Speaker system for my 1938 Ford Truck

[wcriot 10+ year member]

Hey guys,

I just joined here because I have been out of the Car Audio world for a long time and need to refresh my memory and get some new school advice.

I have a 1938 Ford Pickup Truck that I want to upgrade the current stereo system. The previous owner had installed a Secret Audio receiver (Head Unit) which is pretty neat. I have never seen one of these before. It’s only a half inch thick, and has jumper wires that run to a hidden control box which is installed under my passenger seat.

For some reason the antenna is terrible. Is there any way I can correct this? The reception is very poor.

The previous owner has used 2 home theater speakers and placed them under both seats. This obviously sounds terrible. The volume level seems to be very low as well. When I drive the truck on the freeway, I have the head unit volume at full power and I can barely hear the music. But this I can deal with later.

The truck’s cab is very small so I am limited to where I can install new speakers. Also, I don’t want to cut the dash up or anything to install speakers. I would be will to drill small mounting holes and such, but definitely don’t want to ruin the original dash.

In terms of speaker location, I see the following options. Under the seats, behind the seats, maybe one speaker pointing downwards installed under the dash, or the kick panels. I might be able to install some speakers in the door panels (I am willing to cut these), but old cars don’t seal out the water from the windows as well as new cars. So, I would be concerned about water damage, unless there is a safe way to protect them.

I have a 4 channel older style Xtant amplifier that I want to send out and have Xtant repair it for $125 or so. I know these amps are excellent for sound quality.

I also have a 2 channel Power Akcoustic amplifier which I was using to power a 12” subwoofer, that I can use.

I will have to look up specs on each amp, if requested.

I personally don’t think a component speaker system would work, because of my space limitations. I am not looking to have the world’s greatest stereo system. But, I love my music and I like have a nice car stereo. I am going to pull up the carpets and Dynamat as much of the car as possible, the heat from the engine and transmission is pretty annoying.

I guess I can't post pictures right now

Click to read more...

 

[wcriot 10+ year member]

I would really appreciate some advice. I want to post pictures of the truck. But, I guess I cant yet

 

[BlactimusCrime 10+ year member]

i would make/have made some fiberglass kick panels for speakers, they will sound good in that location and will require little to no modification to your sweet azz truck lol

 

[wcriot 10+ year member]

i would make/have made some fiberglass kick panels for speakers, they will sound good in that location and will require little to no modification to your sweet azz truck lol

Thank you for the reply. I was thinking the kick panel appraoch would be the best bet. I know how to fiberglass, as I was in the composites industry for several years. But, I bet I could make some kick panels from MDF alot easier than the fiberglass. Especially because the inside of the truck is so simple, everything is flat or straight edged.

So should I go with a component set? OR a good quality coaxial?

Also, if I only run two speakers. Should I use that Power acoustic Amplifier that I had previously powering my single 12" subwoofer? or something else? Now, Xtant is telling me that they can't repair this amplifier anymore, it's too old!

 

---------- Post added at 09:07 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:07 AM ----------

 

P.S. once I up my post count. I will post pictures. This forum is strict!

 

[dontbeaprix 10+ year member]

I like the boston acoustic and I would go with componets for shure.

 

[wcriot 10+ year member]

I like the boston acoustic and I would go with componets for shure.

Which bouston acoustic set would you reccommend? I just looked at the SE60's and they seem like a pretty good price at $150 for the pair. Would the tweeter be mounted next to the speaker or should it be mounted higher up, like on the a pillar?

Also, do you guys think the Power Acoustik Gothic series aplifier would be a good choice for these speakers? OR, should i leave it to the reciever to output the power for the speakers?

 

[dontbeaprix 10+ year member]

you can get these Boston Acoustics SR60 6-1/2" SR Series 2-way Performance they are way better than the se60. As far as that amp , no it is not good.

A good amp choice for the money would be this:Clarion XR2410 400W, XR Series 4-Channel Amplifier this to 2 channel and turn the gain down.)

 

[dontbeaprix 10+ year member]

you can get these Boston Acoustics SR60 6-1/2" SR Series 2-way Performance they are way better than the se60. As far as that amp , no it is not good.A good amp choice for the money would be this:Clarion XR2410 400W, XR Series 4-Channel Amplifier this to 2 channel and turn the gain down.)

I meant you would bridge the 4 channel amp to 2 channel.

