Kellen128
Junior Member
First Ill try describing my problem, cause and solutions, I've experienced in complete detail...
This problem has been annoying me for a couple of months now. I can't pin point a specific cause but the output volume from my sub will suddenly drop. on a few occasions its gone 'flat' (can hear that sub is operating but not feel it). Numerous things can seem to trigger the 'flat' output,
Hitting a bump/pot hole hard, taking a turn a little too fast, listening music at a sustained high volume for a little while(40-60 min). At this point I also wonder if anything I listed is cause or I just think about this problem too much lol. The last piece in this puzzle is what usually (80%) restores the subs output. An auxiliary switch which I installed that controls a second set of H.I.D.s installed in my car.
Although I'm not sure exactly when this issue started exactly, something worth noting...
When I was replacing the OEM battery with the Optima Yellow top battery (still using) in my car, I attached my Battery Jump Box to the cables(to maintain radio & GPS settings, stations, etc.
Then(as embarrassed as I am to admit this) conversation distracted me when connecting new Yell top, & I placed cables on wrong terminal posts. i.e. - Placed NEG(-) wire w/ NEG(-) alligator clamp from Jumper Box ; on the POSITIVE battery post, and so of for NEG(-) battery post. It was a VERY BRIEF time these connections were made. As far as I know when the reversed polarity connections happened besides the sparks to scare & the Alternator Multi-Point 150amp "MAIN FUSE" blew.
INSTALL/HARDWARE SPECS :
4 GA. Power & Ground Wire
100 Amp Fuse
Optima Yellow Top
Kicker 650.4 Amp(Interior Speakers)
Kicker 500.1 Amp(Subwoofer)
12" Kicker L5
H.I.D. BALLASTS & AUX SWITCH
Ground = Direct wire from NEG(-) batt post to Ballast
Power = Direct wire from POS(+) batt post to Switch (then to Ballast)
This problem has been annoying me for a couple of months now. I can't pin point a specific cause but the output volume from my sub will suddenly drop. on a few occasions its gone 'flat' (can hear that sub is operating but not feel it). Numerous things can seem to trigger the 'flat' output,
Hitting a bump/pot hole hard, taking a turn a little too fast, listening music at a sustained high volume for a little while(40-60 min). At this point I also wonder if anything I listed is cause or I just think about this problem too much lol. The last piece in this puzzle is what usually (80%) restores the subs output. An auxiliary switch which I installed that controls a second set of H.I.D.s installed in my car.
Although I'm not sure exactly when this issue started exactly, something worth noting...
When I was replacing the OEM battery with the Optima Yellow top battery (still using) in my car, I attached my Battery Jump Box to the cables(to maintain radio & GPS settings, stations, etc.
Then(as embarrassed as I am to admit this) conversation distracted me when connecting new Yell top, & I placed cables on wrong terminal posts. i.e. - Placed NEG(-) wire w/ NEG(-) alligator clamp from Jumper Box ; on the POSITIVE battery post, and so of for NEG(-) battery post. It was a VERY BRIEF time these connections were made. As far as I know when the reversed polarity connections happened besides the sparks to scare & the Alternator Multi-Point 150amp "MAIN FUSE" blew.
INSTALL/HARDWARE SPECS :
4 GA. Power & Ground Wire
100 Amp Fuse
Optima Yellow Top
Kicker 650.4 Amp(Interior Speakers)
Kicker 500.1 Amp(Subwoofer)
12" Kicker L5
H.I.D. BALLASTS & AUX SWITCH
Ground = Direct wire from NEG(-) batt post to Ballast
Power = Direct wire from POS(+) batt post to Switch (then to Ballast)