sealed problems.

[TeoTorriatte 10+ year member]

heres some specs on got from ID forums but they are essentially a copy of ED ov series.
Re 7.8 in series

Fs 22.6

Qts .333

Qe .37

Qm 3.29

Vas 71.3 liters

Sd 350 cm2

Bl 19.032 tm

mms 121.1

mmd 117.33

Splo 85.5

Xmax 16.2 mm

Well, according to BB6P, .9 ft^3 per sub is just about perfect... and it should wang pretty good off that amp.
The first thing I would do is determine if they are all in phase or not. If they are all in phase, then get a DMM and check the drivers' ReVC. If all of that checks out, then try different aiming options.

 

[SRim23 5,000+ posts]

is the box sealed tight or did you make it
even the smallest air leak will decrease output

nope, good box made by Bones. im not even saying im not getting decent output, just no where near what i thought i would get and talking to some other guys im convinced i had the box made too big. going to add some wood inside see what changes.

 

[SRim23 5,000+ posts]

so in this thread the advice to me was to check the wiring, that it sounded like polarity might be switched and i said i knew wiring was right. well now i look and on these ID oem, each terminal is a push terminal with either red or black sticker..

now correct me if im wrong but usually red + black - right? well next to the red on the plastic is a - sign and next to the black is a + sign....you think the plastic is put on wrong or the stickers?

was about to trade them for 1 12" tc 9 but now i might try wiring them assuming the black is pos and see if the change in output significantly changes.

what do you think.

 

[TeoTorriatte 10+ year member]

so in this thread the advice to me was to check the wiring, that it sounded like polarity might be switched and i said i knew wiring was right. well now i look and on these ID oem, each terminal is a push terminal with either red or black sticker..
now correct me if im wrong but usually red + black - right? well next to the red on the plastic is a - sign and next to the black is a + sign....you think the plastic is put on wrong or the stickers?

was about to trade them for 1 12" tc 9 but now i might try wiring them assuming the black is pos and see if the change in output significantly changes.

what do you think.

Swith the wiring and let us know if it makes a difference... seems like a very plausible solution to your problem.

 

[SRim23 5,000+ posts]

Swith the wiring and let us know if it makes a difference... seems like a very plausible solution to your problem.

is there a way i can check to see which one is pos and which is neg without switching the wiring. would like to check now and not wait till tomorrow lol

 

[SRim23 5,000+ posts]

Swith the wiring and let us know if it makes a difference... seems like a very plausible solution to your problem.

so assuming that the + and - are switched on my subs wouldnt i have damaged something though hooking the + on the sub to the - on the amp and the - on the sub to the + on the amp.

could i run the risk damaging something tomorrow if wired not knowing whats what. again i ask how can i figure out whats what before i hook em up

 

[dman4486 5,000+ posts]

this is why I switched to vented enclosures.....even with tons more power, it just wasn't enough output

 

[profundus-sanus 10+ year member]

you won't damage if your just testing stuff out to figure out if its wired right.

do you have all the subs wired together in the box, or are there 3 sets of speaker wires/terminals?

 

[SRim23 5,000+ posts]

you won't damage if your just testing stuff out to figure out if its wired right.
do you have all the subs wired together in the box, or are there 3 sets of speaker wires/terminals?

all of them wired together. wired like this http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurations.asp~Q~3~I~22

at 3 ohm.

 

[SRim23 5,000+ posts]

this is why I switched to vented enclosures.....even with tons more power, it just wasn't enough output

were past that problem. everyone suggested they were out of phase, well i took them out assuming im going to trade them to someone and i noticed the terminals on the sub might be marked wrong. theres a + next to the black terminal and a - next to the red terminal. terminals might be switched.

 

[profundus-sanus 10+ year member]

a dmm should show an error in wiring in that case then.

what do the speaker leads read?

 

[dman4486 5,000+ posts]

use a 9 volt battery to test this.....

edit: really any battery would work as long as it has a charge

 

[SRim23 5,000+ posts]

a dmm should show an error in wiring in that case then.
what do the speaker leads read?

dont own one.

use a 9 volt battery to test this.....

edit: really any battery would work as long as it has a charge

what exactly do i do with the battery?

 

[dman4486 5,000+ posts]

on each sub you have 2 coils with a + and - each

you will wire the battery + to the coil + and battery - to the coil - and the sub should thrust outward(safely)

if the cone moves the opposite direction with + to + and - to - on any coil, then that coil is labeled wrong

 

[profundus-sanus 10+ year member]

dont own one.
what exactly do i do with the battery?

seriously?

i own 5, lol.

i bought 3 15$ one's from sears, so i can use the same dmm for gain matching.

i'm sure walmart is open //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif