RE Audio SRX12D4 vs. Infinity Reference 1262W vs <$75 - HELP!

[DoesDad 10+ year member]

Well the subs you were running (the Boss and the Hifi's) are garbage to begin with. And you were giving the Hifi's double the watts and the Boss are just completely worthless. So 1500 rms to either of those is going to blow them. Now you need 2 subs that can take 750 a piece if you continue to want to run that amp at 1 ohm. And forgive me if I'm wrong but aren't the Hifonics single 4 ohm? The lowest impedance on those would be 2 correct?

 

[glitchsta 10+ year member]

I'm getting the point now,thanks for your guys gain settings help for real, now just need to figure out what subs to get. From what I have seven the RE SRX are beast for $68. Think I saw someone saying 2 RE are better than the 2 CVRS...I am starting to wonder if 1 ****** sub like a SA would be better though. I was also thinking about saving for two IA subs that are 109 each

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

I'm getting the point now,thanks for your guys gain settings help for real, now just need to figure out what subs to get. From what I have seven the RE SRX are beast for $68. Think I saw someone saying 2 RE are better than the 2 CVRS...I am starting to wonder if 1 ****** sub like a SA would be better though.

I would go for a better quality single 15. Like the SSA icon.

 

[Danometal 10+ year member]

Advice:

NEVER turn up the bass boost on the amp. They are usually centered @ 45 hz, and ONLY boost around 45 hz. This sounds like absolute hell. Leave it turned all the way down, without exception, and set your gain like I detailed.

Also, I would advise you to shoot for no less than 1200 watts from that amp. I imagine you have a factory alternator. BTW, re-connect your battery negative to engine ground wire straight to under your alternator mounting bolt. That's where the current is trying to get to. The alt case IS the ground while the engine is running. No reason to ask the current to travel through the engine block to arrive at a spot that has such a convenient bolt to toss a ring terminal under.

Next, turn the sub level on your HU all the way up (NOT any bass boost/loud feature/EQ/etc.), and then set your gain with the DMM. The sub level is not a bass boost at all. It's an attenuator.

Lastly, I would suggest tuning waaaay lower than 39 hz. That's extremely high and detrimental to any hope of SQ from your sub stage.

Edit: if you're dead set on a pair of 12s for less than $150 total, I'll put a x2 on the CVRs. They don't sound very clean, but they get loud with 4-500 watts each. For better SQ and almost as loud, yes, go with those SRX subs, and set your amp to make 1000 clean watts. But, do consider a quality 15 incher or something. No need to be so limited.

 

[neo_styles 10+ year member]

[quote name='glitchsta']I'm getting the point now,thanks for your guys gain settings help for real, now just need to figure out what subs to get. From what I have seven the RE SRX are beast for $68. Think I saw someone saying 2 RE are better than the 2 CVRS...I am starting to wonder if 1 ****** sub like a SA would be better though.[/QUOTE]

Short answer: yes. The Sundown SA-12 would be a great choice. Just take the money left over since you're only getting 1 and have @double 07 ; build you a solid enclosure made for it. It'll sound like you have two 12s in the trunk and you'll be much happier. Just make sure you set the gains properly this time...

 

[SourDeez 10+ year member]

Id also suggest just getting a beast single sub. Easier to mess with since it seems like you dont really know what you're doing

 

[Danometal 10+ year member]

It just occurred to me. I can't believe I forgot to recommend a pair of JBL GTO 12s for your application. I would even consider running your amp @ 2 ohms which will do your electrical system a real solid, and it'll probably still make like 800-900 watts @ 2ohms. A pair of JBL GTO 12s with single 4 ohm coils will create a 2 ohm load and sound AMAZING (not in the 39 hz box though).

 

[cyn 10+ year member]

Do yourself a favor and follow the post above. Who ever said to turn the gain down and turn up the boost is a idiot. Those subs are not loud at all. Distortion is hard to hear in subs. Distortion is also louder then a clean signal. That's why you thought it was loud.

If that was on my comment... I said Subwoofer output and specified exactly that it is not the boost. .. as the subwoofer output controls the voltage from the HU to the Amp.. unless I worded it wrong, but I don't think I did.

