Problems With my first box build --pics--

....No.
To threadstarter: stop worrying about it. You honestly haven't seen bad box construction until you've seen my first speakers (which I know someone will graciously post pictures of LOL). To make straight cuts easier with a circular saw, here's what I used to do:

1. Measure distance from edge of saw fence to the middle of the blade.

2. Very carefully, draw a line of that width along a piece of wood (MAKE SURE IT'S STRAIGHT, OR IT'S USELESS).

3. Cut this piece of wood using a fence to keep it straight.

4. This piece you just cut is now a guide to a perfect cut every time. Place it at the edge of every line you draw for your panels, and it'll cut the panel to the dimension you want every time. And even it if doesn't, the maximum you can be off is 1/16" of an inch (because you measured to the middle of the blade, not the edge), which is easily correctable.
can you elaborate on this method? kinda confused

 
are all the pieces of wood just leaning up against each other? because you said you didnt screw it down or glue it. maybe i missed something, but when you actually put it together shouldnt everything line up a little better?

 
heres the final product

my first box

100_4814.jpg


100_4817.jpg


 
....No.
To threadstarter: stop worrying about it. You honestly haven't seen bad box construction until you've seen my first speakers (which I know someone will graciously post pictures of LOL). To make straight cuts easier with a circular saw, here's what I used to do:

1. Measure distance from edge of saw fence to the middle of the blade.

2. Very carefully, draw a line of that width along a piece of wood (MAKE SURE IT'S STRAIGHT, OR IT'S USELESS).

3. Cut this piece of wood using a fence to keep it straight.

4. This piece you just cut is now a guide to a perfect cut every time. Place it at the edge of every line you draw for your panels, and it'll cut the panel to the dimension you want every time. And even it if doesn't, the maximum you can be off is 1/16" of an inch (because you measured to the middle of the blade, not the edge), which is easily correctable.
well thats how i do mines, not the best but how would you fix a gap like that w/o cutting up a new board?

 
well thats how i do mines, not the best but how would you fix a gap like that w/o cutting up a new board?
Titebond 2 has zero filling properties at all, and doesn't work well at all as a sealant unless it's attached to a bond. If you have a tight bond and spread woodglue across the joint to be sure, that's different. However, it it's not tightly bonded and you just throw some wood glue in there, it won't do too much of anything. Your gorilla glue is a better option, but it's disgusting to work with. I used the wood paste described earlier. It dries harder than a brick, and I've even used it to seal a 1/4" gap between port pieces (between the joint in the "L"), and it's still holding up today with no audible differences.
 
Activity
No one is currently typing a reply...
Old Thread: Please note, there have been no replies in this thread for over 3 years!
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.

About this thread

alexdbest2000

10+ year member
Senior VIP Member
Thread starter
alexdbest2000
Joined
Location
NY/Canada
Start date
Participants
Who Replied
Replies
42
Views
3,184
Last reply date
Last reply from
Eugenics
IMG_20260516_193114554_HDR.jpg

sherbanater

    May 16, 2026
  • 0
  • 0
IMG_20260516_192955471_HDR.jpg

sherbanater

    May 16, 2026
  • 0
  • 0

New threads

Top