Recreational/Mobile Sub

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Fresh101
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Hello Everyone, I have finished making a boom box to use it at the beach, pool, park and etc. The component speakers I use are Image Dynamics XS65 with a JL Audio HD600/4. I am using front channel 1 & 2 and would like to use Channel 3 & 4 for a sub on a separate box. The component speakers sound loud with lots of vocals and missing some little bass or thump. I need help with what subwoofer to use for this add on? JL Audio HD600/4 amp says, it will provide 300 RMS Watts on 3 & 4 channel bridged @ 4 or 8 Ohms. Please view the boom box image to get an idea of the size and what I am talking about.

NOTE: I would like it small but offering a good kick to sync with the component.

View attachment 26533697View attachment 26533698View attachment 26533699

THANKS IN ADVANCE

 
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I am in need of help and cant seem to get anyone to do that. Am I missing any other info that would make it easier to you guys to provide help? Thanks in advance

 
Thanks for the response, but do you mean "JL Audio Marine M10W5-SG-TB"? Would it be enough to feel it, I don't mean crazy bass but to sync with what the 6.5" is giving. I am telling you this 6.5" are pretty loud with lots of vocal but do not have any type of bass/thump. Thanks again

 
you arent in an enclosed room honestly i wouldnt even try any get bass without a room of some sort

but will it give you bass yes how much i dont know depends on alot of things

you have really high end highs so keeping up with them would require alot of bass

 
you arent in an enclosed room honestly i wouldnt even try any get bass without a room of some sort
but will it give you bass yes how much i dont know depends on alot of things

you have really high end highs so keeping up with them would require alot of bass
Yes I do understand. I can settle with something like a knocking dry bass. Something similar to what I have heard before on a 1 cabin pickup truck back seat, not much thump but rather like a hit, bass is always better than dry hit.

 
How is that accomplished? What do you mean by sub being seed? Who can design something like this?
Sorry..S E A L E D..sealed..make a down fire add on to the box you have now,for like an 8/or ten,and seal it up all around except for an opening for the sound to come out like a port/slot port,giving the sub to have an enclosure, and something to reflect off of,giving you some BASS coming out of the ported area..very easy to add/make/do

 
Sorry..S E A L E D..sealed..make a down fire add on to the box you have now,for like an 8/or ten,and seal it up all around except for an opening for the sound to come out like a port/slot port,giving the sub to have an enclosure, and something to reflect off of,giving you some BASS coming out of the ported area..very easy to add/make/do
I am sorry to say, but did not understand your design or what you trying to accomplish. Who can design this for me, and provide cutouts and etc. I don't want to add it to my design I want the sub to be separate and plugged into a connection that I have integrated to the box from the amp bridged.

 
google Tapped Horn...you can increase spl output efficiency exponentially with 1 12in sub vs the normal direct radiating sub designs. You can build a tapped horn enclosure with 1 sheet of plywood for a 15" sub that would compare, or even surpass some of the best double 18 direct radiating cabs made...

Collaborative Tapped horn project - diyAudio

look up Bill Fitzmaurice and build a tuba with a 12" dayton from parts express. those dang things throw

 
google Tapped Horn...you can increase spl output efficiency exponentially with 1 12in sub vs the normal direct radiating sub designs. You can build a tapped horn enclosure with 1 sheet of plywood for a 15" sub that would compare, or even surpass some of the best double 18 direct radiating cabs made...
Collaborative Tapped horn project - diyAudio

look up Bill Fitzmaurice and build a tuba with a 12" dayton from parts express. those dang things throw
Thanks for your help Quackhead, I searched for him, but he has several Tuba none says 12" dayton, which one is it?

 
Thanks for your help Quackhead, I searched for him, but he has several Tuba none says 12" dayton, which one is it?
AutoTuba

Dayton Audio DCS255-4 10" Classic Subwoofer 4 Ohm 295-202

there are several designs and each require subs that fall within a narrow band of T/S perameters. The Auto Tuba can be made with the 10" mentioned...for cheap. Due to the design, rms input power can be expected to be almost double the sub's specs( as with most horn loaded designs)

just do a little homework and see if it is something you might want to try..I want to horn load a SA-8, lol.

 
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Fresh101

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