Rp 2000 keeps getting stuck in protect

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Lilriver420

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Alright so I had a rp 2000 on my evl 18 d4 wired at 2 ohms for about a year. Did fine until one day on the way home it started making the sub pop. Even without music itd do it as soon as the amp turned on. So I figured it just bit the dust and bought another since they're on sale. Hooked it up and it'll play for about 20 min then go into protect. First time it did it I unhooked it for 24 hrs to get it out of protect. While doing so I noticed my ground to the frame had formed some rust. So I fixed that and also shortened it about a foot or so. Hooked it back up and did the same thing after 20 min of playing. Amp doesn't get hot. I'm trying to rule out a few possible issues before hooking it back up. I noticed that it says working voltage is up to 14.4. My truck will charge at 14.8 when cold and eventually drop to 14.4. By the time the amp goes Into protect its at 14.4. Could the high voltage at first be causing a problem?
 
What kind of wire and what size? If it is CCA then dump it and get OFC or Welding wire. Should be using 1/0 wire for that amplifier. And if it is some cheapo brand even in OFC like Soundbox or something like that then get something else.

Those amplifiers are known to go boom at any second because of cheap components that Skarbage uses.
 
What kind of wire and what size? If it is CCA then dump it and get OFC or Welding wire. Should be using 1/0 wire for that amplifier. And if it is some cheapo brand even in OFC like Soundbox or something then get something else.

Those amplifiers are known to go boom at any second because of cheap components that Skarbage uses.
The power and ground wire is sky high 1/0 ofc. The power goes from amp to secondary agm battery then i got skar 1/0 ofc from secondary battery to main battery.
The ground wire is sky-high 1/0 also. It runs from amp to secondary battery then to the frame.
 
Sky High is good stuff idk about the Skar cable though idk anyone that uses it.

Hmmm I would recheck all connections make sure there is no corrosion, you said the ground point was rusted I would seal it with the battery post sealer they sell so you have a good connection. Also make sure neither of the batteries are weak with a bad cell. Check the voltage with a DMM at all connections including at the amplifier if you see a drop you found your weak point.

Should have a ANL fuse at the battery then another one before the amplifier as well. Has to be a weak connection someplace I would check all of them and go from there. All it takes is one bad connection to screw up the entire system/

Also make sure the gains are set properly as well.

I just know those amplifiers have a lot of issues, you hear about them going into protect all the time or some are catching fire.

GL!
 
Sky High is good stuff idk about the Skar cable though idk anyone that uses it.

Hmmm I would recheck all connections make sure there is no corrosion, you said the ground point was rusted I would seal it with the battery post sealer they sell so you have a good connection.

Should have a ANL fuse at the battery then another one before the amplifier as well. Has to be a weak connection someplace I would check all of them and go from there. All it takes is one bad connection to screw up the entire system

I just know those amplifiers have a lot of issues, you hear about them going into protect all the time or some are catching fire.

GL!
The skar definitely don't look as beefy as the sky high. But its close.

I moved the ground when I found the rust and shortened it by about a foot and made sure to clean the area real good then coated it with some clear paint.

I do have the anl fuse at battery. and I have a knu koncepts fused distribution block that I was gonna install in between the amps and secondary battery.

Whats a reliable amplifier that could take its place and not break bank?
 
Never used it and everyone I know uses the sealer like above. Never had an issue since I was a kid using that kind of stuff I mentioned when installing batteries on anything that needed a battery from jet skis, quads, dirt bikes and even our snowmobiles.

Idk maybe others here have used it with good success would be interesting to know if they have and what the success was. Still think I would DMM all the connections to see if there is a drop off someplace.

Maybe others have an idea on what to look for.
 
I plan on checking all the grounds today after work. Is it necessary to touch one of the probes to the front negative battery terminal to check the grounding points in the rear? Or is there somewhere else I can test from back there. And what range should the resistance be within? Ive found a few different ranges when searching. Want to be 100 percent sure.
 
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Lilriver420

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