quality amp for $300 or less?

Id get D4s and a used sq2200 and just have your gain turned down to around 1500rms that way you dont need to do electrical upgrades. And the anp stays happy because an amp that is turned down ans not stressed is a long lasting happy amp. Every car is different though so ypull have to actually get it and see what your voltage drop is. Hell you mught be lucky and have so little that you can turn your gain up and give those puppies 1k each
I concur with the above my specs are 750 each so of course the subs can run a little more. I have a Sound Qubed Q12200 and it's super. Better to have overhead than have to run your amp full tilt. Hifonics is fine for what it is there's one model that's better than the rest get that one and your fine if your tight on money. MAke sure to get Dual 4's

 
alrighty ill go with the d4's i never realized the difference until now, and ill check out the one everyone keeps saying, im willing to go a bit over but not much because im also buying a b2 amp, 4 speakers, the 2 subs, wire, altenator and new battery with my settlement check,

 
alrighty ill go with the d4's i never realized the difference until now, and ill check out the one everyone keeps saying, im willing to go a bit over but not much because im also buying a b2 amp, 4 speakers, the 2 subs, wire, altenator and new battery with my settlement check,
like i sais you might not even need the new battery and alt. what kind of car is this going in?

 
like i sais you might not even need the new battery and alt. what kind of car is this going in?
an 03 outback hatchback, and if thats the case i would be willing to spend more, but i was on those forums when i set up my begginer set up i have in it now (coax speakers and one pioneer 12) and they said id defiently need to do the big 3, alt, and battery

 
whats the watts your running right now? and whats your voltage drop at heaviest bass?

i would get the subs and amp first. hook them up and see what your voltage drop is at 1200w, then little by little turn it up untill you start getting really bad drop and then go from there.

 
to be honest, get the D2 version and get the JBL amp thats on sale, that JBL amp does power at 2 ohms and its very underrated along with having good sound quality. Power at 2 ohms is a lot less taxing on your vehicle's electrical system than 1 ohm.

 
to be honest, get the D2 version and get the JBL amp thats on sale, that JBL amp does power at 2 ohms and its very underrated along with having good sound quality. Power at 2 ohms is a lot less taxing on your vehicle's electrical system than 1 ohm.
i PMd him, i like the look of it and its pretty good price, and if i dont need to by that electrical upgrades i would be more than happy

 
^^ that's exactly what I would do if working on a budget. Those amps are greatly under rated. And are like tanks ... We have been running one at 1 ohm mono for 6 months now ..... and holy crap the power it puts down .....

And the seller is straight up .....

 
i PMd him, i like the look of it and its pretty good price, and if i dont need to by that electrical upgrades i would be more than happy
dont get me wrong, you'll still need the big 3 upgrade and if your under the hood battery is not up to par, you might need to switch that too, however, you'll want to get the amp in first to see if you even need it.

With the 1 ohm options, you'll definitely want the big 3, and under the hood battery upgrade, and if your alternator is 80 amps or under, you'll need even more electrical upgrades too.

 
whats the watts your running right now? and whats your voltage drop at heaviest bass?
i would get the subs and amp first. hook them up and see what your voltage drop is at 1200w, then little by little turn it up untill you start getting really bad drop and then go from there.
im running an 8 ohm load ( i know haha) into a Pa 900.2 bridged, so there is sooo little bass i never noticed drops in voltage, and the speakers are hooked to the HU. this system will be way more than i was running

 
dont get me wrong, you'll still need the big 3 upgrade and if your under the hood battery is not up to par, you might need to switch that too, however, you'll want to get the amp in first to see if you even need it.
With the 1 ohm options, you'll definitely want the big 3, and under the hood battery upgrade, and if your alternator is 80 amps or under, you'll need even more electrical upgrades too.
yeah the big 3 and a battery wouldnt be much of an issue cash wiise, its once those 400$ alts roll in haha, and off topicish is it bad im terrified to do the ground wire replacing? seems scary for some reason

 
yeah the big 3 and a battery wouldnt be much of an issue cash wiise, its once those 400$ alts roll in haha, and off topicish is it bad im terrified to do the ground wire replacing? seems scary for some reason
what do you mean ground wire replacing? just make sure you unplug negative from battery first and leave that unplugged youll be fine. but if your talking about big 3, you dont remove anything you just add wire to already existing charging system.

 
yeah the big 3 and a battery wouldnt be much of an issue cash wiise, its once those 400$ alts roll in haha, and off topicish is it bad im terrified to do the ground wire replacing? seems scary for some reason
Very understandable to someone who does not mess with car electricals to mcuh.

Just remember remove the battery negative first before unplugging or removing any electrical stuff in the vehicle.

Also the 12 volt source will not shpck you [emoji14], not unless you turn the vehicle on and touch the spark plug connectors.

Sent from my Z970 using Tapatalk

 
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