RIP 15" btl

imo that black burned area was not from someone else breaking the lead and re-soldering it. the soldering looks as from coming from the warehouse.i'm pretty sure that 3kw would cause it to burn up like that.

when i snapped a tinsel on my XXX recently the lead did not fray up like that but in the location that it did snap it left burn marks and about a quater inch was missing from the tinsel lenght. when i had posted my thread on CSO another person displayed pics of 2 leads snapping on his MT. both were in center lenght area of the lead and where frayed and burned up as bad as yours is. iirc he too was running power around what you are feeding your btl.
after impedance rise the sub was seeing closer to the range of 2-2.5kw range though. i find it hard to believe a sub that can handle 10kw until mechanical failure ensues, would have trouble keeping up to my kx2500 after impedance rise and all other factors. im DEFINITYLY not trying to deny the tinsels looks burnt. ive had my sx's take more abuse and more clipping than any sub ive ever used, and i have never seen my tinsels look like this. i dont know the whole history of the sub, all i know is that it was ran off of my kicker, a 1.7kw amp, and a memphis 4kw before that.

 
http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=121738&highlight=buy+tinsel+leads

has anyone ever tried this? post #7 is what im referring too. id rather just put completly new leads on instead of trying to fix the ones on there now.

I removed the dust capremoved the old leads

soldered the new leads to the VC wires

used epoxy to hold the connection in place on the cone and seal the hole

solder the other end of the lead to the binding post.

test the woofer

replce the dust cap

Be careful when you solder. The leads will wick up quickly with solder and become stiff. . .

Brian
 
power doesnt kill speakersamperage does //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
actually heat kills a speaker.... and power and amperage are directly proportional P = I x E...

 
Heat = power.
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/veryhappy.gif.fec4fed33b4a1279cf10bdd45a039dae.gif

What kills speakers is more average power over time.
how come you can run a jbl gti 6000 on a btl and have no issues with tinsels breaking at all? thats 6kw ya know //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
just solder it back on, or extend it some 12awg wire. That's how my 18" XXX came.
well i was looking for a response to the cutting the dust cap off and replacing the whole tinsel, versus cutting and soldering 50% of a new lead on there //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/blackeye.gif.66a1670f5aaf7f406e783a63e3387dc5.gif

like this:

I removed the dust capremoved the old leads

soldered the new leads to the VC wires

used epoxy to hold the connection in place on the cone and seal the hole

solder the other end of the lead to the binding post.

test the woofer

replce the dust cap

Be careful when you solder. The leads will wick up quickly with solder and become stiff. . .

Brian
obviously it can be done, but i think the guy competes and is much more familiar with speaker construction.

 
well i was looking for a response to the cutting the dust cap off and replacing the whole tinsel, versus cutting and soldering 50% of a new lead on there //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/blackeye.gif.66a1670f5aaf7f406e783a63e3387dc5.gif
like this:

obviously it can be done, but i think the guy competes and is much more familiar with speaker construction. im basically wondering how hard it is and whether its worth me ****ing up and having to buy a recone to try and get brand new tinsels on there.
I'd question why the one tinsel is much shorter.
 
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