 

[glitchsta 10+ year member]

So to set the subwoofer volume all the way up for example on my pioneer deck I go to the subwoofer 2 setting and select the low pass (I think it is what it is) to usually 80hz then it can go up to +6...do I set that to 4 and is that the attenuate setting u were talkin about?

 

[pinoy2o9 10+ year member]

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Huh?

 

[Danometal 10+ year member]

So to set the subwoofer volume all the way up for example on my pioneer deck I go to the subwoofer 2 setting and select the low pass (I think it is what it is) to usually 80hz then it can go up to +6...do I set that to 4 and is that the attenuate setting u were talkin about?

OK, I'm not sure if you HU is like mine whereas the sub level is simply an attenuator. Someone else familiar with your HU may need to chime in to be sure on that. A low pass of 80 is definitely a good starting point though.

BTW, I got curious about those Infinity subs when I saw they were only like $56 or something on sonicelectronix, so I modeled them in WinISD. Wow, they model great, better than the SRX. High efficiency and nice low end extension. I would definitely consider those for such an amazing deal. I would do a pair of single 4 ohm subs to present your amp with a 2 ohm load though.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_18916_Infinity-Reference-1260W.html

 

[glitchsta 10+ year member]

Thanks for your help deciding what to do, with so many options its hard for a novice like me to decide. Since I had just installed some 6.5" 62.9i kappa last night I went ahead and got those Infinity subs you thought may be pretty good, what box would you put 2 of those in if I got rid of my ported 39hz box? Also any recommendations on 2 more 6.5" for the rear doors? I was thinking to just put in 2 more infinity 629i and push the - 3db button on the tweeter, they run $66. Also found infinity 3.5" for $55 to replace the speakers in the dash. This would create a solid infinity speaker setup for budget prices.. What do u think? Go with infinity Kappa for rest of speakers? Maybe the cheaper reference series in rear? Anyways thanks for everyone's help, you guys are awesome!

 

[Danometal 10+ year member]

Thanks for your help deciding what to do, with so many options its hard for a novice like me to decide. Since I had just installed some 6.5" 62.9i kappa last night I went ahead and got those Infinity subs you thought may be pretty good, what box would you put 2 of those in if I got rid of my ported 39hz box? Also any recommendations on 2 more 6.5" for the rear doors? I was thinking to just put in 2 more infinity 629i and push the - 3db button on the tweeter, they run $66. Also found infinity 3.5" for $55 to replace the speakers in the dash. This would create a solid infinity speaker setup for budget prices.. What do u think? Go with infinity Kappa for rest of speakers? Maybe the cheaper reference series in rear? Anyways thanks for everyone's help, you guys are awesome!

Cool. I'm in the minority around here, as I love making lower powered subs shine vs. insanely high powered subs that require HO alternators and such, and I hate high peaky tuning. I built my first system in 1998, and I was hammering on a 300 watt Phoenix Gold amp back then. Point is, take that context into consideration when listening to my advice.

Are you able to build a box? If so, 2 cubes each tuned to 25-30 hz looks good for those subs. Or, if you prefer sealed, do 1.25 cubes each sub. Ported will outperform the sealed configuration by a significant margin though, but sealed takes up way less space.

Infinity speakers have a reputation for being very bright on the high end, even harsh, so if there are tweeter attenuators on those, definitely set them as low as possible. I would consider upgrading to amplified components soon though, as you'll be having some significant bass with a pair of those 12s. You won't be winning SPL comps or anything, but you'll be shaking for sure.

Did you get the single 4 ohm subs? Whatever the case may be (1 or 2 ohm load), I strongly advise you to set that amp to make no higher than 800-1000 watts tops at full tilt with those subs.

Peace.

 

[Danometal 10+ year member]

Also, you can put matching rear fill in you want. Just use your fader on the HU to keep most of the sound coming from up front so your sound stage stays ahead of you. You caught me at a strange time. I used to preach against rear fill, but just converted to attenuated, time delayed rear fill this very week after much experimentation, so you may see previous posts of mine suggesting against it.

 

[Danometal 10+ year member]

With another look, you may wanna stay with a 30 hz tune on those. My free version of WinISD doesn't show excursion plots. There a less chance of bottoming out with 30 tune probably.