Simplicity

If google told me right, SQ stands for sound quality, and to put it into laymans terms, it simply means that you are trying to get audiophile sound quality out of your system. If I am wrong, please steer me in the right direction.

I was under the impression that more speakers that are specialized in certain areas would equal better range and thus. better quality at lower volumes.

Since we're starting with head unit, let's put the amount at $150, I can go over, but I don't want to. We can cut costs going used, or even previous year models.

For speakers, I am unfamiliar with ranges of price, so give me a range, and I'll say what I'm willing to spend on a set (this means more money allocated to less speakers, and vice versa).

Subs and amps? I just want some decent bass, older subs are a great choice, as long as I can get down in the frequencies, and I don't get my most hated car audio issue, delayed bass (when the bass hits later and doesn't sound right). I am willing to get to a 10" or 12" subs or even two matched 8" subs, but I'll leave it to you guys to help with that. Also, remember looks aren't my thing, and I'm not trying to be felt a mile away, I want enough bass, not so much that I cannot here the music and my face starts itching.

 
You only really need a set of components. Which is this

http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchfield.com/ImageHandler/trim/1400/900/products/2011/2/500/x500SPS610C-o_other.jpeg

Thats two midrange/midwoofers in one speaker plus two tweeters.

your subwoofer plays 20-100hz. Your midrange/midwoofer plays from anywhere between 100hz-3 or 4 or 5kh and your tweeter plays from 3 or 4 or 5 khz up to the rest of the audio spectrum..about 20khz. Most people cross their midrange/midwoofer between the 3-5 khz range.

Thats whats people mean by separate drivers.

http://www.ecoustics.com/electronics/messages/4/706268.jpg

consider the green and blue line to be the same speaker. The orange line is the subwoofer, the weird greyish one on the far right in the tweeter. The crossover points is where one speaker starts to play sound quieter and the other speaker starts to pick up that slack. That way you get blending of speakers. crossover points arent brick walls. the negative numbers are volume. -6 is quieter than -3. 0 is considered as loud as you go. anything over 0 is distortion.

As for speaker prices. They really vary depending on how much you want to spend. There is a speaker for any amount of cash. Im running 279$ hertz speakers right now and honestly. They are freaking amazing. Youll want to be careful when your buying speakers off places like ebay and the like. There is alot of fake chinese knockoffs.

Group delay is caused by a ported box. bigger the box. more group delay you get. you can find really really good deals in the classified section on here for subwoofers and amps and speakers and the like.

 
You only really need a set of components. Which is this
http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchfield.com/ImageHandler/trim/1400/900/products/2011/2/500/x500SPS610C-o_other.jpeg

Thats two midrange/midwoofers in one speaker plus two tweeters.

These are absolutely gorgeous, and fit my definition of simplicity in a speaker...

your subwoofer plays 20-100hz. Your midrange/midwoofer plays from anywhere between 100hz-3 or 4 or 5kh and your tweeter plays from 3 or 4 or 5 khz up to the rest of the audio spectrum..about 20khz. Most people cross their midrange/midwoofer between the 3-5 khz range.

Thats whats people mean by separate drivers.

Giddyness is the anticipation for me, it starts when the build up comes, and then peaks when the drop comes. It's so bad that when I heard Sweet Shop by doctor P I teared up... I know that it's sad... don't judge me.

http://www.ecoustics.com/electronics/messages/4/706268.jpg

consider the green and blue line to be the same speaker. The orange line is the subwoofer, the weird greyish one on the far right in the tweeter. The crossover points is where one speaker starts to play sound quieter and the other speaker starts to pick up that slack. That way you get blending of speakers. crossover points arent brick walls. the negative numbers are volume. -6 is quieter than -3. 0 is considered as loud as you go. anything over 0 is distortion.

I dabbled in DJing for a while, and this makes me think of a crossfading curve between two tracks, but a lot more aggressive, I also understand that the speakers would probably work together at the intersecting points.

As for speaker prices. They really vary depending on how much you want to spend. There is a speaker for any amount of cash. Im running 279$ hertz speakers right now and honestly. They are freaking amazing. Youll want to be careful when your buying speakers off places like ebay and the like. There is alot of fake chinese knockoffs.

I am very aware of the fierce knockoff market while deployed. You find all sorts of knockoffs in the bazaars, and learn to pick them out amongst the real items.

