SAZ-3500d

[ringolong 10+ year member]

Hi Guys,

I recently purchased a 3500d and I was wondering if a 320 amp alt, and an extra HC2000 KINETIK in the trunk would be enough to power this amp at a 1 ohm load? I am running 2 9512's.

TIA!

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[RangerDangerV2 5,000+ posts]

1 d3100 would be better or two kinetik hc2400's....

 

[ringolong 10+ year member]

Thanks for the info YonYonson!

I accidently posted that wrong. I already bought a HC2000. Do you think it would suffice to add another HC2000, and I have one run of 1/0 gauge run from front battery to back battery. Do you think that is enough or should I run another one?

 

[Falcons 5,000+ posts]

dude that is plenty lol

 

[RangerDangerV2 5,000+ posts]

depends if you are going to play a lot with the car off... if so you are going to need like 400 amp hours in the truck and an isolator, if not, youre golden

 

[ringolong 10+ year member]

Good deal... Thanks Guys. I am a junior when it comes to this high powered audio equipment.

 

[Falcons 5,000+ posts]

i would add one more run of 0 gauge just to be safe. and correct, more reserve if your going into comps with the car off. daily beater, beat off!

 

[ringolong 10+ year member]

I got another 0 gauge run( so 2 positive runs from the front battery to the battery in the trunk ) what size inline fuses are needed running from the battery in the trunk to the amp in the trunk? ( the amp is rated for a 300 amp fuse ) 150 amp fuse on each wire since I will have 2 going from the battery in the trunk to the amp?

 

[05trailblazer 10+ year member]

enough is never enough i still had a bit of dimming when i had my amp at 2ohms with 1 kinetik 2000 had more when lowered amp 2

1.33ohms

 

[timma100 10+ year member]

With out a doubt do multiple runs of 0 Gauge to the trunk, for positive and negative.. Right now I have three batteries (including the front) in full parallel. One run of KNU 0 for positive from front to back, and another run from front to back for negative. Adding an additional ground to the frame for the trunk batteries is always a good idea. But when your dealing with this much amperage its good to have your batteries grounded to each-other and the frame. Its also a VERY good idea to connect the positive and negative of the amp directly to the battery in the back.

Here is a super quick vid of my system I recorded a while back, at 38 seconds you can see how the batteries are wired, I also have a frame ground in the trunk.

 

[Patthehat033 10+ year member]

With out a doubt do multiple runs of 0 Gauge to the trunk, for positive and negative.. Right now I have three batteries (including the front) in full parallel. One run of KNU 0 for positive from front to back, and another run from front to back for negative. Adding an additional ground to the frame for the trunk batteries is always a good idea. But when your dealing with this much amperage its good to have your batteries grounded to each-other and the frame. Its also a VERY good idea to connect the positive and negative of the amp directly to the battery in the back.
Here is a super quick vid of my system I recorded a while back, at 38 seconds you can see how the batteries are wired, I also have a frame ground in the trunk.

I wish the set up in my buddies car was this well put together. Were running his SAZ-1500 off his stock battery and an Optima in the trunk. 1 set up of 2 gauge wire running from positive to positive on the batteries. The battery in the trunk is just grounded to the frame. And his amp is wired to the battery in the trunk with 4 gauge jumper cables. hahaha. I Dmmed it at about 1584 watts rms and it's poundin' away at 2 Kicker L7's.

 

[timma100 10+ year member]

I wish the set up in my buddies car was this well put together. Were running his SAZ-1500 off his stock battery and an Optima in the trunk. 1 set up of 2 gauge wire running from positive to positive on the batteries. The battery in the trunk is just grounded to the frame. And his amp is wired to the battery in the trunk with 4 gauge jumper cables. hahaha. I Dmmed it at about 1584 watts rms and it's poundin' away at 2 Kicker L7's.

Do you know how much the voltage is dropping at full tilt? Also with good electrical the 1500D can put out clean 1800~1900rms

On a side note.... so far 4 sub screws have ripped them selves out of the box //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

 

[Patthehat033 10+ year member]

Not to sound ignorant but what does full tilt refer to? I didn't tune it any higher than 1600 rms since he is not that great with anything electrical and I wanted his amplifier to last, but there was still some room for his gain to increase.

 

[ringolong 10+ year member]

Nice setup....

So do I need one run for each polarity from the front to the back battery instead of 2 from the positives? I also noticed that there were no inline fuses between the battery and amp.

I was wondering about what size fuses in each positive run from the battery in the trunk to the amp. (approximately 12 inch distance)

Also, I was wondering if there needed to be a run from the alt to the battery in the trunk or would all the alt output flow through the front battery ok? (320 amp alternator)

Thanks for the help!

 

[timma100 10+ year member]

[quote name='ringolong']Nice setup....

So do I need one run for each polarity from the front to the back battery instead of 2 from the positives? I also noticed that there were no inline fuses between the battery and amp.

I was wondering about what size fuses in each positive run from the battery in the trunk to the amp. (approximately 12 inch distance)

Also, I was wondering if there needed to be a run from the alt to the battery in the trunk or would all the alt output flow through the front battery ok? (320 amp alternator)

Thanks for the help![/QUOTE]

@Patthehat033 by full tilt I mean a heavy hitting song a full volume, do you have a voltage meter connected to the amp?

Ring, you don't have to run wire for both positive and negative, but it will help a lot, for fuses I have one under the hood, and one in the trunk before the back batteries, and I "should" have one between the back batteries and the amp, but I do not.

What kind of 0 Gauge are you planning to use? full copper 0 from KNU can do 375 amps easy, I used KNU KCA (copper clad aluminum) for my build, its crazy cheep $80 for 50' of it, and its rated at 250 amps. So for fusing I put in 200 amp fuses, you can have you fuses be the max your wire is rated for but personally having the fuses blow before the wire cooks is a nice bonus. So if you went with full copper (375 amps) I would recommend using 350 amp fuses.

As for the alternator, its always good, almost a must to do what people call a "big three" basically running 0 Gauge from the alternator positive to front battery positive, front battery negative to frame (or alternator case, the frame is grounded to the engine any way so this works fine), and then the engine to frame ground. At that point there really is no difference if you run the positive to the trunk form the alternator or the front battery positive because there is already a run of 0 to the front battery. It may come down to an aesthetic, or ease of use choice. Some alternators have a little tab where the battery positive connects for charging, making doing a big three upgrade a huge pain in the ***.. (just sayin)