can you elaborate on this method? kinda confused....No.
To threadstarter: stop worrying about it. You honestly haven't seen bad box construction until you've seen my first speakers (which I know someone will graciously post pictures of LOL). To make straight cuts easier with a circular saw, here's what I used to do:
1. Measure distance from edge of saw fence to the middle of the blade.
2. Very carefully, draw a line of that width along a piece of wood (MAKE SURE IT'S STRAIGHT, OR IT'S USELESS).
3. Cut this piece of wood using a fence to keep it straight.
4. This piece you just cut is now a guide to a perfect cut every time. Place it at the edge of every line you draw for your panels, and it'll cut the panel to the dimension you want every time. And even it if doesn't, the maximum you can be off is 1/16" of an inch (because you measured to the middle of the blade, not the edge), which is easily correctable.
well thats how i do mines, not the best but how would you fix a gap like that w/o cutting up a new board?....No.
To threadstarter: stop worrying about it. You honestly haven't seen bad box construction until you've seen my first speakers (which I know someone will graciously post pictures of LOL). To make straight cuts easier with a circular saw, here's what I used to do:
1. Measure distance from edge of saw fence to the middle of the blade.
2. Very carefully, draw a line of that width along a piece of wood (MAKE SURE IT'S STRAIGHT, OR IT'S USELESS).
3. Cut this piece of wood using a fence to keep it straight.
4. This piece you just cut is now a guide to a perfect cut every time. Place it at the edge of every line you draw for your panels, and it'll cut the panel to the dimension you want every time. And even it if doesn't, the maximum you can be off is 1/16" of an inch (because you measured to the middle of the blade, not the edge), which is easily correctable.
Titebond 2 has zero filling properties at all, and doesn't work well at all as a sealant unless it's attached to a bond. If you have a tight bond and spread woodglue across the joint to be sure, that's different. However, it it's not tightly bonded and you just throw some wood glue in there, it won't do too much of anything. Your gorilla glue is a better option, but it's disgusting to work with. I used the wood paste described earlier. It dries harder than a brick, and I've even used it to seal a 1/4" gap between port pieces (between the joint in the "L"), and it's still holding up today with no audible differences.well thats how i do mines, not the best but how would you fix a gap like that w/o cutting up a new board?