Group delay is caused by a ported box. bigger the box. more group delay you get. you can find really really good deals in the classified section on here for subwoofers and amps and speakers and the like.

I HATE group delay. My buddy had twin Kicker L7's in his car, and the bass was ALWAYS off.
If I could get a whole system that look like the first link, I will be happy. If the deck can be that plain as well then I will be the happiest man ever.

 
http://www.amazon.com/ESK-165-5-Hertz-Component-Speaker-System/dp/B00F2PNBRM

Speakers i run in case you were curious.

Your gonna need to set a max budget because when it comes to sound quality. its all about install and $$$$$.

The best HU for sound quality around is the deh-prs80 for 250$. It has built in cross over controls. seperate l/r equalizer. time alignment and a thousand other things. Its king of SQ headunits. Only thing better is 1000$.

http://www.soundoftristate.com/media/catalog/product/d/e/deh-80prs_large.jpg

Something i learned recently is that SQ first comes from the source and then the head unit and then the amp and the speakers.

You want 320kps non clipped music. A headunit that doesnt add any type of sound to your music. Only deck ive heard that was completely clean was the prs80. Its hard to explain what that means because its not a audible distortion or anything its just changes the music in a way thats hard to explain. Then you want an amp with a low THD rating and then you want speakers that are good.

Having things like time alignment and equalization in a head unit makes your sound quality sky rocket because now you get a center stage and all your frequencies are equal and nothing is too bright or too dull. you have full control.

Like i said though $$$ is king. 280$ head unit. 280$ speakers. 200$(prob less cuz you can find good deals on here) amp. plus 40$ wiring kits. 40$ in insulated rcas. . throw in 20$ for misc crap. your looking at 900$ just for your front stage. But you can skimp on speakers or head unit or whatever you'd like. IMO. It takes about 1500$ to make a really nice set up. front stage and substage.

 
Clarion CZ702 CD receiver at Crutchfield.com

850-120=730

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/subwoofer-classifieds/614195-fs-tc-sounds-epic-8-1008-a.html

730-120=610

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/amplifier-classifieds/614303-fs-ft-helix-dark-blue-5-bnib.html

610-200=410
its about 100$ to build a good box for your sub.

http://www.amazon.com/Stinger-SI4617-17-Foot-Professional-Interconnects/dp/B005C6HZCI for 6 channel rcas.

410-100=310
310-23=287


That gives you hu, 5 channel amp to power sub and speakers, and a sub.

You just need power wire/ speakers. That should give you a start. @Jeffdachef could prob tell you if those are good choices. i think they are but im no pro.
 
[quote name='Jscoyne2']Clarion CZ702 CD receiver at Crutchfield.com

850-120=730

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/subwoofer-classifieds/614195-fs-tc-sounds-epic-8-1008-a.html

730-120=610

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/amplifier-classifieds/614303-fs-ft-helix-dark-blue-5-bnib.html

610-200=410
its about 100$ to build a good box for your sub.

Amazon.com: Stinger SI4617 17-Foot 4000 Series Professional 6 Channel RCA Interconnects: Car Electronics for 6 channel rcas.

410-100=310
310-23=287


That gives you hu, 5 channel amp to power sub and speakers, and a sub.

You just need power wire/ speakers. That should give you a start. @Jeffdachef could prob tell you if those are good choices. i think they are but im no pro.[/QUOTE]

If I may had something you might have forgotten.

287-20=267 (case of beer for relaxing)
267-5=262 ( bottle of aspirin for future problems that might arise)
Good Luck
 
Would it be cheaper to have a digital reciever? I have no use for a CD player...

I found the Kenwood KMM-BT312U, and yes it's under $100. What sold me is the 6 channel preamp outs. It also works with my Note II via USB.

 
Would it be cheaper to have a digital reciever? I have no use for a CD player...I found the Kenwood KMM-BT312U, and yes it's under $100. What sold me is the 6 channel preamp outs. It also works with my Note II via USB.
Weak Digital audio convertors, no time alignment(your laggy sub problem). The sound quality difference between a good head unit and a weak head unit is astronomical. Definitely not the thing you should be cheaping out on if you want a good sounding system. Its not wheter you want cd players or not, you want the head unit with internal processors that can deliver the best sound for the best price along with customization options to get the sound you really want.

 
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