Same RMS at different ohms...

[Flipx99 5,000+ posts]

Link to this please...

Can't provide a link of something that doesn't exist so you ban him?

 

[JimJ 5,000+ posts]

LOL...I didn't ban him, give me a second to see who did...

But that's still pretty funny //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[Mugen 10+ year member]

Most amps that put out 4k will cost more than an amp that's regulated across impedences at 1k. Unless we really start to compare apples to oranges.
I'd say

Amp 1:

300@ 4ohm

600w @ 2ohm

1200w @ 1ohm

or

Amp 2:

1000w @ 4ohm

1000w @ 2ohm

1000w @ 1ohm

is a more fair comparison. The top amp will still be priced as a "1000 watter". In this case, at 1 ohm, amp a's a bit better, but overall amp b is much more versatile, you can apply a similar amount of power to any setup.

1000/1 $800

Opti4000D $900

HCCA-D5000 $900

ZX2500.1 $840

HK4000D $680

Basically, 4 amps there that are in the same price bracket (within $100, with the exception of the MA Audio, which is actually much cheaper) that do 1000w @ 4ohm, but substantially more at lower impedances. I'm not saying they're better, but a typical amp that does 1200w @ 1ohm can be had for under $300, quite a bit cheaper than that JL...

 

[Justintoxicated 10+ year member]

1000/1 $800Opti4000D $900

HCCA-D5000 $900

ZX2500.1 $840

HK4000D $680

Basically, 4 amps there that are in the same price bracket (within $100, with the exception of the MA Audio, which is actually much cheaper) that do 1000w @ 4ohm, but substantially more at lower impedances. I'm not saying they're better, but a typical amp that does 1200w @ 1ohm can be had for under $300, quite a bit cheaper than that JL...

Yes JL is overpriced, if they only had an amp that did 250@4 ohm 500@2 and 1000@1 ohm it would probably be the same price.... I don't think your paying THAT much more for the feature, your also paying for the NAME.

Ars amps sort of do the same thing. I was just looking at this one. http://www.arcaudio.com/arc-05/amplifiers/xxk_1500.htm Now it's not monoblock, but why not have double the power. I'm sure the answer is in the regulation vs the rest of the components.

The JL amp probably uses many components that are in other 1000 watt amps, but probably does not have the caps and inductors etc that are in 3000 and 4000 watt amps. So another way to look at it is that It has LESS wasted potential. If the components are made to tolerate 1000 watts on an amp then why not enable the amp to use them 100% despite the resistance? Where as the other amps have parts made to tolerate 3000 watts etc, but they are only utilized with the correct impedance connected. If they used the same regulating technology JL uses (multiple Voltage rails?) then they would be capable of putting out 3000 watts at all levels as well.

Hope this makes sense. So no matter how you look at it, it is a GOOD thing, unless you need more power in which case you simply need a larger amp (with or without this capability to utilize it's maximum power at all levels.

So your lookign at it backwards, it's not that they are limiting the capability of the amp, it's that they are MAXIMIZING it.

 

[squeak9798 5,000+ posts]

1000/1 $800Opti4000D $900

HCCA-D5000 $900

ZX2500.1 $840

HK4000D $680

Basically, 4 amps there that are in the same price bracket (within $100, with the exception of the MA Audio, which is actually much cheaper) that do 1000w @ 4ohm, but substantially more at lower impedances. I'm not saying they're better, but a typical amp that does 1200w @ 1ohm can be had for under $300, quite a bit cheaper than that JL...

http://www.cardomain.com/item/BOSBL3KD

Buy two of them and it's only $518 (free shipping) and you'll have 4400w rated RMS.

Therefore, the products you listed above are overpriced and you can find "comparable" products for considerably less.

 

[helotaxi 5,000+ posts]

Does anyone understand the difference between expensive and overpriced anymore?

And Squeak, the 2350DM came out in the late 80's FWIW.

And CBFryman misses the mark yet again. The Slash series amps draw a shit ton of current when you drop the voltage but guess what, they keep making the same amount of power. The old, good PPI amps did the same thing. Have to take power in to put power out. Perhaps he hasn't gotten to the whole conservation of energy thing yet. It also has nothing to do with the multi rail power supply but is rather a function of the regulation of the power supply which as mentioned above are two very different things.