I think you linked the wrong onei had the old cadence z7000 ultra drive pushing my 2 12" type R's and i couldnt give them all the power of the amp @ 1500watts. 2000 watts for the type R is to much. i would shoot for a good 1000w or 1500W look at sundown audio, SAE-1500D - Sundown Audio Monoblock 1500W RMS Digital Class D Amplifier 400$ gonna be well worth it !!
I was looking into the Rockford Fosgate R1200-1D amp for the 1200-1300W range.i had the old cadence z7000 ultra drive pushing my 2 12" type R's and i couldnt give them all the power of the amp @ 1500watts. 2000 watts for the type R is to much. i would shoot for a good 1000w or 1500W look at sundown audio, SAE-1500D - Sundown Audio Monoblock 1500W RMS Digital Class D Amplifier 400$ gonna be well worth it !!
All of my door speakers are powered from the head unit, so minimal power draw there.Ct 1400.1 was great for me before I moved up to a bigger model. I only had a 140 amp alternator on my 4Runner but I did a big three and a dual battery setup. Factoring that you may be running a 4channel amp for your other speakers you may want to think total draw on your electrical, not just one amp. the ab vfl 4480.1 looks like a solid amp and great buy as well.
I second this. EVERYONE on facebook, even seasoned vets ran and hated the vfl hybrids. I'd run audio pipe apcls before even looking at vfl hybrid amps.I would recommend a VFL 100.1 or 120.1, not the hybrid but the full size VFL amps. The vfl100.1 I had clamped over [email protected], and it didn't even get warm. I've run everything from the a pair of 80.1's strapped up to the 500.1 and never had an issue. I bought all mine used, so there's no telling what some other idiot has put them through.
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I second this. EVERYONE on facebook, even seasoned vets ran and hated the vfl hybrids. I'd run audio pipe apcls before even looking at vfl hybrid amps.
Your question is a little vague in what your seeking... Do you want a multi channel amplifier, single sub woofer ???I need to find a good ~2000W amp for my two alpine type R's. As far as electricity is concerned, I have a 145A alternator, should I consider a HO or should I be safe with 2000W as long as its clean electricity?
You do know Orion got bought out by the same supplier as Lanzars lowest lines?Your question is a little vague in what your seeking... Do you want a multi channel amplifier, single sub woofer ???
This needs to be answered before you seek out amplifiers to add in.
But I want to share a move I did just updating my truck audio system (Old school Rockford Fosgate Power 1000 (0.05%THD At rated power) and had new TOPAS noise cancelation - and a separate Rockford Fosgate Bd1500.1 mono block amp for sub woofer bass, old school bass cube to pick 'where" you want you bass hit, how hard and the Q. JBL GTI 12" (2) ported and tuned low to 32.5hz.
Door speakers were separate diamond audio (never really liked thE sound - blew the tweeters over and over - until I purchased over rated tweeters).
I wanted to update.
I'll share this with you. I'm not a super car stereo enthusiast - people who install at shops may be able to tell you the how to and then some.
I know my electronics, amplifier design platform and what really makes sense when you look at specifications.
And lastly the price of ownership.
I kept my Pioneer head unit. It does video, interfaces with everything I need - no need to change. It's crystal clear.
Researched and purchased all Orion equipment.
- Cost of ownership, power, clarity, support and quality / "Overall build" of the guts of the parts...
Amplifiers built and designed not to blow up.
Speakers over built to protect and "cool" voice coils taking 2000watts RMS of bass.
Door speakers designed in a new way to handle power and provide super clarity.
I separated my amplifier purchases. From years of experience and trying many brands of amplifiers I have always gravitated back to Rockford Fosgate and Orion.
Right now Orion had a much, much larger selection to match your need by choice, need by amount of money you want to spend and need by audiophile.
I over selected my subwoofer amp HCCA 8000.1 mono with 0.5% THD 20hz - 250hz. (Very clean for class D amplifier. And with this much dynamic headroom I can turn DOWN the amp, never clip it and always have room to go, go, go if you want to crank on it (100 farad hybrid capacitor bank) and and additional battery all tucked in by the subwoofer.
Incredible hit and sound clarity for $1,000., $600, $500 custom FatBox tuned to 32.5hz.
Swapped out the Rockford Fosgate as its noise reducing TOPAS circuitry has slowly failed... And sending it to the OLD SCHOOL Rockford Fosgate "Repair Techs" did nothing. They couldn't figure it out and charged me full price to try - but did NOTHING. I'm sure these techs are excellent at what they do but their inability to fix the noise reduction left me with engine whine in one channel - and only with a ground loop cable RCA connection CABLE to isolate the input signal could I float the radio HEAD signal enough to have tolerable engine whine - but I'm upgrading now.
The HCCA 1500.2 is a class AB Amp so it's crystal clear 0.05% (10X cleaner than the class D Orion) ((( But the Orion 8000watt amp is specified at 0.5% THD Across its entire spectrum - that's 50% better than almost ALL other mono block class D amps.
The HCCA 1500.2 is oh so clean, overbuilt for quality and durability. On board protection of all kinds and 2016 technology. This amp gives me a crystal clear 500+ watts at each door. That fills up my HCCA Door Speakers - so I operate this at 75% as I run the HCCA 8000.1 sub amp at 75%.
Nothing runs hot, it all plays sound / reproduction to perfection - Orion doesn't cheat with their published specifications.
Published Specifications -
All the Orion amps, speakers and other products - measured and rated to actual standards, then reporting power in RMS (Average overall energy) AND under rate their amps - NO ONE - can complain that the amps don't push what they say.
THe only other manufactures who follow this TOTAL Test method and report real numbers...
Orion (always have)
Rockford Fosgate (always have)
Alpine, JBL, U.S. Amplifiers, - these well known names are back on board with how they measure and rate their output.
These other amps names like Lazar - rate their amps for peak energy send non useable data points that they just never reach. Probably looked great on the design table but real world - very badly stated performance.
In closing -
I absolutely love my switch amp by amp, speaker by speaker - and a custom "FatBox" tuned and ported box... I updated my entire system for less than $2000, and the quality improvements and no cross talk, engine whine - improved signal to noise ratio.
I recommend Orion. I'm using the HCCA line as its built to last and built to be abused and never fail.
The HCCA line takes the lead, but all of the product lines were revamped in 2015.
If you haven't tried them lately, try them again.
YOU WILL NOT BE DISAPPOINTED.
I've had a ton of different amps and it's hard to beat the VFL amps as far as price, reliability, and performance. The only complaint I've ever had with them is resale value. A lot of these guys want to buy cheap clip inducers like the audiopipe/planet audio/etc. I mean why pay $250 for a bad *** used amp when you can get a brand new one that puts out the same amount for the same price? Clean power costs more than dirty power.
On a side note I have the American bass 3k power that's rated 250a fuseing and full range capable as well as low pass. I have it at 1ohm and it doesn't even get warm. It's a solid amp.
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