Royal Excelene Question

giltyler

Senior VIP Member
I just got in 25 Ft of the Blue Royal Excelene 1/0 gauge and it looks thin compared to the clear jacketed Marine grade tinned copper 1/0 I also just got from another source.

Am I crazy and the thick jacket on the clear stuff throwing me off?

Or is the Excelene just fine

This is for my Big 3 and additional battery

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It's definitely the jacket. The marine stuff actually looks a bit smaller to me because it's got that asterisk/snowflake shape to the bundle.

Measure it with a ruler or place a coin on it to compare. The excelene is good stuff, I use it myself.

 
Thanks for the quick replies

For my terminations what works best

I have access to a large pair of industial hex crimpers like you would use on big truck battery cables or I could solder with a torch

Once connectors are on I have thick adhesive lined heat shrink tubing to apply

 
Wut?
Rubber mallet with the hammer crimper???
Yeah, just personal choice. I prefer the mallet as it's more forgiving in the event that you miss... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/censored.gif.f9ad8e7c6db58c5530c5a0a20a3b5baf.gif

 
Thanks for the quick replies
For my terminations what works best

I have access to a large pair of industial hex crimpers like you would use on big truck battery cables or I could solder with a torch

Once connectors are on I have thick adhesive lined heat shrink tubing to apply
Whenever I tried soldering wire that big in the past it was always a charred mess. It worked, but it looked fugly. I think my issue was I was using CCA instead of copper.

Still, I've used a hammer crimper and mallet since then and I wouldn't have it any other way. They're snug; the terminations could probably support my weight.

If I had access to an industrial hex crimper I'd use that for sure. Shrink some tubing on then and you're golden. Since it's AWG wire a 1/0 ring would be a perfect fit. You can get both copper lugs and heat shrink tubing at Harbor Freight for cheap if you've got one of those near by, though it doesn't have fancy colors like the stuff some CA companies put out.

 
Yeah, just personal choice. I prefer the mallet as it's more forgiving in the event that you miss... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/censored.gif.f9ad8e7c6db58c5530c5a0a20a3b5baf.gif
No....

The rubber would absorb most of the shock.

You don't have to hold the hammer crimper with your hand anywhere near it. I put it on the concrete ground, put the wire in the lug, and swing

 
No....
The rubber would absorb most of the shock.

You don't have to hold the hammer crimper with your hand anywhere near it. I put it on the concrete ground, put the wire in the lug, and swing
It absorbs "some" of the shock. It still has plenty to provide enough impact for a cold weld.

 
How common is soldering this type of connection?

I just want to minimize or eliminate any corrosion like I got with the Big 3 on my last 04 Ram (used the crimping tool I mentioned)

I will be going to an AGM Northstar up front and those will not degass as much corrosive vapor as the wet battery on the old truck so that will help and I have adhesive heat shrink for the connections.

 
Both make a good connection when done right. I've seen wire pull out of lugs when not crimped tight enough. If you've got a hydraulic crimper, go that route, if not, solder. I wouldn't recommend hammer crimping. It'll still get the job done, but that would be my absolute last alternative, just to finish a project until I could come back to it and do it right.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

 
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