sound deadening pros.......

[Bob Saget]

Needing a little input on deadening my Jeep GC. I don't want to spend the money or time to completely gut the entire vehicle & deaden in, but I don't want a rattle trap either. I'm not worried about road noise etc, I just want to get rid of the vibrations caused by subs. I have completely deadened my front doors & sealed them off for my mids & my liscense plate is deadened & secured down with 4 bolts.

Now I'm ready to deaden the interior but I'm not sure on how much to buy or what all needs covered. I'm running a single SA-12, ported, @ roughly 800w RMS. I know I could just dampen obvious spots & see how it sounds, but I'd rather try to get it covered & be done with it. I planned on taking the panels off the rear gate & giving it a couple layers, as well as expanding foam on the plastic panel itself, since that is where the sub/port will be facing. Same goes for the two panels in the cargo area. Other than that, will I need to dampen anything else to get rid of vibrations? Road noise doesn't bother me so I see no point in deadening that, I'm pretty sure that isn't gonna rattle. Will the roof/headliner be alright? Anywhere else?

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[Bob Saget]

anybodys?

 

[tylork92 10+ year member]

it pretty much is just dampen what you think needs it go from there as each vehicle varies as to what rattles. however, the best starting spots are the doors, headliner, and back hatch.

 

[SpeedEuphoria 10+ year member]

yup most important are the largest flat pannels, roof, doors, hatch maybe rear quarters lastly the floor

 

[Rudy 10+ year member]

In addition to vibration damper for the sheet metal, you'll probably want to line the backs of plastic trim panels with closed cell foam to prevent rattles.

 

[Bob Saget]

In addition to vibration damper for the sheet metal, you'll probably want to line the backs of plastic trim panels with closed cell foam to prevent rattles.

I was gonna fill the back side of the plastic panels with expanding foam, same effect? I can get all the expanding foam I want for pretty much nothing.

 

[Rudy 10+ year member]

I was gonna fill the back side of the plastic panels with expanding foam' date=' same effect? I can get all the expanding foam I want for pretty much nothing.[/quote']
Not really. It would be similar if you use latex expanding foam but that's probably not a good idea because it absorbs moisture. If you use a urethane foam, it will cure hard. If you inject it behind the panel it will lock it down and prevent rattles but you'll have a tough time every removing that panel. If you line the sheet metal with plastic so you can remove the trim panel afterward you will have a hard surface against a hard surface, probably rattles and squeaks. The idea behind a gasketing material like CCF is that it will compress slightly behind the panel and prevent the panel and sheet metal behind it from making contact, isolating the two hard surfaces from each other.

 

[Bob Saget]

Not really. It would be similar if you use latex expanding foam but that's probably not a good idea because it absorbs moisture. If you use a urethane foam, it will cure hard. If you inject it behind the panel it will lock it down and prevent rattles but you'll have a tough time every removing that panel. If you line the sheet metal with plastic so you can remove the trim panel afterward you will have a hard surface against a hard surface, probably rattles and squeaks. The idea behind a gasketing material like CCF is that it will compress slightly behind the panel and prevent the panel and sheet metal behind it from making contact, isolating the two hard surfaces from each other.

How much CCF would be needed to cover the hatch door & 2 side panels in the cargo area?

 

[Rudy 10+ year member]

How much CCF would be needed to cover the hatch door & 2 side panels in the cargo area?

Depends how you do it. You really only need to cover the contact points. You could probably do that with a roll or two of self-adhesive weatherstripping from a hardware store. I usually line the entire panel to control resonance in the plastic, by applying pressure across the entire surface, at the same time but it sounds like rattles are your primary focus.

 

[Bob Saget]

Depends how you do it. You really only need to cover the contact points. You could probably do that with a roll or two of self-adhesive weatherstripping from a hardware store. I usually line the entire panel to control resonance in the plastic, by applying pressure across the entire surface, at the same time but it sounds like rattles are your primary focus.

Rattles are really all I'm concerned with. Besides road noise from the wheels the Jeep is pretty sound, atleast compared to my previous cars...Z28 Camaro & Mustang Cobra, which rattled like crazy.

As I said before, I already have my front doors sealed off & completely deadened to get good midbass response. Other than that, I just want to eliminate rattling. I can't stand listening to a sub covered by annoying rattles. If I can get it down enough to where I can bump my sub without rattles, I'll be more than happy.

I'm not trying to get into SPL, & definitely not SQ, just want to avoid rattling panels.

 

[Roadnoise]

Audioholic posted that he uses concrete but he needs to post his reciepe. I imagine a thin layer of fiber-crete, perhaps with styrofoam broken up in a blender to lighten it, at a thickness of a quarter inch or so, padding under and on top. For concrete mixture see: STYROFOAM

 

[Rudy 10+ year member]

Audioholic posted that he uses concrete but he needs to post his reciepe. I imagine a thin layer of fiber-crete, perhaps with styrofoam broken up in a blender to lighten it, at a thickness of a quarter inch or so, padding under and on top. For concrete mixture see: STYROFOAM

A little extreme for just killing some rattles //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif