RE Audio SRX12D4 vs. Infinity Reference 1262W vs <$75 - HELP!

glitchsta
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I have blown already the cheap Boss Phantom and HiFonics HFX12D4 subwoofers with my MB Quart 1500.D Monoblock amp. They sounded way good but after 5 minutes at high power those subs would just go up in smoke. I am assuming its from pumping roughly 1400watts to them. So with that being said I am in the market for 2 more subs. I do not want to spend more than $150 for both so which speakers would you buy? I have read great things about the RE Audio SRX and have found them for $68.99. A guy off craigslist claims the Infinity subs are better for the price as he is trying to get my HTS polk audio subwoofer. They are going for $61 each. I do not want to have to buy subwoofers again so I need something that will handle around 750Watt RMS at 1ohm. I did the big 4 upgrade and the amp has no problem pushing it. So if anyone can help me find a ******* subwoofer so I can have a great christmas installing my new subs please respond! As you can see I am into budget/best bang for the buck subs =p I am not rich and have limited money as I am selling my Polk PSW505 Subwoofer to get 2 new subs for the jeep. Thanks alot guys!

 
I don't think your blowing subs from overpowering them...you're probably clipping the living shit out of your signal. That being said, to find reliable and decent subs and get BOTH for under 150, I think you're living a pipe dream. Up your budget or go with one sub.

 
My amp controller should flash red when clipping and have never seen it flash just goes solid after smoking the sub. While playing it sounds really good no distortion, but the voice coils still fry. Those RE are supposed to handle 1500±...

 
My amp controller should flash red when clipping and have never seen it flash just goes solid after smoking the sub. While playing it sounds really good no distortion, but the voice coils still fry. Those RE are supposed to handle 1500±...
You are clipping the living crap out of them period..... and none of them subs will handle anything over 300-500watts ... buy a decent sub or get out of car audio period... learn to set your amp with a DMM or SMD meter... turn off bass boost.. turn down the gain...

 
My amp controller should flash red when clipping and have never seen it flash just goes solid after smoking the sub. While playing it sounds really good no distortion, but the voice coils still fry. Those RE are supposed to handle 1500±...
I will pretend that this was not a troll post //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

For $100 or under, SRX12 is one of the best value subwoofers IMO. In a sealed box (it needs a relatively compact ~1 to 1.2cu for perfect qtc), it will fill car cabin with very nice smooth musical lows and run happy on 200-500watts of power. Real life sensitivity is surprisingly good (to my ear), so an average listener could get away with powering it with a relatively weak amp. I assume it could get reasonably loud in a ported box without sounding like arse. However, it will not handle >1kwatt. Perhaps RE XXX will, but the RE SRX is rated for just 300watts. Given the low price of the thing, I'd consider living dangerously and run perhaps 500watts to it tops, as long as the music is not composed of entirely loud continuous synthetic bass (like rap, dubstep, etc) but that's that.

Ditto Infinity Ref. The rating is something like 250watts RMS, and xmax is just 12-13mm. They have even lower limits in terms of power handling and xmax. They seem to have more variable build quality, but when they work, they sound good if setup right.

If you want weapons grade subwoofer, consider an 2012 Alpine Type R or a Sundown SA-12.

 
OK. What exactly do you mean by clipping the amp? Sorry but I am fairly new to all this. I am thinking I am setting the gain to high for the speakers specs. I have been reading and what I think I need to do is find how many volts my speaker can handle then test the output of my amp with a digital multimeter, correct? I have been setting the amp by ear and while receiving no distortion it will be sounding great then boom, up in smoke. Can you guys recommend something for around $150? What would be best 2 RE SRX or 2 Infinity? Would 1 $150 sub be better than 2 of something like those? Reason being I am so budget because I don't live in the greatest of neighborhoods and fear it could be jacked some day. Thanks guys, could really use some advice.

 
Don't want to be jacked? Don't buy a popular sub. Consider something like the Dayton Titanic that isn't flashy and people will think is just a cheap POS. There's a sticky on this forum that contains the info for properly setting gains by DMM. Setting by ear is not foolproof, as you have now learned. Neither is a clipping indicator on your amp. Read up on the forum and make an informed decision when you buy.

