So I have a good old Cadence txa-300-4

[JuicyJeff 10+ year member]

These are the specs

Cadence Sound Systems

TXA-3004

4 CHANNEL HIGH POWER AMPLIFIER

4 x 75 WATTS RMS @ 4 OHMS

4 x 150 WATTS RMS @ 2 OHMS

2 x 300 WATTS RMS @ 4 OHMS

* FREE BASS REMOTE *

SPECIFICATIONS:

4 Ohm RMS Power: 4 x 75 Watts

2 Ohm RMS Power: 4 x 150 Watts

4 Ohm Bridged RMS Power: 2 x 300 Watts

Frequency Response: 20Hz - 30,000Hz

S/N Ratio: >100 db

Damping Factor: >200 @ 100Hz

Minimum THD:

Dimensions: 17" x 9.2" x 2.12"

FEATURES:

High Speed Mosfet Power Supply

Studio Grade Bipolar Output Stage transistors

Fully Adjustable 18dB/Octave Crossover

Fully Adjustable Bass and Treble EQ Controls

Adjustable Input Gain 170mV-5V

2 Ohm Stereo Stable

4 Ohm Mono Bridgeable

3 Channel Mixed Mono Capable

Power and Protection LED Indicators

Full IC Controlled Protection Circuitry

Mute and Soft Delay Circuitr

Lucite Encapsulated Terminals

I'm looking at a Jl 12w3 on Craigslist and those subs take 500 rms. I'm wondering if this amp could work so that I can sell my p3 and my p500-2 as a set. I used to have a lot of know-how here, but my interest died when I ran out of money. Now I'm feeling like getting back in the game and want to know this basically:

If I take 4 Ohm Bridged RMS Power: 2 x 300 Watts

And put those together to the sub, I would have 600 watts at 4 ohms?

Also, With my p3 on my 500-2, I have it wired at 8 ohms. Its a 4 ohm sub. Is there a better way to wire this? Wired at 2 ohms it was poppin fuses and actin up. Would the txa be better suited on the p3, because it is a 4 ohm sub?

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[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

you'd want a dual 4 ohm sub for the 300-4 to bridge the channels and power each coil separately.

you need to match the sub with the amp.

you could also just buy a dual 2 ohm sub to run off your 500-2.

 

[JuicyJeff 10+ year member]

so this whole time, the txa coulda been feeding my p3 much more efficiently than the p500-2? As the 500-2 is running the p3 at 8 ohms

And if I power each coil seperately, isn't it bad if the knobs are a little off for each channel? I don't even know how I'd do each seperately anyways, care to explain? There's only one terminal on the back of the box.

 

[JuicyJeff 10+ year member]

anyone?

 

[JuicyJeff 10+ year member]

I'd like to know this. after driving around for over a year with my rockford p500-2 running the sub at 8 ohms, I am wondering if there could be more power to the sub with the cadence

 

[matt_bennett05 10+ year member]

Why not test it out for yourself and see which one you prefer? I wish I could tell you but honestly I'm not too sure either way as to which would actually work better in your application.

 

[JuicyJeff 10+ year member]

I need to know how to wire that

 

[matt_bennett05 10+ year member]

If it were me I would take the box terminal off and rewire it so that each coil has a + and - run of wire.... That way it's pretty much fail proof for checking it out and seeing which amp you prefer //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/thumbsupwink.gif.129404938effda6ad9cca39e7f4b58a3.gif

 

[JuicyJeff 10+ year member]

this is true. But how would I get the full 600 out of the cadence, on a d4 sub?

 

[matt_bennett05 10+ year member]

I would think the cadence is optimally bridged at 4 ohm per (front & rear). Since you have a dual 4 ohm sub just run one "set of + and - " from each coil to each output on the amp (one set to rear, bridged & one set to front, bridged)

 

[JuicyJeff 10+ year member]

Ahhh, I wonder what the subs been getting all these years, 250 watts? lol

 

[matt_bennett05 10+ year member]

Not enough. Gave my dad one to run in his ext. cab silverado on a 1000bd and it's ok.... I'm just not a big fan of their new sub lineup

 

[JuicyJeff 10+ year member]

Its an older p3, and I am impressed after 5 years, its still going like day 1