Recommend a budget setup here

accuab
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I'm trying to help my cousin out with his 98 eclipse. It had the infinity factory setup and apparently it is going out now. It originally had 4" highs on the dash, 6.75s in the front door, and 6X9s on the side of the rear seat. So the front and rear speaker will end up being 6.5s to fit the weird factory holes. And the front door speaker will probably have to be a shallow mount. They will probably be running off a head unit since he's trying to keep cost down. There's one p1 12 in the trunk for bass ( I know not great but it is staying). He's trying to keep the cost of the speakers around 150(less if possible). I figure I'll just put some okay coax in the rear for the filler and possibly some components up front but I'm not sure. I even though about trying the infinity reference with the pivoting tweeter in the center to direct the highs. He's not looking for competition level obviously. He just wants it to sound decent. Any ideas here?

 
I am confused by the 4inch highs. Is that a 4 inch coaxial speaker, large tweeter, or a wide-band midrange? Also, how deep can the door speaker be?

 
leave the rears alone if possible and get a 3 way components set .6.5" mid woofer,4" mid and tweets .if you are looking for budget stuff ,look at cadence

 
I've seen some component sets by cadence that looked decent. How is their sound quality. And on the 4number I'm not completely sure how it's crossed over in the amp. I just figured it was a high. I'm going off specs I've looked up. I haven't tore the car apart yet to see the actual mounting depths yet.

 
I've seen some component sets by cadence that looked decent. How is their sound quality. And on the 4number I'm not completely sure how it's crossed over in the amp. I just figured it was a high.
cadence components are great for the price. but autotek ap6.2c gets my vote for 40$....i just got some lol

 
they are ok too if you are looking for low power comps.i'd look at something that you can amp later down the road ,they would sound waaaayy better if you did

 
they are ok too if you are looking for low power comps.i'd look at something that you can amp later down the road ,they would sound waaaayy better if you did
i run 60 watts to each mid in my car up front. 40 to the rear

 
putting some real power to the doors makes all the diff in the world man. U should really consider finding a used 50x4 to put the comps and rear speakers on, shouldnt be more then 75bucks or so. I picked up a DB 90.4 of cl for 50

 
I agree with JoshC. Most of the good aftermarket speakers do not sound well until you give them some good amount of power. I can hear the difference even when a cheap $50-60 coaxial speaker set is moving from head unit power to an amplifier channel. Typically 50 to 80watts per side is pretty decent power, although some speakers could take over 100watts.

Regarding speakers, I see two options. One for the lazy and another for the more creative.

The lazy option: put a 2-way component speaker set with the 6.5 speaker in the door and tweeter in the dash.. use head unit power until you have an amplifier for these. There are plenty of threads about budget 2-way components here.

The creative option: if you car fits 4-inch coaxial speakers on the dash.. this could result in a very interesting setup.

Put a 4-inch coaxial speaker in the dash board location and let it play the entire spectrum down to like 200Hz. Use the door speaker strictly for mid bass duty, with a low pass crossover frequency of about 200Hz, and high pass frequency of around 60-80Hz. Ideally you need an amplifier with a bandpass capability. One amplifier that could work is PPI P900.4 because it has bandpass capability for at least one set of speakers. You could use two channels for the 4-inch coaxial speakers with high pass filter, and the other two channels for mid bass speakers with band pass settings I described. Regarding the rear speakers, put there whatever you like, use the stereo deck power and attenuate them. They're not very important.

For the door midbass drivers, you could just use Morel Maximo or Alpine Type-R coaxial speakers. They have reasonable mounting depth and are cheap. The woofers have good mid bass response. The tweeters... who cares.. the driver will be bandpassed.

The options for the 4-inch coaxial speaker are extremely limited but a couple of decent options exist, JBL P462 or Morel Maximo 4c. Both are sold under $100. If you can afford to spend more, HAT should release the 4 inch Mirus coaxial speaker some time soon (only 6 and 5 inch speaker is available on 12velectronics last time I checked, but the manual mentions 4 inch speaker as well). Why would this setup sound better than a conventional 2-way speaker? The conventional 2-way has a crossover frequency in the upper midrange, often screwing up imaging if the woofer and tweeter are placed far apart. With a single 4-inch coaxial speaker acting as a point source, you don't have this problem. If you have the ability to time align the left and right 4-inch speaker, this should result in an amazing imaging IMO.

 
I don't think he'll be putting an amp on them later. That's what I tried to convince him to do but he wasn't liking the money involved. If it was mine I'd be amping the front stage but it's not my car or my money. He has a 2 month old so he's watching his cash.

 
I see. IMO. My advise here is save the cash until he can afford better stuff. Having said that, I have heard from others that Kenwood Excelon speaker sound good on deck power. There is also a shallow mount model for those who require ultra low mounting depth.

 
cadence components are great for the price. but autotek ap6.2c gets my vote for 40$....i just got some lol
Which series are you referring to here? I found the at6.2c for 30 and the atx 6.2c for 35. I'm not familiar with the brand but I've learned on here that you can't always go by that.

 
I see. IMO. My advise here is save the cash until he can afford better stuff. Having said that, I have heard from others that Kenwood Excelon speaker sound good on deck power. There is also a shallow mount model for those who require ultra low mounting depth.
He has it to spend. He just won't. It's not his daily car. It's more of a project. So he just wants something that sounds decent without putting a lot of money into it. He would have been fine with the factory setup if it wasn't crapping out on him. He has enough into the car already with engine mods and appearance mods.

 
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accuab

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