 

[wcriot 10+ year member]

What makes these Clarion speakers so great? Also, why is that amp you mentioned a better choice than the one I have? Just trying to educate myself

 

[wcriot 10+ year member]

One other thing I would like to know. Why did you suggest the Boston Acoustics? I always knew they were decent speakers. But, I always thought MB quarts or Focal's were better

 

[dontbeaprix 10+ year member]

Those boston acoustics are awesome! I have heard many speakers over the years, but for that price range they are hard to beat. As far as mb quart , well they used to be good before maxsonics bought them. I still love their amps on a budget , but their speakers aren't very good anymore. Focal is probably better than bostons, but they are very expensive. I just saw the power acoustic amp mentioned and they arent very good amps. The xtant amp would be ok depending on the wattage , but clarion make very nice amps and that is a good price for that one.

If you have a audio shop around you should check out some speakers and see what you think(and i don't mean barf buy).

 

[wcriot 10+ year member]

Thanks for the speaker/amp advice. I was hoping to utilize what I had for an amp.

One question I would like to ask. How are these boston acoustics for bass? I don't have a subwoofer and I doubt I will add one.

FOR THE SPEAKERS. I don't think I can have kickpanels added in. The leg room is already so crampped that a speaker sticking out from the kick panel is going to be in the way and get kicked ALOT

I can't cut a hole in the sheetmetal of the interior of the cab, BECAUSE that sheetmetal is also the exterior of the cab and will cut right through the body //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

I need to figure out a new location. What about a above ym front windshield?

 

[Gary S 10+ year member]

Your best speaker locations are

#1 - kick panels

#2 - Bottom-front of doors.

- if you go in the doors, for weather resistance, make some kind of half-cup to go above the basket when you install them. Also, buy some that are not too expensive so that if they do wear out from the elements after a couple years, your replacement cost is not so bad.

I also recommend a component speaker set. The coaxes don't have a full passive crossover like component speakers do, this is very important.

If you don't want a separate hole for a tweeter, look at what's called a convertible component set, where the tweeter can be mounted separately or in the midbass driver... these will have a complete, separate crossover but give the the speaker mounting ease of a coax. Look at Powerbass 3XL components - they are convertible, similar to the Focal K series in sound, but sell for half the price.

 

[wcriot 10+ year member]

Your best speaker locations are #1 - kick panels

#2 - Bottom-front of doors.

- if you go in the doors, for weather resistance, make some kind of half-cup to go above the basket when you install them. Also, buy some that are not too expensive so that if they do wear out from the elements after a couple years, your replacement cost is not so bad.

I also recommend a component speaker set. The coaxes don't have a full passive crossover like component speakers do, this is very important.

If you don't want a separate hole for a tweeter, look at what's called a convertible component set, where the tweeter can be mounted separately or in the midbass driver... these will have a complete, separate crossover but give the the speaker mounting ease of a coax. Look at Powerbass 3XL components - they are convertible, similar to the Focal K series in sound, but sell for half the price.

Your best speaker locations are #1 - kick panels

#2 - Bottom-front of doors.

- if you go in the doors, for weather resistance, make some kind of half-cup to go above the basket when you install them. Also, buy some that are not too expensive so that if they do wear out from the elements after a couple years, you replacement cost is not so bad.

I also recommend a component speaker set. The coaxes don't have a full passive crossover like component speakers do, this is very important.

If you don't want a separate hole for a tweeter, look at what's called a convertible component set, where the tweeter can be mounted separately or in the midbass driver... these will have a complete, separate crossover but give the the speaker mounting ease of a coax. Look at Powerbass 3XL components - they are convertible, similar to the Focal K series in sound, but sell for half the price.

Great post. Very Helpful.

How do I make sure that my Half Cup would be the proper size for the speaker? Should I just make a Cup that compeltely covers AND NOT worry about the amount of available air for the speaker to push?

This would be quit a bit of work, BUT I am starting to think that this is the only solution.

The **** truck is so small, that it would be difficult to do much else. I was thinking a spaker bar above the front windshield would work, but I have never seen something like that or speakers smaller enough to fit!

 

[Gary S 10+ year member]

Doors are your best bet.... for an overhead speaker bar... once you go to 4" or smaller speakers, efficiency and bandwidth/midbass drops... you don't want it to sound like a clock radio.

Take a look at this link for speaker baffles:

speaker baffles - Google Search

- Or you could find a Tupperware bowl with a lip that matches the mounting ring of the speaker, cut it in half, and drill a couple holes for the top two speaker screws, then sandwich it in between speaker and door... you'll have an instant umbrella for your speaker.

Whatever you use for a baffle, I would cut it in half or port it so the speaker can vent into the door... a sealed baffle is too small, they need more air space than that.

For car speakers, stay away from foam surrounds and paper cones... all other types will be more weather resistant.

Another option... if you are really concerned about them getting wet, you could go with marine speakers! They are just like car speakers but more weather resistant.