or butyl rope to make a seal betwee the door and and mdf while I am at it. Ill try EQ'ing it as well.

EDIT: One thing I forgot to point out is that these things move alot of air. I can feel it throught my speaker grill. Not a worrysome amount. More like what I was expecting going from a factory to an aftermarket mid. So it seems to be moving aloto f air but not putting out much mid bass. Would this be a sealing issue?

 

[duckymcse 10+ year member]

I notice when I move my 6.5" woofer from the front door to the rear trunk, the midbass hit ALOTS stronger. I guess it need alots of air space to achieve strong midbass.

My solution to stronger midbass in the front door is to EQ the frequency range of 80-250hz and set the gain as high as possible without any distortion.

So I would only reverse the polarity on my side I assume. Like the drivers side ofr example? So one woofer is pushing out while the other is going in? Do I reverse only the woofer or do I do it before the crossover so both tweeter and woofer are reversed? Ill also double check to make sure everything is wired correctly in the first place..
Il add some gasket tape or butyl rope to make a seal betwee the door and and mdf while I am at it. Ill try EQ'ing it as well.

EDIT: One thing I forgot to point out is that these things move alot of air. I can feel it throught my speaker grill. Not a worrysome amount. More like what I was expecting going from a factory to an aftermarket mid. So it seems to be moving aloto f air but not putting out much mid bass. Would this be a sealing issue?