School me on Speaker Specs...

[SeniorXJ 10+ year member]

Much like when i compare nutrition labels on food products, i know what im looking at to make my decision given i have that knowledge.

With that analogy im looking to do the same when reading up on a speakers specs & it would be nice to exactly know what im reading in the exact same way!!

Specs i dont fully understand:

•2 or 4 ohms impedance

•Sensitivity: 89 dB

•Frequency Response: 55-25,000 Hz

Frequency responce & the sensativity numbers is the main thing, & 2ohm VS 4ohm speakers, which is better??

Here are some features that pop up that i have no idea what they are:

•Custom pole piece for low distortion and sound quality

•Fully isolated tinsel leads to eliminate crosstalk

•Klippel distortion analyzer

•Custom designed pole piece for low distortion and sound quality

Thanks!!

Click to read more...

 

[mr.gaf 10+ year member]

Google.

Judging by popular opinion the lower the ohm load the better, lower ohm load=less resistance=more powerful

 

[TaylorFade 10+ year member]

•Fully isolated tinsel leads to eliminate crosstalk•Klippel distortion analyzer

Thanks!!

uhhh... wut?

 

[SeniorXJ 10+ year member]

Google.Judging by popular opinion the lower the ohm load the better, lower ohm load=less resistance=more powerful

Sorry i didnt mention that ive done some searching & reading, but everything i read is confusing as i basically need it put into laymans terms for myself!

 

[jungstah 10+ year member]

Sorry i didnt mention that ive done some searching & reading, but everything i read is confusing as i basically need it put into laymans terms for myself!

frequency response means exactly what it is. the range of frequencies the speaker can respond to. COMMON SENSE MAN

 

[tommydh 10+ year member]

Ok the simple thing on ohms. 2vs4 sigle vs dual vc. That comes into play based on your amplifier. In my case I am running 2 dual 4 ohm vc speakers in parallel to see a 1 ohm load on my amp. My amp is stable at 1 ohm. My previous set up was a single dual 2 ohm with th ecoils ran in parallel to get 1 ohm. For the most part its what resistance is placed on your power source.think of it as light bulbs is a 100 watt better than 1 50 it will be brighter but if you add 2 50 wat bulbs vs 1 100 watt same overall load on circuit. sensitivity its how much power does it take to get a response. the higher the numbwer the cleanr the sound.

 

[TaylorFade 10+ year member]

I almost NEVER do this, but...

Just start googling things, dude. Seriously.

 

[skylineTT 10+ year member]

oyy, the 2ohm and 4ohm deal really just correlates to how the subwoofers can be wired to an amplifier. Some amplifiers do their power at 1 ohm, while others do their power at 2 ohms. You want the resistance (ohms) to match from the subs to the amp so those different configurations give you different options. One isn't necessarily better. The Sensitivity sort of correlates to how much power it takes to get the sub moving. The higher the sensitivity, the easier it is to move, so it can work well with less power. The frequency response means what range of frequencies the woofer can play. There isn't really a "best" frequency response either. Just depends on the application.

All of this information works for any type of speaker also. Not just subs.

 

[blobb454 10+ year member]

Here are some features that pop up that i have no idea what they are:

•Custom pole piece for low distortion and sound quality

•Fully isolated tinsel leads to eliminate crosstalk

•Klippel distortion analyzer

•Custom designed pole piece for low distortion and sound quality

Thanks!!

Basically everything here is design and build quality. I swear I see almost all sub manufacturers say theirs are like this.

 

[mr.gaf 10+ year member]

Main things you wanna look at when getting amp and speakers/subs are

Amps: rms output wattage: this is the power rating the amp receives for a particular ohm load which means if an amp is rated for a 1000 watts @ 1 ohm, then if the speakers are correctly wired the amp will consistently output 1000 watts.

Fuses: I don't know too much about them really, ask @mylows10 or someone

Brand: the amp will be one if the most expensive parts in your setup, if you get a nice one from the start you're set, like a common good brand would be Kicker 1000.1 rockford, Lanzar Optidrive, any other amps that are way better you can contact vendors on the site.

Wiring: make sure your vehicle can supply enough power, anything above 1200 watts rms will usually require a bigger alt or additional battery, big three upgradw will also help a lot with that.

Speaker: rms, make sure your sub(s) can handle the power of the amp, amp outputs 1000 rms, you need two subs rated at least at 500 watts rms IGNORE PEAK for speakers and amps, crap speakers like Sony xplods are rated at 300 watts and peak 1200, really neans nothing, you want an amp that will output the total rms wattage demand of your speaker(s)

Box: don't get a prefab, contact someone like @double_07 for a nice box, the box is very important.

I was clearly too bored...any further questions, ask.

 

[SeniorXJ 10+ year member]

Guess i shoulda mentioned that i was mostly reffering to components & coaxials & not subs. I also fuly understand wattage & how that all goes down. I already have my sub ready to go in my new setup but am still shopping for a set of components & coaxials so those are the stats im trying to compare from one speaker to another. Looking for as loud & clear as i can afford in the mid to high ranges & not so much for bass responce out of em.

Thanks for all the info so far!!