What part of Maine are you in? Can you make the Sanford show next weekend? Any pics of this box?
Looks like a true horn at least....most ppl here think a large flared port = horn.
From what I've gathered 1/4 wave (t-line) serves a whole different purpose than horn loading. What is your purpose of trying to do both at once? I've been very interested to try to pull off a true horn, but never got motivated enough to invest the wood, space, and time.
HAHA very true my friend! Even a 6th can utilize a flare, but it doesn't make it a bandpass "horn" lol. A true BPH is more so a TH if anything. Those are the only real horns in car audio in my eyes due to the need for surface area cutoff in all other designs being too large to fit.
I can do true horns all day long, but in vehicle loading, they do have higher efficiency than standard flares and BRs, BUT the output capability is limited almost ALWAYS. The main gained part of using horn effects in the vehicle is for a breeder range of high output capabilities, rather than one note wonders or less than 90dB 1w/1m output designs.
And yes, quarter wave is MUCH different than horn design. The two almost have nothing in common at all. BUT they do work well together if you DO in fact calculate the environment with the entire design. Without the room as a factor, neither are very effective in getting the most out of it.
Many people get lucky in this respect and get a few extra Hz spacing in their response, and feel they are performing better than a standard BR, but in fact it only does wonders mainly to the electrical at that point. To keep design simple for ANYONE, and I have actually seen a few designers in the past get away with this (kinda sad in respect to professionalism), is you can take a quarter wave@33Hz and get ANY design to perform very well in a vehicle of any size..........not optimal always, but good enough for most to notice a difference from a prefab. I am writing a blog about that also and why that is the case, not for quarter wave, but the 30-35Hz tuning effect. Gonna be very interesting if I can finish the slot vs aero blog first lol.
In order to get a true horn effect form any design, you have to account for LF cutoff at the lines surface area of the mouth. That is the key to getting the best coupling possible, and by doing that, you smooth output. Even a DD sub can get a flat response in a horn if it is done right lol.