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SAZ-3500d
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<blockquote data-quote="timma100" data-source="post: 7685883" data-attributes="member: 637068"><p>[quote name='ringolong']Nice setup.... </p><p></p><p>So do I need one run for each polarity from the front to the back battery instead of 2 from the positives? I also noticed that there were no inline fuses between the battery and amp. </p><p></p><p>I was wondering about what size fuses in each positive run from the battery in the trunk to the amp. (approximately 12 inch distance)</p><p></p><p>Also, I was wondering if there needed to be a run from the alt to the battery in the trunk or would all the alt output flow through the front battery ok? (320 amp alternator)</p><p></p><p>Thanks for the help!</p></blockquote><p></p><p>[USER=637337]@Patthehat033[/USER] by full tilt I mean a heavy hitting song a full volume, do you have a voltage meter connected to the amp?</p><p></p><p>Ring, you don&#39;t have to run wire for both positive and negative, but it will help a lot, for fuses I have one under the hood, and one in the trunk before the back batteries, and I "should" have one between the back batteries and the amp, but I do not.</p><p></p><p>What kind of 0 Gauge are you planning to use? full copper 0 from KNU can do 375 amps easy, I used KNU KCA (copper clad aluminum) for my build, its crazy cheep $80 for 50&#39; of it, and its rated at 250 amps. So for fusing I put in 200 amp fuses, you can have you fuses be the max your wire is rated for but personally having the fuses blow before the wire cooks is a nice bonus. So if you went with full copper (375 amps) I would recommend using 350 amp fuses. </p><p></p><p>As for the alternator, its always good, almost a must to do what people call a "big three" basically running 0 Gauge from the alternator positive to front battery positive, front battery negative to frame (or alternator case, the frame is grounded to the engine any way so this works fine), and then the engine to frame ground. At that point there really is no difference if you run the positive to the trunk form the alternator or the front battery positive because there is already a run of 0 to the front battery. It may come down to an aesthetic, or ease of use choice. Some alternators have a little tab where the battery positive connects for charging, making doing a big three upgrade a huge pain in the ***.. (just sayin)</p><p>[/QUOTE]</p>
[QUOTE="timma100, post: 7685883, member: 637068"] [quote name='ringolong']Nice setup.... So do I need one run for each polarity from the front to the back battery instead of 2 from the positives? I also noticed that there were no inline fuses between the battery and amp. I was wondering about what size fuses in each positive run from the battery in the trunk to the amp. (approximately 12 inch distance) Also, I was wondering if there needed to be a run from the alt to the battery in the trunk or would all the alt output flow through the front battery ok? (320 amp alternator) Thanks for the help![/QUOTE] [USER=637337]@Patthehat033[/USER] by full tilt I mean a heavy hitting song a full volume, do you have a voltage meter connected to the amp? Ring, you don't have to run wire for both positive and negative, but it will help a lot, for fuses I have one under the hood, and one in the trunk before the back batteries, and I "should" have one between the back batteries and the amp, but I do not. What kind of 0 Gauge are you planning to use? full copper 0 from KNU can do 375 amps easy, I used KNU KCA (copper clad aluminum) for my build, its crazy cheep $80 for 50' of it, and its rated at 250 amps. So for fusing I put in 200 amp fuses, you can have you fuses be the max your wire is rated for but personally having the fuses blow before the wire cooks is a nice bonus. So if you went with full copper (375 amps) I would recommend using 350 amp fuses. As for the alternator, its always good, almost a must to do what people call a "big three" basically running 0 Gauge from the alternator positive to front battery positive, front battery negative to frame (or alternator case, the frame is grounded to the engine any way so this works fine), and then the engine to frame ground. At that point there really is no difference if you run the positive to the trunk form the alternator or the front battery positive because there is already a run of 0 to the front battery. It may come down to an aesthetic, or ease of use choice. Some alternators have a little tab where the battery positive connects for charging, making doing a big three upgrade a huge pain in the ***.. (just sayin) [/QUOTE]
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