[quote name='keep_hope_alive']ok, so you have two massive ports firing forward, and the sub firing up. from the latest pics i don't see a massive hole in the rear deck that corresponds with the woofer.
none if this is a dig, just trying to be informative. maybe you stick with what you have, maybe you start over. i start over every year or two, just to keep things interesting.
you want the front wave from the sub to combine coherently (constructive interference) with the rear wave after it travels through the port. for that to happen you need both pathlengths to be free from obstruction and to make sense at the measurement location. hell, you can calc each path fairly easy. then you can determine what frequencies will constructively add and what frequencies will destructively cancel.
the purpose of the obscene amount of expanding foam is to minimize leaks into the trunk. SPL requires controlling (and minimizing/eliminating) leaks in the cabin. doing so is quite the chore as the entire cabin is leaky (doors, door seals, firewall penetraions, A/C, speakers, etc.)
What we can't clearly see is the path for sound from the woofer cone. it seems to be buried under the rear deck. you're losing substantial output by not having the front of the woofer cone firing clearly into the cabin, and having it sealed around that. when people do what you are trying to do - they remove a portion (or most) of the rear deck. that is 100x more difficult now that you've foamed the box in place. regardless, you want to open that back up. by removing the rear deck panel and carefully removing the metal above the sub, then building up around the sub (MDF blocks) and then sealing that, then recovering the rear deck (after stiffening the hell out of it) you should be ok. note that removing the rear glass will make this process MUCH easier.
you also want the ability to remove a sub at will without destroying the box in the process. i'm not sure how you do that with your current configuration. opening up the rear deck will let you do that. your biggest challenge is doing all of this without damaging the sub it the process.
if it were me: the entire rear seat/deck would be gone, trunk lid torsion bars gone, new bracing welded in for vehicle safety, strength, and stability, the upholstry would be out, the new enclosure would be glassed to the vehicle (no foam), all remaining panels would be stiffened, new coverings would be added (to match factory upholstry without being soft cushions), and you would clearly see both the woofer cone and ports at the same time from anywhere in the cabin. a fake seat cover could be made out of expanded metal covered in a thin open-wave fabric if you wanted the illusion of a factory-ish vehicle. further, the distance from cone to mic and port to mic (plus port travel) would coordinate with my anticipated/calculated/modeled SPL peak. not saying that is the right thing to do, that's just what i would do.
my $.02 based on the limited amount of information i have been able to view in a few minutes.[/QUOTE]
IIRC the woofers cone is just under my passenger rear deck speakers (I've removed my rear fill speakers) if it is theres still a path to the trunk, but if its not then its still sealed, I'll look into some of the ideas for solutions, if anything right now I'll keep the box I have now and try and work a solution with what I have, as you said
@keep_hope_alive I had my previous system for a little over a year and wanted a change.
