Rainbow CS 265 profi Vanadium crossover issue

Zivman
10+ year member

Junior Member
I bought some profi's back in oct off ebay for a very good price.... I think a few others on the board bought some as well. I hadn't gotten a chance to install them till this week. I had looked them over upon receiving them and all looked good.

Now that I have them installed, one of the crossovers is causing a muffled/muted sounding setup. Wiring is verified and I have swapped with the other crossover and it resolves the issues. I have contacted the ebay seller, but doubt I will get a replacement out of him for various reasons. This I understand. - time frame, discounted price, not an authorized reseller, doesn't have stock.. etc, etc.

I need to figure out my options. I can get a replacement set of crossovers from another vendor to the tune of $150. I look at this as the worst case scenario. I am asking if anyone knows of a suitable replacement set that I could get that might be more affordable?

Thanks

 
I am not well versed in car audio. you have a link you could provide to help me?
my other components:

PDX-F4 amp

CDE-117 HU
Use the cross over in your Head Unit, to send the correct signal to the amp. Use ch 1&2 for the mids bandpass 80z to 3000hz and ch 3&4 for the tweets highpass 3000hz and up. 18db cut if possible. Let your sub amp take 80hz and down

 
Use the cross over in your Head Unit, to send the correct signal to the amp. Use ch 1&2 for the mids bandpass 80z to 3000hz and ch 3&4 for the tweets highpass 3000hz and up. 18db cut if possible. Let your sub amp take 80hz and down
I have the 3/4 channels bridged for my sub... so basically works with current hardware, but would need another amp for my sub. kind of what I expected.

is active 'that' much better? this is in a lancer evo that isn't the best acoustically. I know the speakers are good, and probably worthy of active, but when my loud @ss exhaust is booming, is it worth the investment in another amp to drive my sub to run the components active?

I appreciate the in input. gives me a very viable option.

edit:

sounds like I would need alpine imprint as well?

 
I have had both passive and active in many systems with many different configurations, and almost without exception ACTIVE is my preference.

I would highly suggest an additonal amp for your sub.

You have bought some awesome speakers, the PDX amplifiers although compact and decent sounding will not do them justice. That is not to say that I if in your situation would not use it, in fact exactly the opposite, as it is light, small and sound pretty good. Especially in light of the fact that your exterior noise is fairly high so the little neuances would be overwhelmed more than likely. I would most defiately use the 4 ch for the mids and highs, and get a 600-1000w amp for the sub.

If you want more info I would be happy to help. my email is kent @ spscayman.com

 
seller got back to me... says he will replace if I ship back to him on my dime... plenty fair deal. I am still going to look into active though. I have another car I might look into it for as well.

 
I would re solder all the connections on the X-over first. I had a similar issue with a Bravox X-over and that fixed my issue.

 
this is the x-over from my bravox, I resoldered all the points on the PCB

IMG_0475.jpg


 
this is the x-over from my bravox, I resoldered all the points on the PCB
thanks for the pic. considering the seller says he will replace I will leave it for now and get the replacement and hope it resolves the issue.

 
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Zivman

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