I'll add it to my favorites. Better then a sticky //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gifThank you, but a pv audio thread will never be stickied. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
Very simple, in fact, I usually just mix it up in my hand. Just take some of the wood dust, mix it with either thick gluewash, or water and wood glue. Gluewash = diluted wood glue, kinda like the shit they gave you in kindergarten for gluing construction paper. Anyway, mix it up and keep adding gluewash until it's a thick paste. It should be creamy and have strong peaks. It should also have a yellow tint to it. Otherwise, you need more glue. Honestly, it's very easy to figure out once you start it.How exactly do you make the paste?
I rarely use T3. Not because it's bad, but because it's unnecessary. The strength benefits between T1 and T2 are worth 50 cents. The benefits between T2 and T3 are NOT worth the dollars extra. Not only that, but T3 takes forever to fully cure. The only times I use T3 is when I'm making a home audio enclosure or speaker with plywood and am going to stain or accentuate it. The dark line formed from where the glue cures looks like a part of the plywood.what about tite bond 3?
From a technical standpoint? Yes there is. Will you notice it? No, most likely not. The main reason I don't much like T1 is because it dries too quick. Not that it sets fast or anything, but the excess becomes all flaky and nasty which is hard to sand off. In this pic here:Are you sure there is a strength difference in T2 vs T1? I was under the impression that the only difference was that T2 was waterproof.