Parts Express: the #1 source for audio, video & speaker building components

 
OK. What exactly do you mean by clipping the amp? Sorry but I am fairly new to all this. I am thinking I am setting the gain to high for the speakers specs. I have been reading and what I think I need to do is find how many volts my speaker can handle then test the output of my amp with a digital multimeter, correct? I have been setting the amp by ear and while receiving no distortion it will be sounding great then boom, up in smoke. Can you guys recommend something for around $150? What would be best 2 RE SRX or 2 Infinity? Would 1 $150 sub be better than 2 of something like those? Reason being I am so budget because I don't live in the greatest of neighborhoods and fear it could be jacked some day. Thanks guys, could really use some advice.
You set gain to match the output voltage of the head unit. There are sticky s in the amp section to read. You are smoking the subs.

 
Quick guide for you bro:

Say you want to set your amp to run at 1000 watts @ 1 ohm.

1). Take your target RMS wattage and multiply it times your target impedance. (1000 x 1 = 1000)

2). Square root the result (31.62)

3). Disconnect your sub speaker wires from the amp, and replace them with the leads of your DMM. Set the DMM to AC voltage.

4). Get a test tone on a CD or MP3 or something. 40-60 hz is best. Set it to play on repeat.

5). Turn your HU to the highest volume you'll be playing it at (for example, 30 out of 35 on an Alpine HU, etc). If you plan to boost any bass on your HU, set it now. I wouldn't boost any bass though, and turn any loudness setting OFF.

6). Turn your gain knob on the amp until the DMM reads at or close to 31.62 Volts.

7). Plug your sub back up and enjoy.

 
No need to be hating. I am dead serious here I just need a little help from the pros! This is my current setup btw. Starting from the engine I have hooked up 1/0 OFC power cable to an Optima yellowtop battery with two 1/0 grounds to the body and engine mount. I have a Pioneer 9400 head unit. (If anyone has advice on setting the Pioneer deck up such as subwoofer2 setting, says the Hz then volume +-. I usually set at 80 with 0 as the +-) Then 4gauge going to a 2farad capacitor, capacitor going to a MB Quart 1500Watt digital monoblock amp. I have the cap and amp sharing the same ground, could that be a problem? It's all setup clean I think as in the cables and connections. Then I have a ported boxtuned at 39Hz with 1.6ft per chamber for 2 12" subs. First subs were Boss Phantoms they were sounding awesome and way loud till one day it clipped and just 1 of the speakers fried. When it happened their was no distortion or sign the one was gonna go up in smoke. Sold the one good Boss and got the 2 hifonics. Read a thread on turning up the bass db and turning down gain on amp. Did that and they were sounding really good too, then both up in smoke no distortion or nothing, that's what I don't understand shouldn't I hear it messin up? This time both fried and that's where I am at now. I am also replacing the door speakers with infinity kappas which are hooked up to a stock infinity gold amp in a 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee. have a limited budget so I could use any and all advice to get this baby bumpin again thanks!

 
No need to be hating. I am dead serious here I just need a little help from the pros! This is my current setup btw. Starting from the engine I have hooked up 1/0 OFC power cable to an Optima yellowtop battery with two 1/0 grounds to the body and engine mount. I have a Pioneer 9400 head unit. (If anyone has advice on setting the Pioneer deck up such as subwoofer2 setting, says the Hz then volume +-. I usually set at 80 with 0 as the +-) Then 4gauge going to a 2farad capacitor, capacitor going to a MB Quart 1500Watt digital monoblock amp. I have the cap and amp sharing the same ground, could that be a problem? It's all setup clean I think as in the cables and connections. Then I have a ported boxtuned at 39Hz with 1.6ft per chamber for 2 12" subs. First subs were Boss Phantoms they were sounding awesome and way loud till one day it clipped and just 1 of the speakers fried. When it happened their was no distortion or sign the one was gonna go up in smoke. Sold the one good Boss and got the 2 hifonics. Read a thread on turning up the bass db and turning down gain on amp. Did that and they were sounding really good too, then both up in smoke no distortion or nothing, that's what I don't understand shouldn't I hear it messin up? This time both fried and that's where I am at now. I am also replacing the door speakers with infinity kappas which are hooked up to a stock infinity gold amp in a 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee. have a limited budget so I could use any and all advice to get this baby bumpin again thanks!
Do yourself a favor and follow the post above. Who ever said to turn the gain down and turn up the boost is a idiot. Those subs are not loud at all. Distortion is hard to hear in subs. Distortion is also louder then a clean signal. That's why you thought it was loud.

 
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glitchsta

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