sometimes, things piss me off and then turn into rewarding experiences

[JimJ 5,000+ posts]

Because those are probably the worst places to brace...that little piece at top isn't going to do much, if anything. For bracing to be really effective, you need to increase the lateral strength across the panel...any flex is going to be at the widest unbraced spots on the panel.

 

[vosschs 5,000+ posts]

Because those are probably the worst places to brace...that little piece at top isn't going to do much, if anything. For bracing to be really effective, you need to increase the lateral strength across the panel...any flex is going to be at the widest unbraced spots on the panel.

exactly, those 2 spots will accomplish anything, a peice of MDF that is 3/4 by 3/4 will bend like nothing, you wont be able to pull it apart end on end, but it will bend , the only thing those 2 will accomplish is that the front and back stay in tact at the top, hence it could still flex EASILY

oh, and why the 1 5/8 screws? 1 1/4 would do you fine if you use glue

 

[PV Audio 5,000+ posts]

im sorry but with all the tools you have access too, things should be better than they look, with the DA sander you flushed up the edges but you didnt sand the middle to make it look decent "unless your covering with carpet, then you wouldnt even need to worry about making it that flush", also on that pic where it was routered you can see a spot where you didnt apply enough pressure or keep the router level, haha, o well you wont see none of that shit, either way it will look nice with the sub in and it covered with whatever

did you even bother to think that just perhaps JUST perhaps changing routers mid cut might make it a wee bit scraggly? as for my tools, they aren't anything special. i have a POS table saw, a 20 dollar jig saw, a circular saw a good drill and now an excellent router. i don't know what else you want from me...

 

[PV Audio 5,000+ posts]

Because those are probably the worst places to brace...that little piece at top isn't going to do much, if anything. For bracing to be really effective, you need to increase the lateral strength across the panel...any flex is going to be at the widest unbraced spots on the panel.

hmm i understand that, but i'm already pressed for air and a shelf brace is NOT an option, so i tried to do the next best thing //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[vosschs 5,000+ posts]

did you even bother to think that just perhaps JUST perhaps changing routers mid cut might make it a wee bit scraggly? as for my tools, they aren't anything special. i have a POS table saw, a 20 dollar jig saw, a circular saw a good drill and now an excellent router. i don't know what else you want from me...

im just trying to help ya out //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 

[PV Audio 5,000+ posts]

exactly, those 2 spots will accomplish anything, a peice of MDF that is 3/4 by 3/4 will bend like nothing, you wont be able to pull it apart end on end, but it will bend , the only thing those 2 will accomplish is that the front and back stay in tact at the top, hence it could still flex EASILY
oh, and why the 1 5/8 screws? 1 1/4 would do you fine if you use glue

because i want to? i use glue as you can see in the pictures. *******, there is a fine line with constructive criticism on one side, and the other side is nitpicking.

 

[vosschs 5,000+ posts]

because i want to? i use glue as you can see in the pictures. *******, there is a fine line with constructive criticism on one side, and the other side is nitpicking.

thats all im trying to do, it looks fine man, im just giving you some shit

 

[PV Audio 5,000+ posts]

lol i know you are, but what i NEED is suggestions like u did with the bracing, instead of the screws. things to make it better that are large, instead of the length of the fasteners //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[vosschs 5,000+ posts]

lol i know you are, but what i NEED is suggestions like u did with the bracing, instead of the screws. things to make it better that are large, instead of the length of the fasteners //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

couldnt you have just put bracing from the center of the top to the center of the bottom, like a 1.5 by 1.5 square

 

[PV Audio 5,000+ posts]

say what?

 

[vosschs 5,000+ posts]

imagine this going from the top to the bottom

 

[PV Audio 5,000+ posts]

i see, but if i'm bracing for resonance, why would i want do brace top to bottom versus baffle to baffle?

 

[vosschs 5,000+ posts]

i see, but if i'm bracing for resonace, why would i want do brace top to bottom versus baffle to baffle?

i dont really know what that means, but the only problem ive had with bracing was the top and bottom, thats where the most surface area is for the boxes i have built, its usually the area with the most surface area that will flex

 

[PV Audio 5,000+ posts]

ok well, flexing and resonance. but i do understand what u are saying and i shall make an attempt. i have a feeling i'm not going to like this box, i didn't like it since i started it (first post)

 

[vosschs 5,000+ posts]

ok well, flexing and resonance. but i do understand what u are saying and i shall make an attempt. i have a feeling i'm not going to like this box, i didn't like it since i started it (first post)

eh, it dont look to shabby at all, why not try it before you cover it or do whatever with it you are going to do, try it out see if it flexes, if it does then add that brace