Running Two JL 10W6's At 4 Ohms Help...

darita
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My installer tells me that if I run my two JL 10W6V2's at 1 ohm, I run the risk of dammage to my system if I make the mistake of accidentally cranking the volume. He strongly suggests, since I don't listen at high volumes to begin with, that the JL's be hooked up at 4 ohms to my AQ1200D amp. Doing so, he says, will give around 500W from the amp, to the two JL's.

Is there any validity to what he is saying? Keep in mind I do not compete and I am an average listener who doesn't need to rattle the bolts loose in my trunk. Before you ask, I got the JL's and AQ amp because I wanted quality gear, producing quality bass.

JL 10w6v2 D4

Free Air Resonance (Fs): 28.5 Hz

Electrical “Q” (Qes): 0.497

Mechanical “Q” (Qms): 8.458

Total Speaker “Q” (Qts): 0.469

Equivalent Compliance (Vas): 1.18 cu. ft. / 33.4 liters

One-Way, Linear Excursion (Xmax)*: 0.60 in. / 15.2 mm

Reference Efficiency (no): 0.149%

Efficiency (1W/1m)**: 83.7 dB SPL

Effective Piston Area (Sd): 51.4 sq. in. / 0.0332 sq. m.

DC Resistance (Re): 6.30 ohm***

Nominal Impedance (Znom): Dual 4 ohm

Thermal Power Handling (Pt): 600W

Driver Displacement: 0.068 cu. ft. / 1.9 liters

Net Weight: 14.4 lbs. / 6.4 kg

AQ 1200D

Frequency Response 20Hz—250Hz

Signal to Noise Ratio 100db

Low Pass Crossover 24db / Oct

Low Pass Crossover Range 20Hz—200Hz

Subsonic Crossover Range 10Hz—50Hz

Input Sensitivity 0.2V—8V

Output Master / Input Slave Connection Yes

Working Voltage 8V—16V

Efficiency @ 4 ohm 84%

Damping Factor Less than 150

Fuse Rating 40Amp X 3 (Linked 240 Amp)

Output Power 14.4V @ 1% THD 510X1 @ 4 ohm,

870X1 @ 2 ohm,

1200X1 @1 ohm

Output Power 14.4V @ 5% THD 1470X1 @ 1 ohm

 
tell him to **** off and run @ 1 ohm
So there's no validity to anything he is saying? At the time we spoke it made some sense to me that if we ran the amp at 1/2 it's max output, then even if speaker shorted, there wouldn't be a danger of frying anything. He said with my listening habbits, I probably wouldn't be pushing the amp anywhere near 500W anyways. Can someone please explain why this isn't the case so that I can understand it and relate it to him?

 
So there's no validity to anything he is saying? At the time we spoke it made some sense to me that if we ran the amp at 1/2 it's max output, then even if speaker shorted, there wouldn't be a danger of frying anything. He said with my listening habbits, I probably wouldn't be pushing the amp anywhere near 500W anyways. Can someone please explain why this isn't the case so that I can understand it and relate it to him?
If you realy don't think you'll want the extra output that you'll gain by going from 500 watts to 1200 (4db's so somewhat significant, with power compression I bet it's only 3dbs' tho) then running it at 4 ohms isn't a terrible idea. It will be easier on the amps and the sub. I'd try it at 4 ohms and if you end up turning your gains up pretty high or find the sub isn't loud enough, rewire it. If your really not into alot of extra bass then running it at 4 ohms may make level matching a bit easier anyway. However, you probably could have simply bought a smaller amp, although I do think those AQ's were on sale for a good price IIRC...

 
lol the guy was trying to save your subwoofers from blowing. Your equipment isn't the other peoples on the forum. I don't really know why the hell he would say to run them at 4 for in case you turned up your volume? He sounds like an idiot there, but you have to remember that Ohms is resistance. The less resistance you have to your subs, the louder they will play and the more distorted they will get ending up usually blowing. running your subs at 4 ohms will save them tremendously but will sacrifice some power. Plus you always need to break in your subs for about a week. So the guy kinda knew what he was talking about i guess, but I'd still call him an idiot, but thats just me. And hell if you want loud go loud and run them at 1 ohm

 
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darita

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