PV Audio's Carpeting/Box Build Technique Tutorial *56k on hiatus*

Thank you, but a pv audio thread will never be stickied. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
Oh, I should also mention that Titebond I is okay to use, but I recommend Titebond II. It's only about 50 cents more and the benefits are worth it. I only used T1 because this box was small enough to not worry about the extra strength.

 
Thank you, but a pv audio thread will never be stickied. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
I'll add it to my favorites. Better then a sticky //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
How exactly do you make the paste?
Very simple, in fact, I usually just mix it up in my hand. Just take some of the wood dust, mix it with either thick gluewash, or water and wood glue. Gluewash = diluted wood glue, kinda like the shit they gave you in kindergarten for gluing construction paper. Anyway, mix it up and keep adding gluewash until it's a thick paste. It should be creamy and have strong peaks. It should also have a yellow tint to it. Otherwise, you need more glue. Honestly, it's very easy to figure out once you start it.

 
what about tite bond 3?
I rarely use T3. Not because it's bad, but because it's unnecessary. The strength benefits between T1 and T2 are worth 50 cents. The benefits between T2 and T3 are NOT worth the dollars extra. Not only that, but T3 takes forever to fully cure. The only times I use T3 is when I'm making a home audio enclosure or speaker with plywood and am going to stain or accentuate it. The dark line formed from where the glue cures looks like a part of the plywood.
 
Are you sure there is a strength difference in T2 vs T1? I was under the impression that the only difference was that T2 was waterproof.
From a technical standpoint? Yes there is. Will you notice it? No, most likely not. The main reason I don't much like T1 is because it dries too quick. Not that it sets fast or anything, but the excess becomes all flaky and nasty which is hard to sand off. In this pic here:


Note how the joint itself is still quite wet on the left, but even the tiniest excess is dried. What happens is it gets too smooth and doesn't sand off, you end up polishing it off instead. T2 shears away from the wood when it's still tacky which is far easier than something that dries within minutes. Personal preference of course, I've used basically all of the woodglues at lowes such as T(1,2,3), elmer's probond, elmer's carpenter, elmer's carpenter dark, loctite, and some old shit from my grandfather's garage. All work, but for the money, T2 and ProBond are the stand out winners for me.

 
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