Sealed and LOUD? Suggestions???

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

Also look into a neo motored sub, if you want to save some weight.

 

[GAM3OVR 5,000+ posts]

Thanks for all the responces I was looking into doing a half fiberglass enclosure.

Wood is rather heavy and I dont really want to do a ported setup.

So i was thinking maybe a 15" sub sealed in a 1.5 cube enclosure, heavily fortified with fiberglass.

or maybe two 15's but not anything ultra heavy. if I can get 500-600 rms into each one sealed off, I think I should get decent performance.

 

[dbjunior 10+ year member]

you ever think of sealing the trunk from the cabin and running ib with an 18 or 2 15's that will keep weight down a lot

 

[GAM3OVR 5,000+ posts]

like using the trunk as an enclosure itself?

 

[dbjunior 10+ year member]

like using the trunk as an enclosure itself?

exactly the trunk would be the enclosure but you would have to make sure that it is completley sealed

 

[RAM_Designs 5,000+ posts]

I still think a PR setup is your best bet for a good output:weight ratio.

 

[dkdub 10+ year member]

IB would have been what I would have suggested if he were looking for outright SQ and not output. I've heard some of them get "Loudish" but with 1k on tap and coming from a ported setup, I have a feeling the OP would be disappointed.

If you can, find someone with an IB setup and give it a listen.

 

[dirt101 10+ year member]

only subs ive been impressed with sealed have been the whole JL line, and the oldschool kicker solo classics. put a couple old kicker 15 solos(round) and I promise you wont be disapointed.

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

I agree, I wouldn't recommend going IB unless you have some experience with an IB system, or several.

 

[helotaxi 5,000+ posts]

To really make this work with weight as a principle concern, you're going to have to abandon your current way of thinking. Several low powered subs (much lighter than the high powered monsters that everyone swoons over on the forums) will serve you better both from the point of weight and output.

Properly done, fiberglass isn't exactly a weight saving measure either. If it's built up thick enough to provide the needed rigidity, it will usually weigh at least as much as MDF. A standard box built from Baltic-birch ply wood is going to be the way to go. It's more rigid than MDF and weighs significantly less as well. The down side is that it cost a great deal more.

 

[dkdub 10+ year member]

Helotaxi hit the nail on the head here.

 

[GAM3OVR 5,000+ posts]

I have previosuly built fiber glass enclosures and sealed birch enclosure. I found for a 15" sub, the fiberglass weights about half. thats really ideal.

So no doubt i will be going with fiberglass

 

[helotaxi 5,000+ posts]

Then you didn't make the fiberglass thick enough.

 

[GAM3OVR 5,000+ posts]

there was no flexing, 4 layers. 1000 rms application.

 

[Sarthos 10+ year member]

I've had some decently loud sealed box setups, but not compared to any people with good ported setups (good meaning they built a box, not just a box they picked up at wal mart or best buy). One thing that should be able to help you, put the sub in the back passenger's side corner and point it towards the corner. The way the sound waves reflect will be more efficient and should be able to help you with power. Pointing at the back and the side = less phase difference between the soundwaves from the sub and the reflected soundwaves, which results in less cancellation. Point it basically directly away from the driver, so you'll end up pointing it mostly towards the back of the trunk, just a little bit to the passenger's side, but way in the corner of the trunk.