Skar audio VVX15 8cft box buildness

cannot view videos at work (yes, i dropped in to scan a few drawings, started surfing, need to go home).
unless you used a calibrated measurement mic instead of a camera mic, i'm not sure what the videos will tell me...
lol no, just a 1080p recording off my phone, I'm not fancy with an spl meter or anything like that, I am planning on metering it sometime soon though so the better adjusted this build is the better thanks for the help to you and the others minus the trolls.

 
@keep_hope_alive
with it sealed within the cabin (which it already was I guess since the trunk wasn't 100% sealed since you could see the sub through the speaker hole) would this hole be adequate enough for the cone issue? or could I drill more holes in the sheet metal (minus damaging the carpet)
20120424_182405.jpg


And I'll be uploading another video of some music with (Decaf) Gucci Mane - what u know bought me, it sounds pretty beast
 
it is good you can see the cone, but you're still losing energy to the trunk. i would want a 16" dia hole above the sub with trunk airspace sealed off. sealed in the cabin means neither cone nor port air can make it to the trunk. if you wall off around the box, tight to the rear deck on all 3 sides, you can get close enough and leave the rear deck as-is.

that may not be possible with your trunk arrangement.

 
Take the expanding foam and put a wall of it around the backside of the box so air escapes from a smaller area. When you open your trunk you don't want to be able to see the subwoofer.

 
[quote name='mazdakid']Your sub wont fit on the front next to the ports?[/QUOTE]

Not really, I've got about 15" between the left wall and the closest port opening, after a few months or a year or so I may rebuild the box into something different, maybe worm out 2 15's, for now I'll work on fine tuning it to the best that I can without too ma.y body mods, maybe later I'll cut out the rear deck, thanks @keep_hope_alive for the help.
 
They are right....it's like half assin right now how it is.

How you did works in 4th orders because the sub fires into the box and then out the port.

You will need the sub and port firing into the cabin //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif In your case

 
Nice vids, quick thought: I have the same head-unit in my ride and noticed you are turning it up to 28 or so. Not that I know much different, however, I had mine tuned with a DD-1 and CC-1 and it was full clipped at/past 26 w/ the USB port, just fyi if it helps any....

 
Nice vids, quick thought: I have the same head-unit in my ride and noticed you are turning it up to 28 or so. Not that I know much different, however, I had mine tuned with a DD-1 and CC-1 and it was full clipped at/past 26 w/ the USB port, just fyi if it helps any....
See, I can't recall what made me go up to 28 but yes thank you for your input, I actually used to run it on 25/35 haha but so far 28/35 has caused me to issues but I'll keep that in mind from now on, thank you //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif and thank you for watching my nooby videos

 
Just found a photo of this done on facebook by a certain someone, (with how my box turned out I might just wait until my rebuild to mount it) but heres a preview of what I had him make, its the first of the new material hes trying (Black Anodized Aluminum)

12x24

485645_291567660929624_100002291763765_641879_335195172_n.jpg


 
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